My car is at the dealer and keeps throwing this code after I had my paddle shifters removed. Everything worked fine before. the dtc is 01748 tiptronic up shift switch on steering wheel open circuit.
View 10 RepliesSo I have read that you can downshift while in D or S mode with the paddle shifters. Is this true?
View 4 RepliesTiptronic using the shift knob works fine, but the paddles just stopped working all of the sudden.
View 4 RepliesSo I bought the carbon paddle shifters that Khoa was selling from the first carbon steering wheel he got.
Having already replaced my OEM steering wheel with the flat-bottomed version, I was familiar with the process for removing what I needed to change the shifters over.
Everything went fine, and after checking all the connections were good, I re-installed the steering wheel, re-connected the battery, and took the car for a test-drive.
At first I left the car in auto, and tried using the paddles. Nothing. Flicked the shifter over to manual-mode, and it popped up I was in 4th. Tried shifting with the paddles to go up or down, but nothing.
I was short for time, so had to leave it like that for a few days.
I then removed the wheel again, and reinstalled my OEM silver shifters. Took the car out for another test-drive, and it works fine.
Khoa was kind enough to speak to the guys that sell these along with the very nice steering wheels everyone is talking about. They suggested I swap over the paddles so I keep the electrics of my OEM shifters. The paddles themselves are only held in with a gudgeon pin, which tapped out quite easily. The paddle itself slots in to a hole in a metal piece inside the plastic end pieces. Looks as if it simply moves up and down when you flick the paddle front or backwards.
I mounted the carbon paddles into my OEM electrics, and tapped the gudgeon pins back into place. I then re-assembled the steering wheel, check the connections, and re-installed the wheel. Re-connected the battery and took the car for a test-drive with everything firmly crossed.
Nothing!
The paddles won't work at all. Not up or down. I am so confused as to why they don't work. I can't see any differences between the OEM silver paddles and the carbon versions. Not sure what my next move will be. I need to try putting the OEM paddles back together, and see if they work. If they do, I am baffled as to what the fundamental difference can be between the two?
I have a metallic grey 2012 SE V6 Camry. While the car is in drive mode, not S mode, I accidentally pressed the paddle shifters while turning and the car went into manual mode. The blue lit display on the dash said D for drive, but it had the gear numbers next to it and I could down or upshift at will. In order to get out of manual mode I have to stop the car, put it in S mode and then back in drive, bc I heard u weren't supposed to shift bet drive and sport mode while the car is in motion. Is this normal?, How to take the car out of manual mode without putting it in S mode then back to drive?
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 v8 has been in the shop 6 times for the same air conditioning problem. My local VW dealership removed much of the center console and dash at the last visit for no reason. It ended up not being the issue. Now many of the lights do not work. This includes the fog light button, valet, vent control rocker switches, side mirror control, seat heater, transmission gear select, rear heated seat controls and vent control rockers. The lights for the dimmer switch and rear screen do not work as well. Now my tiptronic is not working and things seem to be deteriorating with a ground fault workshop error. I am really worried that they have messed things up. They claim it is because the light switch is bad. They also replaced all of the witches to no avail.
View 9 RepliesThis question probably applies to all VW but curious as to how the paddle shifter operates on the Passat. If i were to install it would i have to move the DSG gearbox into the manual mode in order to shift or could I leave it on "D" and shift down and up at any time?
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2012 Passat TDI SEL, and wanted to add a steering wheel with paddle shift. The existing information I found is not clear. I ended up ordering the wrong steering wheel and had to send it back. So I thought I would post some info FYI:
The air bag mounting is not the same for all the newer VW steering wheels. While the splines, and external look is identical the 2012 passat uses a different style of clip to hold on the air bag. This means if you get a Jetta type steering wheel your air bag will not work. Also, the steering wheel controller is completely different in the passat. The controller is not mounted in the center of the steering wheel. The best way to go is to get a steering wheel from a Passat V6 SEL. This wheel is plug and play, you only need the wheel and VCDS programming (airbag and harness are reused). The part number for the BLACK leather color WITH paddles is 561 419 091 HE 74 ...
