Phaeton :: Code 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 014 - Defective
Nov 20, 2011
Now that I have VCDS, I see a problem I never knew I had ... An error on the Air Con. I am not aware of any issue, it appears to do what I ask it. I cleared the error and it appears to appear again on a scan.
On reading the self study guide this looks like it might be an obstructed flap for the recirculation. I will have a close look next weekend.
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 907 040 J
Component and/or Version: Climatronic D1 2031
Software Coding: 0000001
Work Shop Code: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 254B0F7DE8FA196
1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
014 - Defective
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I have vw phaeton 4.2 v8 2003. nice car but have some problem's. First problem on engine when i check with VAG i see this messege
Address 01: Engine Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A167DFACF48DB6975
3 Faults Found:
18393 - Coolant Control Module 2 (J671)
P1985 - 002 - Malfunction
18308 - Coolant Fan Control 2
P1900 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
Need change second cooler or what???
Second problems is more bigger , my car not worming interior.. only warms when I push gas pedal and keeps on 3000 Throttle or more... when i check on vag i get message
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A167DFBFF48DB6975-5000
4 Faults Found:
00018 - Motor for Cold-Air Flap (V197)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00020 - Motor for Blocking Flap; Defrost and Body Vents; Right (V199)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00026 - Motor for Distribution Flap; Right (V205)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
00024 - Motor for Cold-Air Flap; Center Console Rear Right (V203)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
When I try delete , that impossible delete. What to do ? maybe need change interior car radiators??
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I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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recently started getting a 336 code indicating crankshaft positioning sensor out of limits.
removed the 7x sensor but it seems ok and the car does start ok. checked the ECM input of the 24x sensor and I never get anything but straight 11.2 volts when crank turns. checked at the 24x connector and get the same. (green lead on B connection).
problem I have is getting to the sensor. The crank pulley bolt just will not let go! I've tried impact gun set to max,(typical DIY type gun, not the best) and tried a breaker bar with hammer. how to get the crankshaft balancer off.
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So I swapped an R motor into my 20th anniversary GTi. It idles fine as soon as I rev it and the idle comes back down it starts breaking up and I get a code for exhaust flap no communication. Of course, there is no communication since I don't have one. Is there a way to code this out or to trick the ECU to make it think its there? As soon as i clear the code the car runs fine, even if I just turn the car off and back on, it runs fine.
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I got a "Defective Wheel" warning from my TPMS system today. I haven't had a chance to check the pressures today, but they look fine. I had gotten a couple intermittent "Flat Tyre" warnings over the last few weeks. Those would appear briefly then go away. This warning came on and stayed on. I doubt it is simply a pressure drop from cold weather, because I would get the "Check Pressures" warning when that happens. I had never seen either of these two warnings before (Flat Tyre or Defective Wheel). Should I assume that one of the sensors has failed in a wheel?
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Came back from car wash (probably no significance) pulled in garage turned off ignition and the title message came up in the center display. Car will not start. At this point I have no Vag Com and the car will not start.
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The summer has come and the ADR's radar overheats. I receive a massage : DEFECTIVE! . All cruise control functions are disabled. That means I don't have cruise control in the summer, Too bad. I just want to know if it is possible to deactivate ADR while keeping the regular cruise control on using VAG-COM without any hardware change.
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I have a 2003 toyota solara se v6 I got the engine light on the other day and I noticed the gas cap was not good so I bought a new gas cap from the deal and put it on then my engine light went off. But now after 3,3 days of putting the new gas gap it's back on again what I noticed now is I'm missing the fuel filler neck flap (little metal round thing ) it's where you put the gas nozel to fill the tank and also it's showing the code PO446.
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Came out of church this morning to a "Defective Wheel on Board" warning - of course these warnings only happen on weekends or when I am far from home.
From searching the boards and reading the manual, this seems to tell me that I have a tire that is going flat. I checked the air pressure in each of my tires (including the spare). I was down about 2 psi in the right front, but all others were right on. I went to add air to the right front.
I checked the pressures before going out later in the day and they were all still up. While turning in to a parking lot, the "Flat Tyre" warning displayed. I parked the car - nothing looked flat. Checked the pressure in all tires (including the spare) and they were still at the set intervals.
Went to do my shopping and 30 minutes later I was back to the Defective Wheel warning, but not the Flat Tyre warning. Drove home, checked all the pressures - everything still fine.
Just wondering about everyone's experience with this warning. What is the possibility that I have an issue with a monitoring system versus the tire? I bought the Phaeton used at 20k miles and now have 26k total on the odometer.
Does the warning code need reset by a VW tech if I go elsewhere to replace the tires? Although I think given the lack of any apparent issues with the tires, I probably need to take in to the dealer.
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I have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here. There is check engine code that points to the EGR. It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.
Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely. If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?
