Phaeton :: CEL Due To Lean Condition On Bank 2
Dec 10, 2015
A few months ago I got a CEL, the problem was a lean condition on bank 2. Since then, that problem has happened again two or three times. Yesterday, I got the CEL again and now it's showing lean on both banks. When it was just the single side, I was thinking MAF, but now it's both I'm thinking possibly the fuel pump. The only other thing of note which may affect it is that I'm 90% sure the thermostat has been stuck open for the last couple of years, which presumably affects the map being used, it does throw an "implausible coolant temperature reading" fairly regularly in cold weather.
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I have a 2002 prius with 130,000 miles on her, and so far so good except for a small problem for the last three months, I get an intermittent P0171 code. I know it means Lean Condition in Bank 1. However, I can run the car for weeks without it coming on. If I go full throttle getting onto the highway for example it may come on, but even then its not all the time. Not sure why only full throttle. But if I drive her gently, I will never see the CEL at all.
Fuel economy is around the usual for me at 46-49 mpg with average speeds of 75-85 mph. I don't think its vacuum related.
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2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
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I've been having this problem since I've gotten the truck about year ago. it has very high long-term fuel trims and it seems no matter what I do I cannot get them to go down my fuel trims at idle are 39 Bank1 and 33 bank2 they go down to around 12>7 while driving what could this mean. And even weirder occasionally I get Bank 1 or bank 2 too lean codes at idle when cold starting???? 1997 Ford F150 4.6 ......
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I own a 1996 Mazda Protégé with 128,000 miles. I had it in for a check of a sewing machine sound. The mechanic tested it and found, among things, a "lean running condition". What does that mean?
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My 2000 ranger with the 3.0 is only getting around 10 or 11 mpg. It's got a check engine light on but the scanner just says lean condition. The truck also has a rough idle. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.
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What does this mean?? The o2 sensor(s) is reading lean?? 2001 F150 4x4 5.4
There was also an evaporator system code, but I think maybe someone left the gas cap loose? I unhooked the battery and it cleared everything. Truck started fine for a few tries. Will have it driven tomorrow to see if codes come back.
My reason for this is it was getting hard to start. I confirmed that fuel pump relay was not coming back on when cranking every time. Randomly it's fine, other times it won't start. Noticed it had CEL light, had it read at local Azone.
Don't know what to do about the "lean" issue? What would tell the pump relay to NOT turn on?
I removed the cover from the relay and inspected points, they were fine. Check with ohm meter=good. Watched it function without the cap on it. Would prime every time, but not come on when cranking every time.
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I am having a difficult time trying to fix my CEL issue, The vagcom scan says P0171 & P0174 Lean banks 1 and 2. I don't believe both O2's went out I have Checked and cleaned the MAF Sensor did a quick vacuum leak inspection and all seems good. I have a GIAC ST 1 and an AFE intake with noise pipe delete. I can reset it but it returns after a day or so.
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Well I got the ubiquitous "Bank 1 Too Lean" code this morning. Yesterday I changed out the PVC Valve, Elbow and Hose assy.
I changed out the hose from the intake to the canister purge valve on the firewall next to the master brake cylinder, that one was like dust.
Today I'm changing out the rear O2 sensors, but I may change out the fronts when they get them in (very rural area hear).
I'll keep looking for vacuum leaks and change out the MAF sensor. I hate to think it may be the intake....
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I got a CEL on my 96 4L EXT,130,000 mi. The guy that read it said it was lean mixture on bank 1. He also said a good start would be to pull the MAF and clean it and pull the EGR and clean and check it. I did that. While I was at it, I pulled the spark plugs, the IAC solenoid, purge solenoid. Going to also change the plug wires. Changed the O2 sensors 200 miles back.
I can't remember the code number. The items i have pulled and looked at seem to look OK. No plugging, if i connect a 12v source to the solenoids they react, if i pull vacuum on the EGR , the valve seat opens and closes. (Doesn't seal tight, but I wouldn't expect it to)
Question -----I pulled the DPF module mounted above but connected just below the EGR inlet pipe. How does this thing work? Is there a way to determine if it is faulty or not? It has two hoses in and a 3 prong connector on it.
FWIW---The best way I found to get the plug wires off was to push/pry "backwards" from the base of the boot, rather than pull for days until it comes off! Still a beast but a little faster I found.
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Explorer 2003 - 116 mi V8... Has been idling poorly at about 750 / 800 rpm never stalls in idle.
