Phaeton :: Could Engine Run With Ethanol
Aug 12, 2008
I'm the owner of a phaeton W12, i want to known if the engine can run with ethanol and with a kit. What are the risks for the fuel pumps, injection pump, injectors.
View 18 RepliesI'm the owner of a phaeton W12, i want to known if the engine can run with ethanol and with a kit. What are the risks for the fuel pumps, injection pump, injectors.
View 18 RepliesOn my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
I've recently had the chance to buy some 'real gas' on a few fill-ups, Canadian gas without ethanol. The graphic shows that I'm getting about 50 mpg on regular E10, but about 58 mpg on the no-ethanol gas. Since E0 has only about 4% less energy than regular E10, getting 15% better mileage doesn't make sense purely from thermodynamics.
Does the Prius computer might be programmed for E0, and therefore possibly doesn't do as well on E10? And if so, can we re-program the computer?
I drive a Supercrew F150 5.4L XLT 02 since 9 years, I put a Fuelflex module since 8 years, since some months I Misfire on cylinder #3 (P0303) but only during towing with Ethanol (over 2000/2500 rpm), when I drive on gas all is fine, I changed Flexfuel modul, plugs, coils, header gasket, without any positive results, it's very curious to have the problem only with ethanol (E85), I can drive very hard and at high speed with just the truck, but with a trailer as soon as I ask more power i lose one cylinder, with misfire...but like I said only on ethanol? I know engine needs more ethanol than gas, so I go check fuel pressure and maybe try to change fuel injector...
View 8 RepliesSo i bought a 2005 Bentley continental gt and I have been told many times by different mechanics and owners that this car is almost like the VW Phaeton. Ever since i got the car, it had this problem so i don't know what caused it and how it can be fixed but basically all of my electronic components such as lights, windows, key fob remote, etc only work when the car's engine is actually turned on and running. As soon as i turn the engine off i hear a click in the trunk area and everything shuts off at the same time. It seems like some kind of safety cut off or something. It happens almost everytime and i have to close the doors manually with the key. Both batteries are brand new.
View 24 RepliesNo indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
I have, a very unusual problem, My Phaeton stalls sometimes on low RPM, and errors on VCDS SAE P0087.
After a stall, I start up again and drive normally without a error on my dashboard, until another stall occurs, they are occurring always on low RPM, more frequently when car is turning ( intersections are a b...ch ). The things I've done so far to get rid of the problem is:
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Checked if there is aluminium in Fuel Pump Filter ( there wasn't ) - cleaned it anyways
btw. there was no indication of aluminium in any of the parts that were replaced, so I think it's safe to assume fuel pump is ok.
After the replacement of Fuel pressure regulator I've driven with my friend with attached VCDS and gathered logs of pressure in fuel rail:
This part of log is during attempted right turn, when engine died.
I'll replace Fuel Pressure Sensor tomorrow, but don't expect much...
I went to check the oil today. For the second time the end of the dip stick is broken off.
View 24 RepliesOur Phaeton has a had a problem with the radar unit and was the electronics where repaired. According to the repair people it now has to we reactivated in the car but we are not managing to achieve this with VCDS. We have tried the following codes:
Code:
Select 01 (Engine Electronics)Security Access -> Function 11 (Codierung II) ACC = Adaptive Cruise ControlCCS = Cruise Control System (Normaler Tempomat) ACC/CCS-Deactivation Code: 16167 (first deactivate, than continue)ACC-Activation Code: 13647 (Possible also 13377 or 30903)CCS-Activation Code: 11463
The codes are accepted by VCDS, but nothing changes.
Also, additionally the warning for engine fault has gone on. Is it possible to disable this warning? We tried code 30903 but it isn't accepted.
[Code] ....
I have a 3.0 TDI Phaeton 2006.
One day when i tried to start it on morning it's spinning long time but cannot start. I connected a VAS and there was one ECU error of camshaft position sensor - signal not real. 2nd different thing that I have only communication with 3 modules - ECU, gearbox and dashboard.
I bought a new sensor and change it. No positive results - the same error. I decided to make new wires connection direct to the ECU so i take new wires and connect sensor directly to the ECU. It's also didn't take any effect - the same error.
After days in which I want to burn this car I decided to change shaft speed sensor (RPM sensor) - i took one from my mum's car - it is the same (A6).. There is no error on ECU but it doesn't start also. But now engine trying to start in different way - only 2-3 rotation of engine and stops (before changing shaft speed sensor it was spinning a lot times when trying to start).
