So I replaced my air filters today and my drivers side intake hose was wet with a brownish oily substance. I looked around for obvious culprit but found none. Looks like there is an aluminum brick there for brakes but it was shinny and clean the shock tower covers had what looked like built up of this substance. Doesn't leak onto the driveway and see no other signs anywhere else.
View 4 Replies04-V8 - little over 85k. Timing belt replaced recently.
There is a small oily leakage in the very front drivers side under the bumper. Its in front of the tire and as described under the bumper. I see some hoses in that area from underneath and a bit of oil-ly leakage from under the hood looking down into that same area.
So, what lurks behind the front bumper in front of the driver side front wheel? The oil leak seems like light oil, but ... are the oil cooler lines there?
Are the power steering lines there? Asking because I did recently have to fill the power steering reservoir from suddenly near dry (as far as I know) so that is a suspect. And yes, I filled it with the right stuff (pentosin).
So a few days ago, I decided to check the anti-freeze for adequacy. It was just replaced with the timing belt / water pump job; but I'm a pilot, and I'm accustomed to checking things for myself. Lo and behold, the hydrometer didn't even register. I thought it was stuck, but then I noticed the oily film, and got scared. And then as I investigated further, I got puzzled.
The car had been driven maybe 500 miles since the timing belt / water pump job, had not overheated, and had not lost any coolant. The level in the radiator was up to the cap. Also, there was no oil at all in the radiator (at least that I could detect), and the concentration tested fine. But there was oil in the reservoir -- but it didn't look like crankcase oil. It was clear -- like water -- and felt a bit thinner than crankcase oil. Also, the outlet at the bottom of the reservoir was clogged.
There also was some sealant in the reservoir (it looked like the BarsLeak tablets), but none that I could detect in the radiator. That in itself doesn't bother me because a lot of people (including me) routinely toss a few tablets in the coolant -- Saturn used to do it from the factory -- but it does suggest at least the possibility of a previous coolant leak that someone treated with BarsLeak.
At the moment, there's no evidence of coolant loss, no water in the exhaust, no water in the oil, and no oil in the radiator. I haven't done a compression test. I did change the plugs, and there were no obvious coolant deposits on them. They were carbon-fouled, but considering that the PCV valve was clogged and the mileage on the plugs, that didn't surprise me.
So what I'm postulating is that the previous owner's son (who was the primary driver of the car) mistakenly poured some sort of engine oil additive, power steering additive, or something else intended for use elsewhere, into the reservoir; and the mechanic who did the timing belt and water pump didn't notice it (which also kind of bothers me).
The fact that the power steering pump had a bit of chatter would tend to reinforce that hypothesis. I've been doing a gradual replacement of the power steering fluid, which seems to have quieted things down. It was black as tar when I started, so I probably should completely replace it. I may do that this coming weekend. In any case, I removed, cleaned, and unclogged the coolant reservoir, replaced it, refilled it, and everything seems fine. It's kind of baffling, though.
Noticed this during an inspection of the wife's '07. Oily bolt on end of transmission case in the driver side wheel well. Definitely a slow seep.... Will have the dealer take a look...
View 1 RepliesI've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
Ok just so I know what the dealer may do to fix it....I have a weird hissing sound coming from the driver side like a vacuum hose is off or something...but when I apply the brakes it goes away...I let go and it comes back...when I shut the car off as well it stays hissing until I hit the brakes again or it just quiets down... What this may be?
View 1 RepliesI have in the last 5000 miles had the timing belt changed and at same time the usual other item - water pump, Thermostat etc,, Engine has 155k on it.
I have had overheating issues that I thought was related to the viscous fan clutch and replaced that (it was bad) and the issue of overheating now just take longer to happen.
I have bled the coolant system and have good hot air out with heater - engine warms up within 1/2 mile of house. I am running right now Prestome all color antifreeze as it was overheating and and loosing liquid as a result.
In trouble shooting yesterday I find that when it now overheats it is leaking at the heater hose on drivers side of heater box. I have repositioned hose and clamp after bleeding it and it still overheats and with pressure build up leaks at this location - this happens when moving or when stationary.
With heat coming from heater box (both hoses get hot) and both fans working would this be bad thermostat? (again have heat) or a bad water pump?