I own a 2007 B6 Passat 3.6 (non 4mo) Sport with paddle shift:
Yesterday when exiting off the highway the engine just turned off when I attempted to down shift using the paddle shifter. I managed to start it again while still moving by putting it in to neutral and restarting. It started right back up and didn't seem to complain again all the way home.
This morning while driving to work, on the highway, i needed to accelerate to change lanes and pass a slow moving vehicle and the car didn't respond for possibly 2-3 seconds, it then after a few seconds, kicked down, accelerated but the engine light came on.
Once the Engine light came on the gear indicator in the dash display turned to solid blocks (as opposed to only highlighting the current gear).
Since then, the shifts have been very harsh and abrupt, when coming to a stop it seems to shift very hard in to first and doesn't seem to know how to function correctly at on/off throttle inputs.
I haven't managed to connect it to VCDs.
I just notice this behavior of my car recently (09 GS350 AWD). It usually happen in the morning when the engine still cold (Ohio winter weather 22-35 degrees in the morning). I noticed that when I let go of the gas paddle, my rpm needle dropped to about 1000 rpm and then immediately bounce back up. Is this normal??? I haven't notice this behavior after the engine get warm up. I was driving in normal mode.
View 8 RepliesI posted before that i my airbag light just popped on unexpectedly I didn't change the radio or anything now I have no paddle shifter control, no horn/ no lights absolutely no power on my steering wheel. Is something disconnected under the seat. How to solve this problem...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
View 2 RepliesI'm thinking about getting the 2014 Subaru Impreza with the CVT transmission, w/o paddle shifters, and found that there is a manual mode in the CVT. How does that work if there aren't any paddle shifters or actual gears to shift to? (I don't know a lot about cars).
View 1 RepliesFor the past maybe 10 months, my car has been giving me new AC problems. The AC runs just fine when I'm driving normally or on the highway (basically without stopping for long periods of time and out of traffic). But when I stop for a long time (traffic, drive-thru, long light), my AC begins to run hot. To be more specific, the car actually begins to feel like it is running with more difficulty, as the engine starts running loudly and then I know that it is game over and it begins spitting out hot air. I generally just turn the AC off and put the windows down until I can get moving again, and then the AC is colder when I turn it back on.
Now, about 5-6 months ago I took it to my Mazda guy and he checked it out. Of course, it did not do what I wanted exactly, showing him what really happens when it sits for too long. Anyways, he said that everything seemed to be fine & both fans were working, but that the freon (r134) was low and he charged up the system and added some freon. After this, the AC was running MUCH cooler than it was before and the problem stopped.
That brings me to the last couple months; the problem has returned. This indicates to me, perhaps, that the freon has leaked out at this point, so it needs some more r134, but with dye, so that they can get a sniffer and pick the leak. Additionally, the engine is not overheating or anything of that sort, so I don't think it has to do with the radiator or coolant. I have essentially replaced almost every other part of the AC system in the car within the last 3 years. I have replaced the condenser, one of the fans, the water pump, hoses, everything you could imagine that isn't the compressor or the second fan.
This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.
I'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.
My son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
I have a 2013 Forester with 39k miles, and last week I was 200 miles from home, put it in Drive and it didn't engage. After car was left running for a few minutes, and shifting between P, R, N, & D, it finally engaged. I was able to get it home and took to dealer the next day. They looked at the car, checked the computer logs, and told me nothing was wrong. Since then, it's happened 3 more times, and now I'm noticing it's not shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd gear (engine will rev and then it'll slip into gear).
To make matters worse, my wife couldn't get it out of Park two days ago. She had to use the shift lock release button, and could only start it when it was in Neutral. She then couldn't get it to back into Park and had to park it on a level surface with parking brake engaged. Heading back to dealer now, but would love to hear others' input.
My 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
On my 1996 Maxima (175k miles, maintained well, good shape, no CEL), whenever I brake beyond a "normal" stop but short of a panic stop, I then put my foot on the gas and it revs as though it's in neutral. It then catches first gear, and the car drives normally. As for the stopping conditions, I don't mean a normal "here comes a stop sign" comfortable stop, and I'm not stopping so hard that I activate the ABS. More like, I look up, see a stop sign 1 second too late, and have to stop slightly shorter than a comfortable stop. The ATF is fine, by the way. Any clue what this could be?
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