Phaeton :: Car Cut Off When Engine Is Not Running
Dec 7, 2015
So i bought a 2005 Bentley continental gt and I have been told many times by different mechanics and owners that this car is almost like the VW Phaeton. Ever since i got the car, it had this problem so i don't know what caused it and how it can be fixed but basically all of my electronic components such as lights, windows, key fob remote, etc only work when the car's engine is actually turned on and running. As soon as i turn the engine off i hear a click in the trunk area and everything shuts off at the same time. It seems like some kind of safety cut off or something. It happens almost everytime and i have to close the doors manually with the key. Both batteries are brand new.
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My 05 V8 Phaeton radiator cooling fan is not running and hence engine overheats. The AC cooling fan works alright, it comes on when i switch on the AC. I have verified that the actual radiator cooling fan works by plugging it to the ac cooling fan socket. I have checked fuses and all ok. there are no dealers near me. I have also gone through all the cooling fan threads and all of them are for constant running fans, none for a non running fan.
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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I have a problem with the engine cooling fan (driver side) - is not running. The other fan is working properly. On this arrangement driving on the high way the engine cooling is OK. Driving in the city the oil temperature is richening 215 -220 F (however the water temp. is OK at 200F) and the AC unit is stopping (I am assuming because of that). V8 Phaeton...
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My v8 is running hot!! On a short trip I just had this happen to me. Oil temp is at 110 Celsius and the water temp was almost pinned at 120 Celsius. The warning light never came on but I didn't take any chances and limped home with the heater blasting,windows open at 80 kph. Thermostat,water pump??? My mileage just turned 100k so I guess replacing the timing belt might be good...
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I've never been a fan of daytime running lights, useless option that shortens the life of the bulbs. My Audi A8L had an option in the MMI that would allow you to turn the DRL's off. Is there a similar option on the 04 Phaeton W12? Or is there a fuse I can pull? Or is VAG-COM the only way (I don't have one yet - not in my immediate budget)?
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In the morning I start my car to warm it up. As it gets closer to winter, it stays dark in the morning. When I start my car, the headlights switch on to basically say this car is running (and empty). How do you start the car but keep the headlights off, or have only parking lights come on?
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A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
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My father and I have an '05 W12 Phaeton with 54k miles. It's developed a peculiar humming noise (very harmonic like a resonance) that is present any time the car is running. My father insists on taking the car to an independent European car repair facility instead of the dealership (much to my displeasure).
The shop first said it was transmission related and advised a fluid change. This did nothing to fix the issue and I'm not even confident that they have the ability to do such a thing correctly without dealer specific tools. Car never left the shop as that obviously did nothing.
Next, they claim there resonance was felt / heard through an oil line. They changed oil and filter thinking bad oil filter (crazy, I know). This also did nothing.
Now, they say that they attempted bypassing the oil cooler and this made the noise go away. The are advising replacement of the oil cooler assembly.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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I'm the owner of a phaeton W12, i want to known if the engine can run with ethanol and with a kit. What are the risks for the fuel pumps, injection pump, injectors.
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No indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
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I have, a very unusual problem, My Phaeton stalls sometimes on low RPM, and errors on VCDS SAE P0087.
After a stall, I start up again and drive normally without a error on my dashboard, until another stall occurs, they are occurring always on low RPM, more frequently when car is turning ( intersections are a b...ch ). The things I've done so far to get rid of the problem is:
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Checked if there is aluminium in Fuel Pump Filter ( there wasn't ) - cleaned it anyways
btw. there was no indication of aluminium in any of the parts that were replaced, so I think it's safe to assume fuel pump is ok.
After the replacement of Fuel pressure regulator I've driven with my friend with attached VCDS and gathered logs of pressure in fuel rail:
This part of log is during attempted right turn, when engine died.
I'll replace Fuel Pressure Sensor tomorrow, but don't expect much...
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I went to check the oil today. For the second time the end of the dip stick is broken off.
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Our Phaeton has a had a problem with the radar unit and was the electronics where repaired. According to the repair people it now has to we reactivated in the car but we are not managing to achieve this with VCDS. We have tried the following codes:
Code:
Select 01 (Engine Electronics)Security Access -> Function 11 (Codierung II) ACC = Adaptive Cruise ControlCCS = Cruise Control System (Normaler Tempomat) ACC/CCS-Deactivation Code: 16167 (first deactivate, than continue)ACC-Activation Code: 13647 (Possible also 13377 or 30903)CCS-Activation Code: 11463
The codes are accepted by VCDS, but nothing changes.
Also, additionally the warning for engine fault has gone on. Is it possible to disable this warning? We tried code 30903 but it isn't accepted.
[Code] ....
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I have a 3.0 TDI Phaeton 2006.
One day when i tried to start it on morning it's spinning long time but cannot start. I connected a VAS and there was one ECU error of camshaft position sensor - signal not real. 2nd different thing that I have only communication with 3 modules - ECU, gearbox and dashboard.
I bought a new sensor and change it. No positive results - the same error. I decided to make new wires connection direct to the ECU so i take new wires and connect sensor directly to the ECU. It's also didn't take any effect - the same error.
After days in which I want to burn this car I decided to change shaft speed sensor (RPM sensor) - i took one from my mum's car - it is the same (A6).. There is no error on ECU but it doesn't start also. But now engine trying to start in different way - only 2-3 rotation of engine and stops (before changing shaft speed sensor it was spinning a lot times when trying to start).
I also turn off immo from ECU by BDM100 to be sure that there is no immo problem. How I can find reason why there is no connection with lot of modules ? I checked fuses in 3 places (in trunk, next to the driver legs, and next to ECU). Engine cannot start without communication with airbags but how to find problem with communication.
And the one small thing: before changing sensors when car was dead some injectors was clicking but rarely and not synchronized. After changing sensors (and no errors now) there isn't any noise (clicking) of injectors.
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This evening I experienced a hiccup when starting the Phaeton. The engine would turn over, but it would then shut off as if there was not enough gas. After two tries I gave it some gas immediately after ignition and it solved the problem. The car had not been sitting for long as I had just returned from a trip in it not an hour before. I recall having this problem once before several months ago, but nothing ever became of it.
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Need to identify this noise? Don't be too alarmed by the engine tick. I had the recorder up close to the engine.
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Dipped the oil today... and the dipstick came out completely dry. Put it back in again and it came out showing oil halfway between min and max.
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