I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
View 4 Replies-We have a 99 Buick with 38,000 miles. At 30,000 miles the car overheated and we had to find a mechanic in unfamiliar area. He told us car was unsafe to drive unless we had new radiator system installed (water pump, radiator flush, pressure test, radiator system flush, radiator kit (premium), anti-freeze - 2 gallons, lower and upper radiator hoses) at a cost of almost $1200.
FYI the car is in Florida full time - under cover.
Recently the "low coolant" signal has come on and after checking with a local mechanic, he said the manifold gasket was leaking and it could be fixed for about $600. We are reluctant to spend that money unless we can feel somewhat certain that the main problem is solved. We understand that at some point there was a class action suit against GM because of problems with Dex-Cool which is the required coolant for GM cars. In the meantime, we have been adding plain water to the reserve tank but are very concerned that this may cause additional damage. There is never any leakage under the car.
Several years ago my '63 Valiant had some overheating issues, which I resolved with some stop-leak. This weekend, feeling neglectful, I washed her, added a quart of oil, and added some premixed coolant. That evening when I drove it, it overheated. I know, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but now what do I do? It's obviously lost coolant. I'm leaning towards putting more stop leak and more coolant, but I don't want to make things worse. I'd rather not have to replace the radiator right now, but I will if I have to.
View 4 RepliesToday was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
I work for for a non-profic organization. We have a 95 nissan 2.4L pickup, and one of the guys drove a fair distance while overheating because of a coolant leak. He did not quite make if back before the truck died. At first I offered to do the work on it thinking maybe it just needed a new head gasket and some machining on the head surface. But I did a compression test and 2 cylinders were around 30 and the other 2 around 40psi. Also there is coolant in the oil.
Given that the pressure is so low do you think there is much of a chance that the head is not completely warped and needs to be replaced. Is it unlikely that there would be damage to the bottom of the engine, cylinder walls, pistons or warped block? I know one cannot say for sure until the head is removed but I would like to avoid wasting the time because if the truck needs a new head or worse they are gonna just junk it.
I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
View 6 RepliesMy '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
View 7 RepliesTraveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
View 6 RepliesThis morning when I went to start my car i got a Service Now message. Once the car was started it went off and didn't come back on. I have no warning lights present on the dash what so ever. I've never seen this before.
What does it mean? I have an 04 W12 with 60,120 miles. BTW I've had all service work done for the 60,000 service. Car is beyond up to date with it's service.
I'm getting a service now message on my display but no other warnings. Why this would be coming on?
View 7 RepliesI've been thinking about leaving the wipers in "service" position overnight when it's snowing or freezing rain. I'm wondering if I can go and start the engine and get the defroster going - or - will the wipers try to go back to their "parked" position as soon as I turn on the ignition? Not a fun thing if they are frozen to the glass...
View 15 RepliesI have a 2004 W8 Passat wagon. I just went over 60,000 miles and was wondering how to reset the service warning for coolant servicing.
View 1 RepliesGot my radiator replaced at 63000 miles with new coolant. Did my first coolant test today at 70000 miles and the coolant is showing it is contaminated. I have been testing the coolant myself with the Rotund test kit and this is the first time it has come back as contaminated. Tested it twice once from degas bottle and once from the bottom drain. Same result both times. Coincidence that it is after service?
View 3 RepliesWoke to some coolant under the car...
so I got under the car and found that the red leak (I did not touch it when I saw it .. I was in a hurry... ) was not atf after all... it is just the reddish VW coolant.... you can see it does look like ATF, but it is indeed sweet coolant
there was a significant marking at the bottom of the bell housing.
Seems almost impossible that it originated from inside there but there are no other traces that I could see.
Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
View 7 RepliesNoticed about a gallon of coolant on my floor the last 4 days. Got it pressure tested and was told bad water pump. Had it changed with timing belt and tensioners. Got home, next day, same thing. Coolant everywhere. Also, do I really need to put G12++ in as coolant? I've been using it but the shop put some green stuff in it.
I have a 2005, V8, Phaeton with 181,000 miles. Also, my car overheated, got the coolant too hot warning, 270 on gauge, let it sit 5 minutes, no problem afterwards. Should the thermostat have been changed also?
Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?