Phaeton :: Driver Side Door Frame Damage?
Nov 5, 2015
This morning I was sadly involved in an accident. I was struck on the driver's door, with some damage to the surrounding areas. There is also damage to the inner door frame
I am worried the affected area is part of the frame and will prove difficult or impossible to repair. Is this the case? How would this sort of damage be repaired?
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I bought my 2011 Santa Fe about 6 weeks ago and only have just over 1000km on the odometer. I have an appointment next week to have the dealer look at my car because I hear a lot of noises. First, I hear a constant squeaking sound in the driver's side window/door frame. I think I have this figured out - it's the weather stripping/seal on the door - perhaps the door isn't fitting tightly. I'm not too worried about that sound. I'm also hearing a rattling sound in the rear end, usually when I go over bumps. It sounds like something underneath the car is loose and is banging every time I hit a bump. It's not a loud rattling noise, but enough to be noticed for sure. Also, I've heard a rattling noise on the front passenger's side door somewhere but I can't seem to pinpoint where exactly. Again, it's like something is loose and rattles when I hit a bump. Should I be concerned? I'm a bit nervous because the last car I bought turned out to be a complete lemon and I bought the Santa Fe to rid myself of worry - I haven't been successful with that so far. I have gone through the interior to make sure nothing's loose and rolling around and making the noises, I've repositioned all the seat belt tensioners etc - nothing makes these noises go away.
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Learning how to operate my newly acquired 2004 V8 Phaeton...not too mention convincing me to purchase one. I think I even like its occassional quirkiness, such as TPMS faults - its like it has a personality.
Anyway, I have not found an answer to a problem which started yesterday:
- Rear driver-side door won't operate using outside handle
- Confirmed its unlocked, can open from inside & child locks (not that those should affect it) are off
- No problem opening passenger side rear door
- I think I hear a mechanism in the door moving when I pull the outside handle on the working side, don't hear it on the non-working door
I believe there is a cable which is attached to the door handle which may have come loose. I do have a VW Real Driver Warranty (10 Years)...and although door handles are specifically excluded, I don't think this is likely a "door handle" problem, but rather something inside the door which has broken.
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Cannot open drivers side door with remote or key?, i have to climb in through passenger side?, only just back from garage yesterday?
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Trunk release switch on drivers door does not open trunk. Remote and key will open trunk. Sounds like a motor is trying to close the trunk when it is being closed, but does not pull it shut ?
1. I did pull on the switch
2. Gas door switch works fine
3. It is a standard trunk (not powered)
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I get a little bit of wind noise from the drivers door. Upon inspection, I noticed that the drivers door sticks out a little bit more than the passenger door when it is closed. In other words, the passenger door window from is flush with the adjacent trim but the drivers window from is maybe 1.5 mm out. I suspect this may be just enough to cause the slight wind noise.
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I've noticed some wind noise that seems to be coming from somewhere around my drivers door. It has probably been there for a while, but my previous tires were so damn noisy I couldn't hear it. Replaced tires a few weeks ago (much quieter tires!) and now I notice it again. The door doesn't leak water. Maybe it's normal.
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If I unlock the car with the fob - two clicks - all doors unlock. However the rear drivers side passenger door always needs two pulls on the handle to open it. Both passenger side doors open from the outside on first pull, as does the drivers door, but the back door on the passenger side needs two pulls.
As far as I can tell all doors behave the same inside - one pull to open, unless the car is centrally locked, in which case two pulls.
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I have a minor squeak opening and closing the driver's door. Any recommendation for the best lubricant to use on the hinges? Is WD-40 acceptable or are there better alternatives?
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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My driver's side door's soft close function has stopped working. All other doors work fine. I have run it through multiple start cycles since this discovery and no change. What to look for or how to fix this?
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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Would be very interested in any fixes known for an annoying, recurring drivers side window/upper door frame rattle in my 2008 ES 350, occurs when going over bumps, uneven roads, or sometimes with just normal driving. Intermittent, but very common. Have had dealer address this and they replaced the "glass run" on that side, but rattle returned within a few days. Will try some silicon spray to dampen it, but seems like there is some flaw when the window is full up to door frame that produces this ticking rattle- can eliminate it by lowering the window an inch so that it does not insert into door frame.
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What caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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I have a 2005 Phaeton V8. 69k miles...not one issue until today when she was about to recieve her saturday bath-
I got into the car to back out into the drive- and noticed that the door didn't close all the way- I had to pull the door to get it closed. I went around assessing to see if the other doors would close- and they all do just fine. The power trunk works properly- Just this drivers door- So after she got her bath- shes been garaged and I dont want to drive her risking somethings wrong.
Is there a fuse to pull to reset the pump? Do I dare disconnect the battery (I've never had to do that on this car yet). Just wanting to avoid a trip to the dealer-
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I'm at a body shop now to pick up my 2004 V8 after fixing some scrapes from getting gently rear ended. When they pulled the car around, the front of the car was almost on the ground while the back looked very high. I'm concerned that the air ride is damaged. It's possible, if not likely, that they lifted the car without using jack mode. Can that be the cause of suspension damage?
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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With my Phaeton has the power convenient closing was working on all four doors (the feature that automatically closes the door if you close it almost all the way.) Now it is working only 3. The driver's door no longer has power convenient closing. What the possible cause or remedy is?
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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