Phaeton :: Clock Stopped When Switched Off The Ignition?
Oct 14, 2009
I am the very proud owner of a (European) blue 04 V10 with around 65k on the clock, having taken delivery in the spring, it's put a smile on my face almost every day that I've driven it. That's the great part! As with all cars I have some niggles, but yesterday my lovely analogue clock stopped (along with the back illumination) at the moment I switched off the ignition following my 5 mile commute to the office. I suspected a fuse, but on checking the fuse plan in the manual, I couldn't work out which one would be responsible. I will shortly begin removing and inspecting fuses, but I was wondering if this had happened to any other members and what fix was required to get the lovely clock going again. One other bit of information that may be relevant is that it was the first morning that I'd used the heated seat and heated steering wheel since buying the car.
Other minor niggle is that the parking sensors have never worked (I suspect a paint job is responsible).
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My 2006 phaeton analouge clock has stopped and does not light up, computer still showing GMT, thought it maybe a fuse?
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The car has 130K on the clock, and I don't know if she's had the plugs replaced, but the car has been stalling on her suddenly once it warms up, like the ignition switch is switched off. Then, once it cools down for a night, it runs again. If it only cools down for an hour or two, it will run but only for a few miles before quitting again. I'm thinking a sensor, pcm, or coils, but I'm hoping there's some way to narrow this down a little bit.
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Is there any way to disable the driver seat from moving all the way back when the ignition is switched off and the door is opened? The seat being all the way back makes it much more difficult to get my son in and out of his child seat in the back. Also, I'm not obese nor do I have mobility problems so the seat moving out of the way is a complete waste for me!
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To install my FLIR system I need a 12V power supply, ideally switched with my Gen III's ignition switch. Where in the engine compartment can I find that?
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I'm rocking a 2005 Ford Excursion with the 6.0L PSD. When the Ignition key is switched ON prior to starting, the injectors cycle in a priming sequence.
What I need to know from owners here, is how does that sequence sound to you? Does it start slow and then increase in speed until it's complete, sounding like a rise in pitch? Or does it just make the same sound the whole way through?
Trying to debug a random no-start and I'm trying different theories. Current suspect is the FICM, despite the OBDII always reporting 47V - 48V. For me, the priming sequence starts slow and then runs faster until it's complete. Trying to figure out if it should sound the same the whole way through.
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Unfortunately the above message flashed up on my dashboard last night, and it has re-appeared first thing this morning. The first thing it switched off was my air con, also I notice that the battery meter now barely gets above 12, prior to this message it would go up to just under 14 once the engine had started. I have a 2004 3.2 v6 and, as a preventative measure, I had a new battery fitted about 4 months ago.
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Last summer, driving my 2003 Audi A4, my A/C suddenly stopped working, and the "econ" button couldn't be switched off. I took it to my mechanic, who said that a loose screw had blown a hole through my A/C compressor (image attached). Not only was my A/C not working, but I had to pay $1400 right then and there to get a new compressor installed. As I understand it, the compressor in my car is run by the timing belt and if it jammed, it could ruin the engine. So I paid up, but still didn't get have the A/C fixed.
My mechanic told me that the hole blown through the compressor had sent shards of aluminum throughout the A/C system. So to fix the A/C, he'd have to flush the whole system and replace parts throughout the car... probably adding up to north of $3,000. Definitely not worth it, considering the total value of the car.
Any second opinions? Is there an easier way to flush the A/C system? As far as I understand, with my new compressor, all the parts of my A/C system work fine, but I just gotta get all the aluminum shards out.
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My center clock does not appear to be working. The time has not changed and it does not light up. I do get a horrible medium to high pitched whining noise which is intermittent. I was wondering which fuse is responsible for the clock and also if there is a way I can pull the power to the clock until I get it replaced if that is indeed the issue.
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The clock in my 2006 Phaeton is not working. The time is correctly set in the Settings on the electronic display, but the analogue clock does not move nor light up when the internal lights are on. I was wondering if the clock had its own fuse, but there is no mention of a separate fuse for the clock in the manual. So I don't know which fuse i would need to check or what else might be causing the problem.
