Phaeton :: Clicking Sound From The Exhaust
Jun 14, 2007
I recently took my car in for service and complained of the exhaust clicking (very audible) after the car is off. This clicking can also be heard when the car is running too - it is not as prevalent though. The service advisor said she spoke with several technicians and they said this was normal. The reason they cited was the stainless steel exhaust system in the Phaeton. They also said that humidity will exacerbate the sound.
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So I decided to drive my car this morning after almost 2 weeks of it sitting in the garage, got to the parking structure, pushed the button to lower the windows so I can swipe my auto parking card and it rolled down fine. Then tried to close the window and heard this metallic clicking sound and the window wouldn't raise. Called the dealership and drove right to them to look into it. Now I am stuck with a Jetta until my car is fixed.
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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Since I had my 40k service a few months back, I hear a knocking sound for about 3-5 seconds after a cold start (overnight is long enough). It's a pretty loud clicking sound, even worse if the car hasn't been started for a few days.
I brought it to the dealership and they said it's "the sound of the lifters clicking before they get pressurized with oil". They said the oil level is fine. Doesn't seem kosher to me - didn't happen before the 40k service.
Could they have used the wrong oil? Or perhaps didn't put something back together again properly?
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My sis drove the Phaeton yesterday and we had to go through some nerve-wrecking parking. The gaps were only a few milimetres across but luckily we made it through the lot in the end. Anyway, we had to do a lot of full steering turns (that is, when the wheel is turned to its maximum) and there's a worrying clicking sound that goes on until the steering is turned back from its maximum radius. Is it a problem or just a minor thing?
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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I just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
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I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
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Exhaust systems warning symbol that comes on if there is a Exhaust system problem. Yesterday when headed to lunch the warning symbol came on and it startled me as its a picture of an engine block. It was a solid symbol vs flashing. The Phaeton seems to be running well and the book does say get it in to be checked.
Mileage is 69,000
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From time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.
90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.
If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.
After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.
This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.
Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.
I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.
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So, I just hopped in my car ready to go to work, and my "exhaust" light came on. I drove it a block, and it seems very "jittery". I decided not to risk driving it, and am getting a lift with my wife.
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My exhaust system warning light came on this afternoon. Think the cars needs to be parked until I can get it to the dealer.
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I have a warning light on dashboard and bleep saying "Workshop Exhaust" and showing orange engine icon.
This first happened when I bought the car in November 2014, then went off after about two days, but is becoming more frequent two or three times a month.
I travel about a mile and a half to work each day, and have a longer run usually once a month, I have been told to select 3rd gear and when warm to drive for perhaps 10 miles to clear any build up of emissions.
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Yesterday my light went on for the exhaust warning. Does this mean I should now drive with a window open? And how serious can it be? Also, about 2 months ago I was told I need a serpentine belt. Would this have anything to do with the light coming on? You see, last time I wrote in here, I was told I needed new front brake pads and rotors. I was told from folks here that the dealer's quote was 2X what it should be, so I am hesitating to go back to same dealer.
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I have V6 Tdi -08 and my car has developed a tiny leak on the right hand side exhaust manifold. The purchase price for a new manifold is not to expensive but I now wonder difficult it is to replace considering how tight it is in the engine bay. If the engine has to come out in order to have it replaced or repaired.
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One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
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After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
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Earlier today my exhaust system warning light came on and stayed on. I am due for a 5 hour road trip tomorrow. I have 65K miles.
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At first I was hearing an occasional click as I shifted the weight of the car from left to right, or right to left. Then it started making the clicking noise a little more, now it clicks during parking lot turns in either direction all the time.
I read that it could be a wheel bearing? but with the turning clicks i'm almost positive its a CV axle going bad.
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I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
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After having the car "plugged in", it appears that one of the intake manifold swirl flaps isn't always returning to it's lower stop (fault P1018). The mechanic suggested that the actuator arm may be caked in debris, and that cleaning it and manually working it a few times should fix the problem?
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