Phaeton :: Driver Side Window Gets Half Way Up And Hear A Loud Snap?
Nov 17, 2011
Had window on drivers side all the way down. Went to push button to raise. Window gets gets half way up and I hear a loud snap! I continue to push button and raised window all the way up. Now I hear wind and whistle sound. Does not seem to be as tight? Afraid to lower window as it may not raise again... Does this sound like the typical window regulator failure? My warranty coverage "excludes " window regulators, go figure. Their brochure says window motors and regulators covered. The actual signed contract excludes regulators? 2004 V8......
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How to reset the window limit on a mk7 golf? I installed power folding mirrors with new modules the passenger side window goes up and down fine but the driver side will only go up half way then does back down like its hitting something.
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My driver's side window will only go down half way. The problem began when a small accident damaged my driver's side door check (the small bar that keeps the door from swinging open too wide). The check was bent, and the window stopped going all the way down. When I removed the check, the window worked fine. Now I've replaced the check. The door works fine, but the window problem has returned.
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When pulling down my drivers window and then pulling it up it gets stuck half way up. I have to push the window hard toward the outside while pressing the button to get it back up. If I am pulling down the window and stop before this point, I have no problem pulling it up again.
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I have a 2003 Montana (same as Venture). The driver side window will get stuck half way down and the motor will grind. You can then run it back up, but when closed it will grind again.
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Pulled up to subway today and hit the switch to put the window down for my order. paid the lady got my order hit the switch but the window went half way up and stopped! drove off and tried to make it go down or up, nothing! tried again in a couple of minutes then it went up. I haven't done anything since. Am I looking at a huge repair? Never had a problem before.
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Driving over the weekend, I randomly noticed that there was a large crack 3/4 of the way across the rear driver's side window. What caused it (there appears to be an impact mark on the outside and I guess it just spread from there). This morning, the crack was completely across the window.
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Cracked rear window from bottom center (on the driver's side just past the Dole light). Dealer says that they would have to sub out the install. That worries me a little, given antennae & other items hooked up on/near rear window.
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I have a 2003 GMC Sierra with 146,000 miles. Yesterday morning when I lowered the driver side window, I heard a loud pop. After which the window would not go up when I pulled on the up button. However, when I pushed the DOWN button the window went back up. This was to me a good thing. It stayed up until this morning when while trying the passenger window I accidentally touched the driver side switch It dropped a little then slowly went down about a half inch as I drove. Luckily when I pressed the down button it went back up again. I've Benn told it is the window regulator.
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I have been getting a sound like a loud cpu fan on the driver's side of the console wall, just below the ignition port. Any other NAR cars have this problem? It will go away after awhile but will turn back on again.
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I drive an '04 with about 86k. Shortly after I hit 85k i got into an accident that required both drivers side doors and the drivers window to be replaced. 2 weeks ago I noticed that my driver's window was excessively loud going up and slower to rise than the other windows. Upon closer inspection it seems that the rubber surround at the front part of the window gets bunched up requiring the motor to work harder to get the window all the way up. I fear that it is only a short time before the motor fails and the window becomes useless.
I plan to go back to the body shop and have them take a look at it. I am not fully sure if they caused the problem, my common sense tells me that the drivers window ought to be the first to fail, seeing as it gets used the most (garage tickets, drive throughs etc. But I am hesitant to replace the motor if the repairs were done improperly causing it to burn out). How much the motor runs? I am guessing that this will not be a cheap repair, but my hope is that the body shop will at least do the labor for free seeing as they replaced the window and the door and I now have this problem. I have to take the car back anyways, they replaced the fender and it is loose at the top.
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With summer heat, i usually push my front windows down. but today after finishing lunch, started the car,push the window down, the passenger window is not working (luckily it's in closed pos). i still can hear the motor running up or down as i pushed.
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My drivers side window slows or gets stuck half way up. If I grab the window and pull up as the motor is running it will make it past. Sometimes it slows then makes it past on its own. Does that sound like a bad regulator or a weak motor?
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I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
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I just picked the car up at the dealer, after having had the new window regulator installed.
They were just closing service and I didn't think to test the window before I left the lot, but on the way home I put the window down... nice and smooth and quiet.
Then I put it up and there was a loud thunk at the top of the travel. I tried to capture it in the attached video but it isn't nearly as "bass-y" as it is in person. Crappy mic on the phone I guess.
My other three windows have a very soft sound as they reach the top of the travel, nothing like this thunk. What it might indicate?
Video here: [URL] ....
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I was putting my rear driver window up yesterday, and I hear a crunching noise.....it struggled, but I was able to get it back up. What should I do? I'm thinking it's the regulator, or a clip came off of the window, etc.
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Just got my 2012 Prius from the body shop. Got hit in the rear where the starting battery is.
Had window control problems since battery was replaced.
Problem is that the driver-side rear window can't be controlled by the driver. It works fine with its own control but not from up front. The light on that windows button is not lit like the others. When pressed it lights and when released it blinks a few times and goes out. I unhooked the starting batter to try and reset things with no luck.
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I had a couple of questions about a 2006 Lexus GS300.
The reason I came here is because her GS300 has 3 issues and being this thing is one massive computer... I figured I'd ask you about them and make sure I wasn't getting in over my head in case the repair costs would be substantial.
1st issue: When sitting in the front passenger seat or either back seat with a window, the window goes down fine when using that switch. When sitting in the drivers seat, the only window the driver can put down is the drivers window. The passenger front/rear and drivers rear does not work. Is this a known issue? How to resolve?
2nd issue: When listening to music, regardless of output (xm, fm, cd, etc), audio is only coming out of the passenger side of the car. There is nothing coming out of any speaker on the drivers side. Possible amp issue?
3rd issue: When trying to operate the moonroof, nothing is done automatically. My mother tells me she used to hit open, and the moonroof would open automatically, same with closing. Now, you have to hold the button down manually to get it to the location you want and have to play with the button to get it to shut properly.
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1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L MT 263,500 miles 2WD
I often, but not always, hear a loud "snap" when turning left, usually when executing a 90 degree turn.
It's been happening over the past few weeks. Seems to be coming from mid-vehicle but hard to be sure from the driver's seat.
No other symptoms. No vibration, no steering wheel shake, no noise while driving. I don't feel anything when I hear it.
I originally thought it may be a U-joint, but now that I found it happens only when turning left, that seems less likely?
It's a loud snap, could it be an engine or transmission mount?
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Finally took the car ('13 GT) back to the dealer to have them deal with this noise. Every time I turn the car left or right, I get a loud click or snap noise from the right front. My first thought was it was something in the suspension loading and unloading as the weight shifts from left to right. So, brought it in at the 59,000km mark, the looked at it, drove it around and finally said they re-torqued both axle nuts as they were loose (didn't even get into THAT one)
Soon as I drove it away, it was still doing it. I lived with it for the last 6,000km and finally got sick and tired of it so I took it back. Same deal, but this time they say the right axle shaft is shot.
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