I also turn off immo from ECU by BDM100 to be sure that there is no immo problem. How I can find reason why there is no connection with lot of modules ? I checked fuses in 3 places (in trunk, next to the driver legs, and next to ECU). Engine cannot start without communication with airbags but how to find problem with communication.
And the one small thing: before changing sensors when car was dead some injectors was clicking but rarely and not synchronized. After changing sensors (and no errors now) there isn't any noise (clicking) of injectors.
This evening I experienced a hiccup when starting the Phaeton. The engine would turn over, but it would then shut off as if there was not enough gas. After two tries I gave it some gas immediately after ignition and it solved the problem. The car had not been sitting for long as I had just returned from a trip in it not an hour before. I recall having this problem once before several months ago, but nothing ever became of it.
View 1 RepliesNeed to identify this noise? Don't be too alarmed by the engine tick. I had the recorder up close to the engine.
View 3 RepliesDipped the oil today... and the dipstick came out completely dry. Put it back in again and it came out showing oil halfway between min and max.
View 2 RepliesI decided to change my Phaeton (2006 3.0 tdi) oil myself. All done as in the workshop manual with no trouble.
However, a couple of miles down the road "Stop Engine - Low Oil pressure" appeared in red. I checked the oil level, which was perfect, so called out my local VW garage. They took it for an hour, then told me they didn't know what the problem was, said that oil was getting to the top of the engine no problem, and that the car was fine to drive. They recommended I see another dealer about 30 miles away, and they had no problem me driving there. Oh, and they charged me for an hour labour.
When I got home I checked the oil I used (bought from a motor factor in the UK using my vin number) - it was Miller long life 5-30, with VW code 504.00. I've just looked that up, and it says that 504.00 is for petrol engines, and 507.00 is what Diesel engines need.
So, it seems I have the wrong oil. But would 5-30 504.00 cause low oil pressure that 5-30 507.00 would fix? If so, what damage could I have done driving 20 odd miles with the wrong oil?
After just about 20min on the highway, the engine temperature has reached 115 C to 120 C that's about 230F to 250F. Also the oil temp was unusual high. After 20min I filled up a little oil and tried to check the coolant water. Unfortunately the time I took to let the cool down the engine was not enough so some coolant water spilled out of the car. So I can't say, whether there was enough water or not. Afterwords, the engine temperature still wasn't doing well at all. The oil temp was OK.
There is currently also coming a strange razing load noise from the front of the engine. The engine is a V8, 2004
My 05 V8 Phaeton radiator cooling fan is not running and hence engine overheats. The AC cooling fan works alright, it comes on when i switch on the AC. I have verified that the actual radiator cooling fan works by plugging it to the ac cooling fan socket. I have checked fuses and all ok. there are no dealers near me. I have also gone through all the cooling fan threads and all of them are for constant running fans, none for a non running fan.
View 4 RepliesI have an 06 phaeton which runs perfectly but driving to work the picture of a yellow engine came on and does not go out. I tried turning off the engine and restarting it but still it remains lit, steady. the owners manual does not state what this is other than a "malfunction indicator".
View 4 RepliesMy 09 w12 is leaking a clear oil from the back of the engine which is dripping off the Right hand side of the exhaust where it appears from the engine bay ?
it's not water , as the oil spots on my drive are not drying out ? it is also has no odour , so what is it ?? , the car has 16K miles and its bugging me.
My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
The Phaeton is really a creature of its own. It is not a year since I bought my 2003 W12 and have had it towed three times since. The latest bother is that the engine doesn't fire on all cylinders. The ignition coils have now been replaced on all cylinders, and first it seemed to be fixed but after some thousand kilometers it misfired again. As always on a Sunday on a long trip... the warning lights go on and this time I just drove along despite what the manual says. It wobbled along and after maybe 10 kilometers it get fired on all cylinders again. The warning light is still on though.
Now after having drove the car a couple of shorter runs the ignition works fine and now the warning light, today, wasn't on. So is all well and dandy now? Another little bother, the back door, behind the drivers door, that one cannot be opened. Sometimes it opens sometimes not. No matter how many times you press the "open" button on the remote control, it doesn't open. No matter if you press the button above the inside handle, it doen't open. So, out of the blue, it opens ok! How about that one????
My 3.0 TDI has developed an oil seepage between the air intake damper and the turbo air intake. The oil comes from the blow-by gases hose that connects the cyclonic oil separator to the air intake damper. There is a "hat" type gasket that slides into the air intake damper, prior to fitting it to the turbo air intake, so I bought an OEM replacement gasket and fitted it last weekend. I have just checked it and there is still oil seeping from the very same location. Now I wonder if there might be an issue with the cyclonic oil separator itself...
View 6 Replies