Phaeton :: Catalytic Converters Are Very Hot And One Upper Left Is Even Red
May 19, 2011
The catalytic converters are very hot and the one upper left, when looking into the engine, is even red. The engine runs less than 10 minutes a the converters become very hot. I think when the engine run another 30 minutes, then I have a firework.
And that's not all. If the engine is idling, it's everything o. k. But if accelerates over 2.500 RPM, then it smokes as a locomotive. The smoke is white, dense and it smells like unburned fuel.
So I ask, are the converters blocked and I need to change them, or is the engine before death?
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I recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
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'05 GLX, 55k miles. Got an MIL light last week and it showed a P0421 code. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the right bank catalytic converter. That was last Friday. Fast forward to Weds. of this week. MIL comes back on and mileage drops noticeably, but power doesn't seem affected. Back to dealer, they end up replacing the other cat. Does this seem normal? I'm trying to figure out what may have led to this. Car is basically stock. I do my own oil changes (never overfill) and swapped out the spark plugs at 45k miles with Bosch Iridiums. [IMG] [URL] .....
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The vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
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I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
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My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
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Getting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
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My Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
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I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
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I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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Recently I have another problem:
When I drive uphill on the way the car's transmission doesn't shift up to the upper gear,the gear stays on 1,when I press the gas pedal more the EPC light comes on the dashboard,I must release 2-3 times the gas pedal then the gear goes up to 2-nd or 3-rd gear.This happens only when I drive uphill,when drive on flat street this problem almost doesn't come.
Another,when I drive downhill,the gear doesn't release sometimes too,the car tries to stop from 3-rd gear directly to 0,and the RPM goes straight to 100-200,even the car turns off... I heard something for the VW Phaeton transmission problems,and that it can be SOFTWARE flashed and the problems go away???
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Having issue with the 2006 Touareg instrument clusters. The upper left hand corner of the instrument cluster is getting dim. Also, my wife was driving to work the other day, and she stated that she heard what sounded like electrical arcing behind the console. Just curious. She has had the touareg in for service for the air bag error, which they had to order a part. Also, a mysterious headlight error keeps popping up, but then goes away. I don't want a fireball touareg.
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I got up to a cold, 25 below, morning... Went out to find 2 Phaetons that had to be left out overnight, SLAMMED!
They were both low ridas. I started them up easily, but no inflation of the suspension. Too Low Warning light on both dashes.
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probably need a right front strut, but have a number of questions about a remanufactured stut specific to my phaeton:
1. are the left and right struts the same? different oem part numbers, but some remanufactured struts say they replace either side numbers?
2. my 04 has had the struts replaced due to one strut having failed, are the remanufactured struts all configured to fit the new replacement struts (all say "04-06 model years, but no mention of early 04 struts)?
3. are the w12 struts different from the v8 struts, i haven't seen part numbers but i note there is are few dollars difference in oem cost and there is a different "box" to check in ordering from a vw supplier for the v8 strut as oppoaed to the w12 strut. (simply, will the v8 strut fit a w12)?
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is there and idle sensor in the torque converter? (Ford f250 5.4 gas 2 wd)
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When I start to take the car out of Drive, as soon as I push the chrome button on the gear selector, I get a loud click from the left side of the trunk. Is this a relay that is going bad or could it have something to do with the transmission? I get the sound before the car even goes into Reverse.
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I have just noticed a high pitched squeal coming from the front end of the car when I turn left only.The more I turn left the louder the noise. It does not happen while I turn the wheel when stationary.
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V10... Suspect it's the power steering pump... Seems to come from left of center of engine.
Not taken any covers off yet to see what can be seen..
Scans clear. It's arguably too loud even to drive! So needs some attention very soon.
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What are the steps to remove the left side vent assembly? The hinge is broken on my wooden cover and poking around I can't seem to get the whole vent assembly out.
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I had a very slow oil leak that dripped onto the garage floor and i brought it into the dealership. They said it was a leaking left valve cover gasket; I searched and came up with nothing? The engine has just over 30K miles on it.
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