Phaeton :: Coolant Overheat Warning Came On
May 30, 2012
Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
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On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
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On starting today I had an alarm to check coolant. Never had this before - and the expansion tank was dry. No visible signs of loss - Oil seems fine and free from contaminant.. so I guess not the head gasket!
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I have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
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While driving my 04 w12 a few months ago i noticed a "stutter" or brief jerk while driving. the next morning i had a "coolant level" warning. i took the car to a mechanic i use who diagnosed the problem as a broken coolant line involving the transmission cooler, with the result that coolant migrated to the atf. indication was that the tranny was toast, along with the atf cooler. I authorized a repair (not inexpensive), keeping costs down by installing a used tranny. since the car was "fixed" i still got a "jerk" usually in fourth gear, sometimes in third. i took the car back and was told that the tranny was flushed numerous times and the transmission was reflashed. i picked the car up yesterday, but i still get the "jerks", now usually in third gear.
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I was driving (about 800 km), when suddenly I realised that some strange smell is going out from my car's boot. When I checked, I found out that Vehicle Power Supply Battery was hot, making some strange noise (like hissing), plus I saw that the battery exterior wall (towards to the trunk) was waved like it was overheated. But because all these stuff happened in the middle of my way, I could do nothing, so I continued my driving.
After 300 km I felt huge impact, I realized that I lost my 6th and 5th gears, after some time I realized that I lost 4th gear. That I stoped just in case not to break something. When I tried to start the engine, It didn't started, so I understand that all problems was besause Vehicle Power Supply Battery was drained.
As I mentioned before, all these stuff was in the middle of highway, therefore I took the wires (crocodile), connected Starter battery with Vehicle Power Supply Battery and managed to start the car's engine and get to the City of Prague. I took out the Vehicle Power Supply Battery, opened battery cells and found out that all of them were dry, no acid at all.
My question is - could it be that the Vehicle Power Supply Battery was overcharged (overheated) because of some mistake of battery charge controller and all acid just go away in some way?
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When I got the STOP check coolant level message on my 2002 Passat glx. I pulled over as soon as I could and then I began to over heat. The coolant level was good, actually it was a little high. The check engine light also was blinking. I replaced my water pump about 70K miles ago.
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1999 Camaro V6 125K miles. Occasionally overheats. No noticeable coolant leak. Was pressure tested and passed. Mechanic suggested new radiator cap. New cap installed and was fine for a while then overheated again and problem seems to have intensified. Will a compression test reveal anything regarding this problem?
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Last summer I had a catastrophic experience on a family vacation when my wife's 2012 Prius overheated on the highway and lost power. The dealer that we limped into kept it for a week and couldn't find any concrete problem, except to say that since it was a salvage vehicle rebuilt without Toyota brand parts, that all of the cooling system would need to be replaced. I waited until we barely made it home and had my mechanic replace the inverter pump.
Since then the "hybrid system overheat" warning light comes on regularly, especially when driving up a long climb, even in moderate weather. There are no codes. Is it possible that there is air in the lines? My mechanic says that it feels like the inverter pump is working, tho I don't see turbulence in ready mode. A link to bleeding the air?
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I was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. The other day I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark (if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year. I also had to refill my degas bottle up to the fill line. Took 2 gallons of Ford VC-3-B Coolant and water mix. After a short run to verify the problem, it took another 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of mix. But, no overheating. No signs of leaks anywhere. Just a strong scent of coolant on shutdown outside the truck. Pressure tested the cap, I don't have a way of testing the system pressure.
Data from Autoenginuity:
Engine Oil temp 195-202 Degrees
Engine Coolant #1: 188.2-199.5 Degrees.
Engine Coolant #2: 125.5-129.9 Degrees.
I have the full CSV file.
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I posted recently because my '05 Touareg had been in twice for a "coolant overheating" error when the car was driven less than three minutes after a long cold start. They replaced the main computer and I had it back for a week and everything was fine. This morning, the same error occured. We took it in. When my husband drove it to the dealer, the warning went away after several minutes. They said that the error never logged on the computer and there's nothing wrong.
One person had responded last time with the sensor issue but got it resolved. I am really concerned about the possible problem that they can't seem to fix. They seem to be ok with it.
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This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
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Woke to some coolant under the car...
so I got under the car and found that the red leak (I did not touch it when I saw it .. I was in a hurry... ) was not atf after all... it is just the reddish VW coolant.... you can see it does look like ATF, but it is indeed sweet coolant
there was a significant marking at the bottom of the bell housing.
Seems almost impossible that it originated from inside there but there are no other traces that I could see.
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Just returned from dealer in rental car because my otherwise "perfect" car would not start after I came back from a shopping binge at my local Costco. Unlocked the car fine, put key in ignition, put foot on brake and cranked -Nothing. All lights are working on dash, windows operate, everything seems fine other than no start. Never experienced anything like it. No warning, no unusual activity. Dealer says it is either ignition switch or starter.
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Yesterday the dreaded "car too low" warning appeared. I got out, saw the front end was low and could hear (i think) the sound of air hissing. had it towed to the dealer and am cursing myself for no extended warranty. Sure hope it's only one strut (tow driver said both front sides were low) and that vw will pick up the tab for non failing struts and the controller.
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I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
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Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
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I'm getting an erroneous intermittent "Flat Tyre" warning on one of the 4 corners. Usually only happens after about 10-15 minutes of highway driving. I haven't had the problem on city driving. Pressure is good on the "faulty" corner. After resetting the tire pressures and the TPMS relearning, everything is then fine again . . . only to return the next time I'm on the highway.
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Our Phaeton has a had a problem with the radar unit and was the electronics where repaired. According to the repair people it now has to we reactivated in the car but we are not managing to achieve this with VCDS. We have tried the following codes:
Code:
Select 01 (Engine Electronics)Security Access -> Function 11 (Codierung II) ACC = Adaptive Cruise ControlCCS = Cruise Control System (Normaler Tempomat) ACC/CCS-Deactivation Code: 16167 (first deactivate, than continue)ACC-Activation Code: 13647 (Possible also 13377 or 30903)CCS-Activation Code: 11463
The codes are accepted by VCDS, but nothing changes.
Also, additionally the warning for engine fault has gone on. Is it possible to disable this warning? We tried code 30903 but it isn't accepted.
[Code] ....
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