Yesterday, I saw a hose, ~1/2 ID hanging down from under the engine on the drivers side. Tried moving it around to see where it would reach to so I could find where it disconnected from to no avail. The end that's still connected appears to be going toward the firewall, but without living the truck I can't see where exactly it's going to. It appeared dry until I lifted and then a small amount reddish fluid dripped out. Fluid levels that I could check appeared normal. The truck seems to be running fine, engine smooth, no trans slipping, breaks normally. 2007 explorer limited 4x4 v8... What this hose might be?
View 3 RepliesWhat this might be? (see pic)....
View 14 RepliesI have a CEL. I don't have any special tools or experience but am not afraid to try something.
View 8 RepliesMy Ex did this to me a few months ago 2 days in a row and then didn't do it again until now...
Battery is almost new and alternator charges fine but every once in a while when it sits it drains the battery. I can hear an audible click and rumble coming from the front end behind the drivers side headlight under the air intake.
I've got a boost coming but I'd like to be able to start her up again to go to work later.
195,000 miles on a 1.8T I removed the intake hose that connects the inter cooler to the throttle body and noticed a bit of oil inside the hose. I was guessing it may have come from the turbo due to a leaky seal, but this is strictly a guess. The car doesn't consume too much oil (maybe a quart or less between changes). What is the life expectancy for a turbo?
View 2 RepliesAfter installing my cai, I couldn't find where to put this breather hose, I'm lost to if I need it and where to put it...
View 2 RepliesI was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
View 4 RepliesWhen my 2001 Echo is in drive and I am stopped, the air filter box and that whole assembly as well as the intake hose shakes and vibrates and makes a noise. It doesn't happen in neutral or park or when I start driving. Also, when I was looking at this, I could see that when the car is put into or out of gear the engine moves slightly, is this normal?
View 13 RepliesI just replaced the engine in my F--150 with one from a van that had only 60K miles on it. It still runs rough and misses. Not as bad as the earlier engine that had dropped a valve. While trying to find the problem, I moved a large vacuum? hose at the rear of the engine maybe 1 inch diameter and it nearly fell off the barb at the back It is also connected at the other end to some type of small metal can. When I pulled on this it fell off and the engine died.
Also need the smaller 5/8 in diameter hose at front of air intake tube. I need a size or a pert number for this hose as I cannot crawl back onto the motor very many times due to a spinal problem. I would like to get this hose and then get under the firewall only one time. I am having issues with this truck, bought is used at auction running rough. Replaced engine with one that was supposed to be a good one, but it runs rough again..
I need to add that New platinum [plugs were installed and the coils were off the old engine that had maybe 50 miles on them and were from NAPA. I only hope htis hose is my problem. However I cannot find any part number or anything on it...
If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
View 3 RepliesSo I have a 2000 Echo with about 129k miles on it. I parked it in my driveway for the winter to drive my SUV in the snow (I live in Wisconsin).
After a couple months of the bite of the gas mileage difference I dug her out and noticed that the drivers side rear wheel was locked up. I presumed it was simply due to it sitting in snow for a long while. So I jacked up the rear, popped the tire off and WHAM, a rusted through pipe falls flat on the floor of my garage.
I trace it back to a port right behind the fuel intake - tho not the main intake line itself. I then find its other half, still connected via rubber tubing to a black hub of sorts.
Here are some pictures with a vision of what I am talking about:
The entire hose in two pieces:
The port where the hose was connected by the fuel intake:
The port on the hub where the rubber sided other half of the hose connects:
The hose pieces side by side on the trunk of the car for scale:
I have been getting all sorts of weird messages and warnings for a few weeks now, and have previously posted about them. I have a service appointment next Monday.
Today I decided to check my driver's side battery and found only 11.6 volts. I am charging it as we speak. It will be interesting to see if it holds a charge. If not, then the battery is definitely bad.
The question becomes whether the bad battery is the only bad item, or whether it is the power management controller also.
Yesterday I took the car out to do some Christmas shopping and after driving it for about 20mins I heard this whine coming from the driver side (outside). I turned off the music and air vents and noticed as I slowed down the noise got worse and as I increased my speed the noise some what dissipated.
Also the noised seemed to match the pitch of the engine almost like when the radio gets engine interference from some of the older cars. So towed the car to the dealership and they are telling me that I have a leaking power steering hose which does not make much sense to me due to the noise and lack of steering fluid under the car.
I just bought this one and it came with no owners manual so I can't figure out how to open the box.
View 3 Replies