Phaeton :: Car Sounded Like Something Catching On The Fan
Jan 31, 2014
Had a really annoying noise from the HVAC today which sounded like something catching on the fan - but it would stop at moderate speed or when the air flow flap was closed. I took off the plenum cover and moved the flap spindle slightly which seemed to cure the problem. Could it be wear in the spindle (or lack of lubrication) causing the flap to vibrate, noting that with the HVAC in auto the fan is running fairly fast most of the time (and I always have it in auto). I have seen the thread about leaves getting into the HVAC plenum but I dont think thats the issue.
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My 1999 GMC Suburban just started "catching" when accelerating uphill and going 50+ mph. Does not occur any other time.
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The horn in my car started to sound like if it was going to catch a cold then it stopped sounding, however if I press the panic button in the keychain it does sound perfect. Where and what should I look for. Is it a relay, the spring contact on the steering wheel?
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We bought the car this past summer. Notice steering wheel vibration during braking. Figured rotors were warped. Which they were. Replaced all 4 rotors and pads. Now I notice that when I brake at a stop light or sign, it feels like the brakes are catching and slipping. Jerking movement. Like you are pumping the brakes slightly. Brake pedal seems slightly mushy too. Maybe air in brake lines?
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A few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
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So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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This first started happening about a year ago. started the car and it seemed fine to put it in gear to drive stepped on the gas and there was no power. the car moved forward slowly and felt like the engine was skipping and catching and then it would die. took it to the shop and it started right up first try for them. they drove it and it was fine. ever since then, it happens at random times on and off. I'm not sure if its bad fuel or something it just doesn't make sense to me.
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My 2.8 v6 2000 has been acting wierd when shifting it kind of feels like the clutch is slipping its through acceleration so when the rpm's are climbing it feels like it is slipping but than above 3 rpms it accelerates with no problem, when it feels like it is slipping the check engine light blinks, obviously telling you to stop driving, but than the check engine light goes back to a solid warning and stops blinking. just had my oil changed and after that my check engine light came on solid, now it is sluggishly bumpy when accelerating and feels like the clutch is not catching,Wish i knew what it could be.
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My gas lid will not shut flush. When I lock the doors it makes a loud sound as if it is having a hard time catching the lock. The lock still catches but its still not flush. When the car is unlocked and I shut the door I can just pull it open without pushing on it as it is not sitting flush. I checked for anything that may be in the way of the hinge and all seems normal.
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Took my car in (2011 Golf Base 2dr 5spd) for it's 10k mile oil change and checkup and mentioned that the A/C sounded a little noisy, kind of like a whine, every so often. It didn't really bother me but my wife would complain about it. The air was ice cold and I just figured maybe it was normal. Well I got a call from the service advisor and he said the noise was due to an internal failure and they were going to replace the compressor. I sure was surprised. Got the car back and the A/C is just as cold and is now nice and quiet.
So if your A/C is even slightly noisy I would bring it up. Could save yourself having to replace a costly compressor down the road.
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I did the flapper mod on the exhaust... pulled the hole out, put a screw in at the end of the hose and then capped off the inlet where the hose would plug into. So have doing that I honestly could not tell a difference. The car sounded amazing when turned on after sitting awhile b/c it was idling just above 1K before it went below and sounded normal.
Also, having my car next to a MK4 R32 with the flapper, the Mk4 sounded much better and louder with the same mod done to stock systems. It is very simple and to the point and with not really hearing much of a difference with it done and then a MK4 sounding 10x better got me thinking and I wanted to ask
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I have a 1993 Toyota Pickup and on Sunday, driving home from camping, I noticed my fourth gear had a really high pitched chirping sound. I figured it was bc I was accelerating uphill, and thought nothing of it.
Monday night, I was driving down the street and it started again. In fourth gear. It literally sounded like crickets in my engine...
It's only in fourth gear, and it's only in mid fourth - like if I slow it down (like I'm about to shift into third) or speed up (like I should shift into fifth), it fades out.
My brother in law the mechanic said I should try getting my transmission serviced, which I did, the next morning. It still makes the chirping sound.
It doesn't make the sound when I have the clutch in, even a tiny little bit, but the second my foot it not resting on the pedal, it starts.
