After replacement of the transmission, there is a distinct smell of gas/petrol, on starting the car after it has sat overnight. Other work done at the same time was replacement of all coils and plugs and air filters.
The car has 69K miles and is a V8. The dealer has checked fuel lines etc and found nothing. The car is in excellent condition and had no issues before the transmission failed.
I have a sc430 and I had to change the Ecu, I've had it mapped so the keys all match and now it wants to start but it just doesn't seem to want to kick in , it turns over then just shuts down, there is a smell of petrol so I'm assuming its getting trough , I just wondered if there is any other reason for it not to start ...
View 13 RepliesI have had my Prius for a few weeks now and have noticed a very strong smell of petrol when I have the vents open to heat the car (without AC). It seems to only happen when the fan is on and vents open. What could cause this and should I be concerned?
View 19 RepliesI've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
Our 1994 Suburu Legacy runs on Petrol or LPG. For some unknown reason, there is a strong petrol smell in the car. When this happens, the car will eventually stop and the engine stops. There is power, but the engine will not start. Several minutes and many attempts later later, it starts. What may be happening?
View 2 RepliesFilled up with gas recently and afterward I have a distinct gas smell in the cabin and trunk. I see the 2011 Sonata has an issue with this. Apparently a pcv valve hose problem. The car is a GL. I did not overfill the tank and the cap is on tight. Has the pcv hose issue been fixed with the 2012 model? Are there other possible issues that could cause this? Plan to call the dealer tomorrow.
View 4 RepliesI have a distinct coolant smell inside my Jeep (2009, 60k miles). I popped the hood and couldn't spot any leaks nor was there any fluid underneath the vehicle. I took it into a mechanic and they smelled the same thing and put the coolant system under pressure (as well as doing a visual inspection), and could not find any leaks nor was there any evidence of fluid by the vents. They also noted that my coolant levels were still full and I had not added anything to the car. The current theory is a pinhole leak in the heater core (the smell is definitely worse after the car has been driven a bit).
I have had one suggestion to add Bar's Stop Leak to the radiator, but the mechanic said this was a Bad Idea (his argument being that since there was no visible leak in the system it would likely just gum things up). Since the vehicle seems to be otherwise operating fine, I'm hesitant to replace the heater core, but there's a good chance it's still under warranty, so I could go that route.
So, could it be something other than the heater core? Should I have that replaced or would the Stop Leak be a good idea?
I have recently purchased a 2003 Subaru Baja Sport, the car of my dreams! I purchased the car in NC and drove it where I live in SC which is over 250 miles. The car smelled of petroleum based fluid and/or cleaner. I just thought the dealership cleaned the engine or oil may have been spilled during maintenance. A few weeks later, I had it in the dealership and they checked out. The head gaskets were replaced and the problem was to be solved…Nope!
Every time the car is driven on a long trip and the engine/transmission gets hot the smell returns and there are other problems as well. The car will shutter from start through the gear change to 2nd (it’s a manual 5-speed). It also has a “bumping” sound coming from the from the front wheel area during a sharp turn at low speeds, again only after a long trip.
I am clueless to what the issue could be and my dealership/mechanic cannot determine the cause either because of the necessary drive time to get the car to present the issues.
I have an '05 Chrysler 300C AWD with approximately 65k miles. The transmission makes a distinct clunking sound when downshifting and I am seeking advice about the cause and solution. For example, I live on a hill and when I slow down at the bottom of the hill the car will downshift and there is a clunking sound. This happens frequently when I am slowing down. In the past year the transmission quit 3x, in all cases the car would start and operate fine but would not go into gear - it would idle but nothing would happen when I put it in gear. The first two times the dealer kept the car for several days and made various adjustments and the car eventually worked again. The third time the Torque Converter was replaced, but the clunking noise continues.
View 3 RepliesDriving a few spirited miles across the moors today to pay dutiful respect to aged parents... as you do on Sundays.. probably fairly stung by inappropriate remarks on this forum about my driving, ESP and V6s.... when after having left a couple of midly sporty looking bicycles for dead on the Blackburn ring road I smelled a rather appalling smell... a sort of sweet hot oil smell. Seemed to be getting worse. However power delivery seemed OK still - no strange behaviour from the box.. or steering come to that.
