Phaeton :: Camshaft Rattle When Engine Started
Nov 8, 2006
VW has issued a TB (technical bulletin) with information about the camshaft on the 4.2 liter V8 engine. The gist of the TB is as follows:
The camshaft adjustment is hydraulically actuated and controlled by the engine oil pressure. If the vehicle has been sitting, with the engine turned off for a period of time, the oil accumulation inside the camshaft adjusters partially bleeds off and the oil flows back into the oil sump.
To ensure an efficient camshaft adjustment after an engine cold start, the oil pressure inside the camshaft adjusters must be built up as quickly as possible. During this time a slight rattle or knocking noise may be audible. This noise is normal at engine start and will last until the oil pressure is fully reinstated.
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VW has issued a TB (technical bulletin) with information about the camshaft on the 4.2 liter V8 engine. The gist of the TB is as follows:
The camshaft adjustment is hydraulically actuated and controlled by the engine oil pressure. If the vehicle has been sitting, with the engine turned off for a period of time, the oil accumulation inside the camshaft adjusters partially bleeds off and the oil flows back into the oil sump.
To ensure an efficient camshaft adjustment after an engine cold start, the oil pressure inside the camshaft adjusters must be built up as quickly as possible. During this time a slight rattle or knocking noise may be audible. This noise is normal at engine start and will last until the oil pressure is fully reinstated.
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My 2002 Saturn SL1 seems to have a rattling noise when I first start it up. At first I thought it might be the air conditioner compressor, but it continued when I turned the air conditioner off. Now I am wondering if it might be related to my fan motor, for the heater AC. When I turn it off, the rattling noise seems to go away, but not always, especially when first starting the vehicle.
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I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
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I have a 2014 es300h with 7400 miles. Recently the check engine light came on and the dealer diagnosed an oil control valve and something to do with camshaft timing. They also said something about removing valve covers to clean? Is this a potential sludge issue? They kept he car and gave me a loaner. They also opened a TSA with Lexus. My question is this: is this not incredibly unusual to have this issue with a new car? It almost makes me want to get rid of it before something else happens.
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I have a 2007 Camry V6. Last weekend, I changed all the spark plugs and five ignition coils. (117,000 miles on car). In January, I replaced the #6 ignition coil. Last week i threw a code for the #2 coil. Fearing the domino affect, I replaced all five remaining coils and changed all 6 spark plugs while i was in there.
Now I am throwing code P0368. This happened immediately after i changed the coils and plugs. What is this about!?!?!? Ive driven it maybe 40 miles since the plug/coil change...engine light is on the whole time. Is this sensor bad or does my car need time to "rethink" with all these new parts ...
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I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
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06 sonata 3.3 L V6. Light has been on for a month or two...took it in to mechanic yesterday and it's a camshaft position sensor error...it makes total sense to me now because my cars been starting hard, seems like it gets hotter then usual...and had a "clicking" noise for about 10 mins, then gradually goes away. it takes a few extra cranks now to start the engine unless it was already fired up.
Also does a jerk once and a while around 40 km/h. I looked online and those seem to all be symptoms of a failed camshaft position sensor (CMP). Would those symptoms seem about right? Am I okay to drive slowly for the weekend before I get the new sensor installed? The mechanic didn't seem to worries about me driving for just the weekend...but it's worrying me a bit...
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I drove the family to the lake yesterday and returned with no problems at all. This morning I started the car and there was a really loud rattle from under the hood. I popped the hood and listened more closely. It sounded like it was coming from the top-end. When it shut down it seemed to whine a bit and kind of ground to a halt, almost like a belt was rubbing something. I tried to start again. Now it turns over but doesn't start. The oil's maybe .5-quart low, none on the driveway underneath and no strange smells.
I'm going to have it towed to the dealer today. I'm a bit concerned though I do have the security lockout feature. I also noticed the last time I washed it that both tail lights had moisture inside the lens and my power lock buttons are bubbling up. This one may take a while. I'll update as I know more.