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All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
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I have a 1994 Ford Explorer and the cruise control stopped working about a year ago. The horn still works. I changed the fuse but it's still not working. My mechanic checked the cruise control, and was able to determine it was either the clock spring or the control module located above the glove box. He told me it was most likely a bad clock spring, especially considering the number of miles on the truck (385,000). However, in speaking with a Ford dealership parts department, the '94 Ford Explorer does not have a clock spring. So, I'm back to square one.
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Checked the fuses under dash and under hood. Fuses look fine. The only things that don't power are Radio, Clock and side mirrors.
Everything else is fine. Recently changed battery BUT after new battery everything worked solid for days.
Recently got a transponder key made because old key broke.
If fuses are fine i'm not sure what else it could be.
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Does this look like a bulb may be burnt out?
It is dark between 5 o'clock on the speedo and 8 o'clock on the tach.
Where are the dash lights and what type are they?
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My Wife has been driving my Phaeton once a week to keep everything working normally. She hand washed the car and somehow during the washing evolution she set the alarm off. Now she's telling me the car will start but then it shuts down and also she can't get the key out of the ignition.
I had the car setup for a tow to the VW dealer so they could figure things out but the tow truck driver couldn't get it started or get the key out either so they couldn't tow it and from what my wife told me, they bought the wrong type of tow truck.
I don't know if this is a battery issue or what because the wife stated she hasn't had any problems cranking the car previously and battery has always shown the proper voltage and was checked by the VW dealership a few months ago and got a good bill of health.
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I purchased a used Phaeton, but...it has some issues that I've started to sort out beginning with reading this forum most of my waking hours the last two days.
Here are my issues:
1) Transmission - jerks quickly from 1st, barely spends a moment in 2nd, before shifting into third. Jerks hard and lunges through this process all in about 2 or 3 seconds. Smooth as silk from 3 to 6th gear.
2) No-key-in-ignition or blinker chimes (therefore don't know what else I may not be hearing).
3) No owners manual so I haven't figured out how to adjust rear view mirror or seat belt height.
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I have a dead car. My phaeton has been playing up as when you turn the key it did not always turnover its now been stood for a while and now the ignition won't come on when the key is turned. both the batteries are full and the key are recognized the only thing to come on is the info display center above the gear lever i have tried a new ignition switch and still nothing, any clues my car is 2004 v10 auto one last thing is there a way to unlock the gear lever as this not working as well...
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I dropped mine off this morning for service and noticed a 2005 parked exactly in the middle of the service lot blocking traffic and surrounded by a pool of oil.
Turns out it was delivered by flat bed last night. The flatbed driver was unable to start the car so he flooded the area and I assume his flatbed with oil so he could "slide" the Phaeton off his truck.
Service says they can't start the car or remove the key from the ignition, so there it sits. I told them I'd see if there was any advice here on getting that car back on the road - and outta the lot.
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I went out last night (fire training) and when I returned to my car, I unlocked it with the fob button, got in and put the key in the ignition and no click.... the key will not turn. This is the same key I drove out with. I thought if my kessey is bad, both of my keys are "locked out" My wife came out with my second key fob and the car started with no issues. My main key still won't turn in the ignition. So how do I get my car to like my main key again?
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I got a good deal on a 04 phaeton because of some electrical problems. I am starting the research to get it figured out, and there is a lot of info on the site which is great.
The problem is the key is stuck in the ignition (I got it out via the emergency release) and it can turn left and right and the car will not do anything
I put good batteries in the car since they were dead and there is no change.
My scanner (launch master) will not connect because I'm assuming I can't get the ignition key to switch into the "ON" position.
I love this car, but I don't love electrical problems!
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I have a busy family and often the kids are getting in the car with my wife and I. Perhaps I am just not used to the remote yet, but I am still struggling with the timing of the second button push and getting it to unlock the balance of the doors. I would prefer if the first button pressed unlocked ALL my doors and I didn't need the second press.
Is this a dealer only option to enable or can it be done with a via VAG COM? I have read the post about the "unlock all doors when turning off the ignition" and I am going to hopefully get the car coded to touching the door handle unlocks all four doors at once, but would also like this directly from the remote.
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