Parked up carefully on my parents pristine drive... spent about 90 minutes with them sorting out their iPAD woes again.. and as I left scrutinized the drive for signs of any fluid that might be associated with the smell. But the drive was as clean as when I arrived. Came home - and gave it as much welly on the A56 road in the sky as fog and Sunday morons would allow... smell still strong, but performance pretty much what I'm used to.... ESP light not on at all of course.....
Get home (about 30 minute drive)... and start looking under the bonnet and under the car for the source of the depressing smell. Nothing. So.. maybe I'll scan it and see if anything's complaining. Went in the back to get the laptop (which I'd taken to my parents so that I'd have proper access to the interweb rather than via the silly iPAD thingy)... and found that a bottle of Miller's Diesel Ecomax -which some fool had persuaded me to try - was stuck under the driver's seat just where the heater for the rear passenger's feet discharges. The bottle was swolen and at about 30C... with a miasma of Ecomax emanating from the neck.
So, fairly relieved... and I've stopped looking. Moral - don't put bottles of anything on the back passenger floor unless you turn off the AC in the back!
From time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.
90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.
If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.
After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.
This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.
Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.
I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.
Driving along last night and suddenly slightly oily smell in cabin. Then notice oil pressure drops from normal 82 ish to about 25. Recovers to about 70 by time I get to Waitrose (about ten mins). Park up and do shopping. Move car and check for oil patch - none found. Drive home and pressure still lower than usual - but recovers to just under normal. No warning lights - open oil filler cap and seems to be some in there. No oil leak found.
View 6 RepliesAfter I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
My Phaeton had the typical burning oil smell so I suspected the Camshaft cover gasket. However when I looked at the service history the gaskets were only just changed in 2012.
When I inspected the car closely I found the RH EGR vacuum line was disconnected (pipe cracked through).
Unlike the Audi A8, the VW 4.2 looks like it has 2 EGR valves, and not one. So I reconnected it, and so far, the burning smell is now gone!!
I am a newbie on the VW 4.2 but is a disconnected EGR a likely cause of oil leaks? (ie positive crankcase pressure). It makes me wonder if all the people whom are changing their cam cover gaskets, should be checking their PCV/EGR's instead??
I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
View 1 RepliesMy car smells like some plastic part is burning inside. The heat works just fine but for some reason i am getting this horrible smell. How to get to air filter of the fan.
View 5 RepliesYesterday I started up my Phaeton after it had been sitting for about almost a week. When it turned over it had a rough idle and also a fuel smell, as I drove it the idle went away. However I have never had this happen before and the fuel smell concerned me.
View 4 Replies2002 Santa Fe with 140K. Superbly well maintained.
I notice . Looked all around....then on the radiator toward the top where the metal meets the plastic. I noticed wetness across the entire radiator. Thought it may be coming from the upper hose and spreading across....Replaced the upper hose....Not the problem.
Still has anti freeze seeping across the radiator / plastic area. Does the mean the entire radiator needs replacing? I have searched the forums and seems like no one had replaced a radiator on the Santa.
Is the radiator breaking down. Oh, it's NOT the water pump.
I had my passenger side window replaced, and the car now has a strong smell of adhesive. I have left the windows open for a week, and the smell just gets stronger.
View 4 RepliesHow to replace the windshield washer nozzle? If it makes a difference it's the driver side one. It's clogged and I'd like to try and soak it in some stuff to dissolve the clog and/or replace it myself. The dealer was going to charge me ~$150 to do this and trying to see if I can do it myself.
View 5 RepliesI got the dreaded "stop, too low" warning this morning on my 04. It went up when I started the car, so I figured it must be a leak and not the compressor. Well I just tried starting it again and now it won't go up at all.
I recall seeing a Phaeton for sale online where the owner replaced the air suspension with coilovers. I've been searching online for any info on such a conversion, but I haven't found anything.