How to check this fan and its operation on my V10 ... I have put off the re-map until I get this resolved as they may not be happy putting it on the rolling road for the re-map with such a defect.
View 6 RepliesCoolant flow seems to be not at its max output seems like it's blocked somewhere. Lots of pressure in bypass line of radiator after clamping of hose and releasing pressure of degas bottle?
View 11 RepliesHave great difficulty getting the car to jump start. Got it running briefly, clicked fob lock unlock system to break the anti theft interlock with doors left unlocked. Tried to put it in gear and it died. Cannot get it to jump start again. The hatch lock has no manual override to open it that I can find.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2002 Saab 9-5 sedan with a manual 5-speed transmission. It runs like a champ until recently. I've been having a lot of difficulty shifting into reverse. I've taken off the gaitor and looked down into the shifter to make sure everything is ok - looking for broken plastic, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. Clutch fluid is full. It all of a sudden started doing this. The car shifts through all 5 forward gears with no issues. I can eventually get it into reverse if I'm patient enought and other times it goes right in with out issue. Any clues? A saab dealer says its the transmission, but I'm not so sure.
View 4 RepliesWoke to some coolant under the car...
so I got under the car and found that the red leak (I did not touch it when I saw it .. I was in a hurry... ) was not atf after all... it is just the reddish VW coolant.... you can see it does look like ATF, but it is indeed sweet coolant
there was a significant marking at the bottom of the bell housing.
Seems almost impossible that it originated from inside there but there are no other traces that I could see.
Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
View 4 RepliesSince 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger 20012.5L
Manual 4 Cylinder4x2
Drivetrain~150K Miles
The problem with the vehicle is that it won't shift into gear easily and smoothly. It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday (2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25). I was driving around 35 MPH, slowed down to a stop at an intersection, and when I put it back into 1st Gear to begin driving, I had extreme difficulty shifting the gear.
I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting (getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood). Following this, I tested it while parked the next day. Same issue. Then I tried double-clutching, which seemed to work out, but I only did it parked, since I didn't want to strand myself on a road (I'll take that risk when I go to a mechanic, though).
I've read this [URL] ...., I'm pretty sure it's the clutch (master/slave cylinder) and I'm also aware that it could be the transmission fluid requiring a change. I haven't changed the transmission fluid at the 60K & 120K interval per Ford's suggested maintenance schedule (I got it around 50K-60K from a dealership, so I'm not sure if they may have done it preemptively).
A couple other details. For the past year or so, I've been driving 100 Highway miles for 4-5 days a week, for work (50 to work, 50 back home).
Are my assumptions right, or is it possible that my whole Transmission is getting ready to go? Are there any other details I should provide?
My 2011 Golf R is tuned to Stage 2+ by Revo and has the following hardware modifications:
1. Miltek turbo-back exhaust
2. Larger Intercooler supplied by Revo
3. Autech (spelling??) HPFP
4. Revo intake system with a foam filter
Lately I have experienced the following problems:
1. Difficulty in starting (sometimes)
2. A kind of "flutter" on starting as engine revs settle to the idle level
3. A noticeable hesitation in taking off from stand-still
4. Jerky acceleration immediately after the car moves from stand-still
5. At any speed, a noticeable hesitation when throttle is applied
All the above issues have happened in normal driving. By that I mean NOT hard driving. I drive my car on DSG "manual" shift mode.
Unfortunately customer service from, both, Revo and the VW dealer in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired. What are the different possible causes of the above problems, I can make sure that Revo / VW go through the full list until the cause(s) are identified.
My new 2014.5 Camry SE is awesome. I miss some things from my 2009 Altima Hybrid, but overall I'm happy I replaced it.
One thing I've found kind of odd is that I have a bit of a hard time closing the trunk. In most other cars I've had just pressing the trunk down gently will latch it (even if not fully closed) and it doesn't take much force at all to fully close. On my Camry, though, I feel like I have to slam it down pretty hard to get it to latch.
My neighbor and I each have a Ford F250 PowerStroke with automatic transmission, and we had a strange thing happen with his the other day. He had a 3500 lb trailer loaded with bark attached and I was backing it up his driveway. The driveway is pretty long (300-500 feet), curvey with a dog-leg, and up-grade, and the trailer has electric brakes that weren't connected. It all seemed OK at first, but then it gradually started to resist the attempts to continue backing. The further I backed, the more throttle I had to apply. I had to shift once to go forward to handle the dog-leg and there was no resistance going forward (actually, I just costed forward). After getting lined up after the dog-leg, the resistance to backward motion continued to increase. After getting the trailer positioned where he wanted it, we noticed that the transmission had been spraying ATF during the last part of the backing.
The next morning he drove the truck without any signs of trouble, no unusual resistance and no spraying of ATF.
1). What might have been happening that caused the increased resistance and the spraying?
2). What corrective action could I have taken when I noticed the increased resistance?
3). Might his tranny have suffered damage?
4). Is this something that could happen on my truck (it has SB 99-3-5 installed).
I just spent $658.22 on a EGR flow valve on my 2007 mazdaspeed 6 with 55,000 miles on it. This after two years of complaining about a shutter right before turbo boosts. Now I am having difficulty getting the car into 1st gear and 2nd gear. Took it to the dealer "can't duplicate". As I am driving away from the dealer I grind 2nd. Took it back to the dealer, went down the street with the service manager and grinded 2nd gear again. The service manager says "I'm shifting too slow". I am really concerned all Mazda dealers are waiting for warranty to go bad before they repair anything. Powertrain warranty is up at 60k something tells me I am going to pay for it. Why I am having difficulty in 1st and 2nd gear?
View 1 RepliesNoticed about a gallon of coolant on my floor the last 4 days. Got it pressure tested and was told bad water pump. Had it changed with timing belt and tensioners. Got home, next day, same thing. Coolant everywhere. Also, do I really need to put G12++ in as coolant? I've been using it but the shop put some green stuff in it.
I have a 2005, V8, Phaeton with 181,000 miles. Also, my car overheated, got the coolant too hot warning, 270 on gauge, let it sit 5 minutes, no problem afterwards. Should the thermostat have been changed also?
Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
We are having extremely cold weather. Yesterday my low air pressure icon came on. When I went to check the air pressure, I could not remove any of the caps.
View 5 RepliesI have a F350 with a V10 Triton motor. It has 186,000 miles on it. I have difficulty in starting it after it has sat for a few days. Typically I have to turn the switch off and on multiple times but it will eventually start. Once it has started it runs and starts fine if it has not sat for any long period of time.
I connected a pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Initially when the key was turned on there was no pressure. While the engine was turning over it was about 30 psi. When the engine started it remained at 30 psi. Ran the engine at 4,000 rpm and the pressure remained about 28 psi. Shut the engine off and turned the key back on the pressure showed 20 psi and remained there.
I'm thinking maybe the problem is with the fuel pressure regulator but can seem to find it. I've spent multiple hours searching online for the location of the Pressure Regulator but no luck.
I was checking the engine today and I think I found a coolant leak close to the Oil Filter reservoir, the fluid is PINK color and that matches the coolant type of fluid, check the pictures. Looking for the location from where the leak might be coming ? Do the Thermostat or Water Pump are closer to that location ?, I have the theory that they might be the cause of the coolant leak, they were changed about 4,000 miles ago,
View 7 RepliesI seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
I have serious drain now on the left side of the vehicle, and it appears to come from the radiator itself. Coolant consumption is approaching fuel consumption. Replace the radiator in a 2006- W12? Looking for some info on similar leaks and found them not originating from the radiator?
View 11 Replies