Phaeton :: Can't Lock GP0 Originally?
Apr 3, 2012
Parked up my GP0. Locked with the remote. Went into a shop. Came back 10 min later. Couldn't unlock the car at all... or operate the boot. Unlocked with the key and drove home no problem. Noticed that when I unlocked the car with the key, the red lights on the window sills were still blinking until I started the car...
Locked the car up (and unlocked and locked a few times) at home.. no problem with the remote. Noticed that the key was stiff when used it earlier so blew some powdered graphite into the lock. Thought it worth doing the same with the GP1. So unlocked that with the remote. Blew graphite into that lock too. Now in exercising the key in the GP1, I locked the car again, which arms the alarm etc and the red lights blink. When I unlocked with the key, again the red lights remained blinking.
Since both GP0 and GP1 do this when unlocked with the key, I assume this is normal behaviour. Why I couldn't unlock the GP0 originally? Local interference? Let me lock it up OK
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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Yesterday, I parked my Phaeton and hit the button to lock it. Nothing. I walked all around the car, pressing the button a couple dozen times. Still nothing. The trunk release button wouldn't respond either.
So I get in the car, start it up again, turn it back off, and try the key again. This time, it locks normally on the first try. What is the reason for it?
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I took apart my key fob to replace the plastic pad. With the new pad in place all the functions light up the little green led but it won't lock, unlock the car or open the trunk. The door lock cylinder was seized when I bought the car. So now I have a locked Phaeton in my driveway that I can't get into. I don't have a scan tool (I would need to be in the car to use it anyway) and the nearest dealer is 260 miles away .
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My key is stuck in the trunk lock and ...
Can't open the trunk from inside the car because the car thinks the trunk is already open.
Can't open manually - I think the latch is broken.
Can't override the power trunk mechanism with Vag Com.
Short of removing the rear seat to attack this from the inside, is there any way to resolve this?
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Had a CEL and went to Autozone to have them read the code. Guy cleared the code then the car wouldn't start and it locked the key in the ignition. After a minute, it started, but now the doors will not lock either by switch or by fob. They don't lock at speed. Also the soft-close system is failing to work on all four doors. Did this dude wipe out my lock programming or something? The alarm still works but the doors won't lock and the child lockout buttons don't work either. Maybe I should get a programming tool?
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I noticed that when I go to lock my car, the beep sound is extremely low, than at other times it is of normal loudness. I could be wrong, but is it possible there is an association with the altering sound and the rain? It seems after the rain it happens for a few days, then gets better.
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I took my car to our local Phaeton Service Center yesterday (the bottom plate needed to be cleaned so it could pass the obligatory annual technical evaluation). I had the technician perform a few software adjustments (no seatbelt warning, activation of comfort window opening via the remote control, automatic locking and unlocking of the doors) and now when I lock the vehicle the red alarm LED's on the inside of the front doors start to blink for a few seconds, and then stay on (solid red) for about two minutes. After that they start to blink slowly again.
Before yesterday, when I locked the car, the LED's would blink a bit faster for about ten seconds, and would then resume their slow blinking. Is this normal behavior or did something go wrong?
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Rear passenger child lock is stuck on and door can not be opened from inside.
I can turn child locks on from front drivers side and it operates as should displaying lights and locking doors in the rear but when I turn child locks off only the rear drivers side releases from inside.
I can open the rear passenger door like a chauffeur which my little girl quite likes but it's annoying me now.
I removed the little rubber but all I can seem to do is manually lock the door and not release it.
Fuse maybe ? Or is it a dealer fix
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On Friday, all of a sudden I found that I could not use the keyless feature to lock/unlock my car anymore, and when I tried to start the car with the push button, it showed "key not found" "immobilizer activated". By that time, i still could use the remote key to lock and unlock the car, and start up the car with the key blade. After I drove and parked the car, I went to get a new battery for my key because I thought my battery was giving me the trouble. Then I went back to the car, I was still able to lock and unlock the car with the remote buttons, but I cannot start up the car, even with the key blade. So I disconnected both battery, waited and reconnected them, the car is able to start with the key blade, but can no longer lock and unlock with the remote buttons. So I can only lock the car manually now.
Later, I scanned the car, found there are 2 faults. One is an old fault, which is "the antenna in rear bumper has no signal intermittently", and the new fault is "luggage compartment start/access authorization antenna upper limit exceeded", and gave me a time that this occurred, which is exactly when I first found the keyless entry didn't work on Friday.
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Second time that my 2004 Phaeton has experienced an ignition lock up. 1st time while driving the ignition shut off and everything stopped. I was getting the car towed and upon recheck all was well. Now, while driving, the panel flashed "Stop, Ignition Lock".
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Got the following problem with my 2004:
1. Unlocked ny car this morning by use of my remote key and the alarm went off.
2. Got the alarm turned off by locking and unlocking my car several times by use of my remote keys
3. Put the car in reverse and took out of the garage. Parked the car and put the gear stick in P position. The knob on the left side of the gear stick remained in the "in" position where one usually can move the gear stick up and down between the gears.
4. However, I was not able to move the gear stick, and the main display said something in German like "Call the workshop".
5. Locked the car bye use of one of my three remote keys.
6. Later, after trying to solve the gear stick problem by moving the knob and the gear stick in several ways I was not able to lock the car with any of my remote keys. No messages were displayed.
7. I was only able to manually lock the door where I used my key.
The knob on the gear stick is showing scratch marks so someone has tried to do something to it earlier. I have owned the car since easter this year and has not experienced this problem earlier.
The battery on the left side of the car is new, and the batteries were charged for 12 hours two weeks ago. The car has not been driven much since easter, and has only been taken in and out of the garage four times during the last three weeks without being driven.
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The trunk lock switch on the d/s inner door panel has stopped working. Also both remotes won"t open the trunk as well. Everything else seems to be OK.
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I did read all of the topics in the FAQ and I tried the tricks to reset the automatic trunk, yet still no luck. I notice the latch is stuck in the down postion -- could that be part of my problem? I noticed some water under the spare therefore I'm eager to get this fixed asap.
I also made a road trip on the freeway yesterday in some very nice weather and the AC wasn't cold -- I had it all the way on "Low". I'll have the dealer check that out also. Apparently the previous owner in Vegas used up all of the cars cold air.
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Background: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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I have a 2005 W12 with keyless entry etc. ..etc. I cannot lock /unlock the doors or open the trunk by pressing the regular buttons. I have replaced the battery in my key some months ago. The key that my wife has the same problem...
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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On my '88 Ranger, there is the key lock that needs to be pressed to remove the key. When I changed the ignition cylinder, I darn near went ahead and removed it. I though I better check here first, and see if I was going to disable some other function I don't know about.
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My Chevy Venture 1998 power lock doors will unlock but won't lock. Checked fuse and is ok.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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