Check Engine Light came on - Read code said Too Lean Fuel Bank 1
Reset codes. After a couple hundred miles Check Engine Light
Once again Check Engine Light
Same error code Too Lean Fuel Bank 1
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My 04 Explorer 4.0 has been giving me the bank 1&2 lean codes. It is the fully electronic throttle body not mechanical. It seems from reading that in 04 is when they switched to the electronic version. Here are some things I have done to resolve this. I created a diy smoke machine from a paint can and air. I found a leak by the egr.
I replaced the egr and gaskets, along with the metal part that goes into the throttle body. I replaced the pcv and hose(although it looked fine). I replaced my intake gaskets. I replaced the MAF sensor.
Before all of this my lt fuel trims were +25 for both bank 1 & 2. After doing all of this my trims did come down a little to Bank 1 +16 and bank 2 +23. I dont know what to check next!
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I've searched for this and haven't come up with much other than the same error code for a bunch of other vehicles, and a bunch of different responses. My Tacoma is a 2000 PreRunner, 3.4 liter engine.
The exact code I get it is:
P1071
bank 1 system too lean
What this could be?
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I have a P0171 code (lean bank 1 sensor 1) on my 2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I don't have any other codes except for an unrelated P1780 neutral safety switch code. It has had both codes for over a year.
I have replaced the fuel filter, the upstream o2 sensor, and the PCV valve. I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The mechanic performed a smoke test and found no vacuum leaks. Did a fuel pressure test and it's normal. Mechanic thought it would be fuel pressure because the car starts a bit slow when cold, but nope. The car runs great and still gets great gas mileage. I've never experienced a misfire in my 12 years of owning the car. I am asking because I am at a loss as to what it could be.
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My truck is a 4x4 lariat, I've replaced both dpfe valve and egr, and the intake manifold gasket. Still getting the egr insufficient code. It went away from a few months after replacing the intake manifold gasket but has returned. Where do I go from here? I vacuum tested the egr and that's working fine. Should I buy ANOTHER DPFE valve? Where do I go from here I'm desperate.
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Brought home tonight a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L 24 Valve V6. Bought it from a mechanic who's customer didn't want to put any more money into it. Has 185000 miles on it and it throwing the P0303 & P0171 codes. Cylinder 3 miss and Lean condition bank1.
Mechanic thinks it is a valve seat in the cylinder head next to the fire wall. Before I start replacing the cylinder heads with new remanufactured heads I plan on doing a compression test and leak down test.?
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I recently had some work done on my 2001 VW Passat 1.8T (timing, water pump, major tune up). IT had 72K miles.....
Now I'm getting the following:
Code P0171 Too Lean (Bank 1).
Emission Light turns on / off.
Check engine light comes on and stays on after about 20 miles. Can this be the oxygen sensor?
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I have a rough idle. I have replaced upstream o2 sensors, plugs, wires, fuel filter, dpfe sensor, cam sensor, and cam synchronizer. This has only moderately improved my problem. I still have the right bank, left bank too lean codes. Could it be something as simple but hard to find as a vacuum leak?
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2003 F150 v6 2wd 170k ... For a year I've only had codes P0171 and P0174 (lean bank 1 and 2). I was told it wouldn't hurt anything... I think now I should have taken care of it.
Anyway 3 weeks ago my truck started running a little rough. It was sputtering and had trouble getting up to speed, sometimes also the air switches from vent to defrost until switch gears and rpms go down. It gradually got a lot worse over 10 days while part was otw. A week ago i changed MAF and cleaned the black thing it's inside of. It started running better but still not good. I pulled my small trailer 2 days ago and it got worse after dropping the trailer.
Today checked codes at AZ and lean codes are gone and have p0304 (#4 misfire) and p0316 (crank sensor problem). Is this related.? Also Right before all the trouble I changed battery and alternator. Also i read online that MAF needed 2 weeks to relearn the way I drive to get correct gas/air ratio? Is that correct?
Also I read so many different things I needed to do during installation... Some say I need to turn key to the on position after unplugging old MAF then plug new one in... turn key to on position 10 times, Rev up engine, drive it rough for the first 2 minutes... etc. Is there a correct way to do it or is it vehicle specific?
Should I start by changing spark plugs and coils? The guy i bought it from and trust said he changed spark plugs right before I bought it. Will it ruin truck if I drive it? I've read so much but everyone says so much different things on the same topic. I'd what to start with or if this is related.
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I am getting cylinder 2 misfire and lean fuel bank 1. change the coil and didnt fix the misfire.
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I have been getting a P0171 and a P0174 code lean bank 1 and 2 sensor 2. I have replaced all 4 censers the 171 is gone but I keep getting the P0174 and it only comes on when I am on the highway after driving around 10 miles or so i got a freeze frame of the data when it happen.
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