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I have a few different rattles going on that I am not sure how to fix. I did a quick search and didn't find exactly what I was looking for.
1) Sunroof sunshade - about a week ago, the sunshade on the sunroof has started to rattle when the sunroof is open. If I lightly push up on the sunshade the rattle stops. The rattle goes away when the sunroof is closed.
2) Armrest - I get a rattle when driving over anything but super smooth roads if the armrest is any position but all the way down and pushed in. When armrest is extended, if I put any weight on it, the rattle pretty much goes away.
3) Driver side dash vent - again over anything but super smooth roads, the driver's side vent on the dash (next to the top of the drivers door) will rattle. If I push on the vent, the rattle is reduced but doesn't go away completely.
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I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
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1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
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I have a rattle/ticking noise that happens when the 05 Phaeton experiences road vibration. I'm thinking about taking it apart to see what may be loose. This is the console between the two front seats.
I've narrowed it down by placing my hand on top to silence. It can't be silenced by touching the rear seat vents or power plug cover. So it seems the whole console must vibrate to create the noise.
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I just installed a brand new 42DD downpipe in my car about two weeks back. About a week later, I started noticing a rattle that I hadn't heard before, coming from the undercarriage, about mid way back, where I assumed the downpipe is. I only hear the rattle at low RPMs, like 1000-1500 revs, when I pull away from a light. I can stop the rattle by giving it more gas before letting the clutch all the way out, but if it's something I can easily fix myself, I'd rather just do it.
I searched some DIYs and found this. [URL]..................................... I bought new sets of stage 1 dogbone mounts that I need to put in soon, probably next week when I'm on break, if that will remedy it.
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So I recently lower my car and my 3" exhaust started a constant rattle when I'm in the car. When I get out it stops. Been lowered for a week or so now and today was the first time that happened. I've read up and seen its pretty common when we go lower. Also some ways to possibly fix it.
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Is there something I can do about this? Is it normal for it to come on every time I start the car. Even if I turn it off before I turn off the car it always turns onto 72 degrees and the front vents come up. I tried to change to another profile , but that does not work. There must be a setting that I miss to have it totally shut off.
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I have a 2012 Subaru Forester with 27,000 miles on it. It has a rattle that started out in the glovebox area, and has migrated to areas around the dash, center console, liner by the sunroof control etc...I have had the car in the shop 5+ times, the last time being a week and a half. Everyone is baffled by this rattle. It seems to come and go. The glovebox liner was replaced, and other areas insulated, yet it still rattles, although it is not consistent.
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Have been chasing a rattling noise for a while on a 2002 Camry 4 cyl AT.
Here's a brief video: [URL] .....
The conditions when the noise appears are as follows:
Start car, turn AC on, place into drive/reverse. Rattle is present initially, then goes away after driving a bit.
The noise seems to be worse after the car has been sitting overnight.
If car is started and placed in drive/reverse without turning on the AC, then the noise is not present.
If the car is started and the AC turned on and the car is in park/neutral, then the noise is not present.
The tensioner pulley seems to be moving quite a bit in the video. Is this normal?
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Have been to dealer multiple times with concerns about speaker vibration from rear passenger door and rattle when going over rough spots from same general area. They end up saying they have not heard anything and I end up feeling like I am losing my mind. Does seem to be worse some times than others. Last weekend I opened the door and tapped the area around the base speaker. Lo and behold, sounds like there is something loose in there. Seems like it is moving around freely at times and may be caught somewhere and thus quiet at other times. What might be in there? Any easy way of getting at it on my own?
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My beloved 2005 Phaeton has started beeping when turned off both with and without the security system engaged. This has never happened before.
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My lower beams started to flicker, red as hell, too. Can I change them myself? I've got a 2004 V8 Bi Xenon car. Is it possible to be serviced without removing the front bumper? If not, does a manual exist on how to remove that damn bumper and the lamp module to get access to those lower beams?
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