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Had a howling noise that sounded like a bearing going out. After searching, I see that the fan belt is actually sliding on the pulley. Looks like a vertical alignment problem. It could be the idler pulley, the fan pulley or possibly the lower Crank (?) pulley knocking it out. I can see the belt sliding approx 3/8 to 1/2 inch . At idle it sits closer to the engine, as rev it seems to line up. All this action certainly means the belt is shot. But could be idler too.
I went through a few things to check it out. I looked at the power steering unit, pulled off the belt and check if there was any obvious play in each of the pulleys. All seemed ok. The idler seemed rough running but no wobble of play in it. I will replace the idler anyway since I bought one. The belt has no damage to it. It was changed about a year ago. So it's just been wandering on the fan pulley. Went to the Crank pulley and the dampener .and it feels tight. There are some obvious small plastic cracks on the outside. friend suggest pulling on the pulley and look for separation between the inner, outer, and rubber ring in between. Felt and looked tight. After I change the idler anyways, I'll look again. But could the crank dampener still be bad?
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Last night I found out my car can "sense" when I have low pressure in my tires as it sounded an alarm. It was right my back driver side tire must have a slow leak because it was down to 25 PSI. I looked in my manual and on my inside panel of my driver side door but couldn't find anywhere what the correct pressure should be. I checked all my tires. My two front, which are brand new tires came it at 38 PSI, my passenger side back was at 35. So I filled the other back tire back up to 35 and reset the low tire pressure alarm. Got up this morning and the tire was down to around 30, so off to the tire shop on Saturday. But where can I find out what is the best PSI for the four tires.
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I had a couple people in the bed of my new F150 SCrew with the 5.5 ft. bed and it sounded like the metal was cracking as they walked around in the bed. Is that normal? It didn't sound good.
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I have an 07 2.0t m/t w/ 19's. It rides great but the other day temps got down in low 30's high 20's which is cold for Myrtle Beach, SC. When going over speed bumps I could hear creaking which sounded like it was coming from the front wheels (didn't creak when back wheels went over bump) I figured maybe it was something to do with the cold. It did this for about two days and finally on third day when going over same speed bumps the noise was gone but it was still 30degrees. It resurfaced today and temps are in the 50's. Car has about 50,000 miles but it is a CPO vehicle warrantied for another 2years/24,000.
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Was cruising on the freeway and all of a sudden my exhaust sounded like it has a leak!!! I gave it some gas and it got louder but the car didn't pull like normal??? No check engine light or anything crazy. I don't think the inter cooler pipes blew off because the engine didn't shut down and I was on cruise mode.
Its sounds like the turbo wants to spool but cant hold boost, can this be the diverter valve leaking or its blown?? I haven't had the chance to check which diverter PN# I have but Im pretty sure its the stock OLD version. I am the 3rd owner. 07 Passat FSi variant with 36K miles.
I hear the 07 FSi are know to have bad or weak Diverters.... I know I needed to go with a stonger TSi Diverter which I hope is the problem here....
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My 2005 Chevy Malibu (97,000 miles) started sounding like the motor was going to die tonight as I was idling. When I started to drive again, the motor sounded kind of noisy and the RPM's went up and down (from 1 to 2 and back down again), and the engine light came on. The temperature gauge showed that the car was running a little hotter than usual, but not much. The gas was about half full, I have had no problems with the gas gauge. I change my oil regularly. No message came on my message panel. I can turn off the engine and start it up again just fine, but the engine still sounds bad and the light still comes on.
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The car won't start. It sounded like the battery was dying when we tried to start it the other day. We went and got a new battery, but it didn't work. It has a new altenator, new starter, new timing chain and it's also had a transmission rebuild all within the last 4 years. I'm not really sure when the spark plugs were last replaced. Could this be the issue?
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I was recently experiencing problems with my front brakes. It sounded like it was grinding on something (it doesn't screech) whenever the speed reaches below 15 mph. I called up my dealer to take a look and upon investigation they told me that i needed to do the front brakes job but they could save the rotor (they charged me around $300). Is this common ? It is a daily driven car and i mostly drive on highways. I drive the 2014 RWD IS-350 F-sport model and just recently hit 17.8K miles.
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I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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