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My 1999 Camry - 4 cyc has a trouble code of P0136. Auto Zone told me it is a defective bank 1 sensor 2. As per the repair manual, the front passenger seat has to be removed to get to the sensor's electrical connector but an internet video shows that the driver seat has to be removed. Replacing the heated bank 1 sensor 2 on a Camry before?
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Yesterday the temp was at 97F and the air conditioning shut down (air flow remained constant except temp from all vents went tropical). The car was moving at 70mph on level ground in light traffic and not in a city. Stopped and ran a few 'reboot cycles' (turning ignition on and off in three minute intervals with the key out of range) with no luck. The next day the air worked OK - not great - but it was working and the problem returned after one hour of operation. Am I describing a refrigerant level problem or are the electron gods just angry at me for driving in a heat wave?
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I recently purchased a 2000 Accord coupe v6 with 180k on the clock. I've noticed the gas mileage isn't what it should be. The check engine light was on when I bought it turns out it was a p0401 code. I was told at the dealership insufficient egr flow would cause the car to run rich. So I figured that's what is killing my gas mileage. Well after cleaning the egr port, replacing the egr valve, changing the spark plugs and changing the oil there is no improvement.
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Need to diagnose an issue with my 2012 GTI its got 39,000 miles its stage 2 Unitronic tune. So I was driving like an idiot coming home one night and i jumped a set of train tracks. Bent my plastics a little and when I cranked my car the next day my CEL was on. I noticed my intake was much noiser than usual. My buddy checked the code and said i needed a new mass air flow sensor. We replaced it and my CEl came back on within 20 minutes of replacing the sensor.
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I am a shoe size 10 and when my foot is in some positions over the gas pedal I can feel my toes bump up against something hard. Upon further investigations it seems this is the metal hanger which the gas pedal sits on. I'm not sure anything can fix this issue but I am certainly considering replacing the pedals.
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1997 Ford F150. 6cyl, 4.2L 138K. Have CEL on and code reads: "P401 - EGR Flow insufficient". I replaced the EGR valve and checked the ports leading into them and they seem clean. There is one additional component called "EGR feedback sensor" which I really don't want to replace unless I can determine that this is faulty.
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My '96 4L developed the infamous P0401 insufficient EGR gas flow code 6 months ago. Rough running. Forgot to license it, now the St. Emissions Test was due before I could get new tabs issued. Finally got some warm dry weather to work on it. Started with the electrical measurements per DPFE graph of EGR flow vs electrical output to the PCM.
Showed the DPFE sensor failed, low V output max 2v. The old OEM aluminum body DPFE sensor was still in the old girl after 16 years. Corroded internally and ext., one hose nipple almost corroded off. Eureka. Put in a new Motorcraft plastic body upgrade. Same darn code.
Retested everything from the EGR vacuum valve that feeds the EGR valve to the new DPFE and then the EGR tube from the exhaust pipe. All tested ok electrically and leak wise. No fresh air leaks in the EGR V or EGR tube.
All pointed to restriction in EGR gas flow when PCM demanded it. Ran small stainless steel wire down the upper EGR tube line nipple to the EGR orifice trying to clear carbon build up, still the same P0401. Poured several cups of paint store acetone down each EGR tube hose with engine off and at 2k rpm to emulsify and dissolve the exhaust carbon out. Engine vacuum sucked the acetone up thru the EGR valve also cleaning it internally.
Let set overnight and took out for test drive. Still P0401. Almost ready to drive the green beast to the crusher of death.
Poured more acetone in the EGR and let set for 2 days prepared for the emissions station test failure then repair at emissions cert. shop with a shop waiver for no effective repair. Decided that the EGR tube or EGR valve were leaking fresh air, rusted and corroded. The end nuts on the tube were rusted away. EGR tube NLA from any source.
Went to the emissions test today and passed flying colors. NO P0401, drove all day on business. Got relicensed.
The old girl runs and drives like a dream, she's actually parked and sleeping in the garage tonight all pretty and shiny with a wash and wax job, got a reprieve from the Jaws of Death
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I am throwing a code for long term fuel trim being out of whack (code 17560) and I am trying to determine whether the MAF is causing it.
I pulled several redline runs while logging flow rate in vagcom. According to Ross tech's site they suggest that your flow rate should be around 80% of the engines rated horsepower. So approximately 200 g/s. I did several runs and never broke 100 g/s so what I should be seeing or has run into this code before.
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I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
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I just got a Check Engine light on yesterday. I went to Autozone and got an OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401, Insufficient EGR Flow Insufficient. The Autozone guy showed me an EGR valve for $164 and said it maybe blocked or something. I also checked with a friend who says that as long as the engine is not overheating it should be okay for driving for now.
So the far the car runs just fine, I haven't experienced any issues out of normal. Does the code mean the value need to be replaced?
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