Phaeton :: Boot Keeps Re-opening When Car Is Locked
Nov 12, 2011
For a couple of weeks now, my boot keeps re-opening when I close it while the car is locked.
My usual workaround is to unlock the car, close the boot and only then, lock the car. However, yesterday evening, this did not work, i.e. I closed the boot then locked the car, but as the car locked, the boot decided to open on its own...
Tried it several times, and ended up leaving the car open (we were invited for dinner at friends of ours, so leaving the car unlocked was not problematic) as I preferred this to leaving the boot open...
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I'm having some problems with my tailgate (boot) handle. At the moment the boot 'intermittently' works with the central locking. If it doesn't unlock then I have to use the keyfob to open/close a few times before the handle opens the boot. Fortunately it works every time with the key. I must stress that I've never used the key in the boot. The boot lock is set to work with the opening/closing of the central locking. So this problem is NOT user error.
I have posted some pictures of the problem I've now seen with the mechanism. Ok so in the above picture, you can see that I've put a black arrow pointing at the 'latch' in it's correct position.
When you operate the central locking via the keyfob (or inside the car), it pushes the electrical popper (to the left) which rotates the mechanism CLOCKWISE, and in doing so, it pushes the LATCH across so that it can connect with the boot handle
In the following picture, you can see how the 'LATCH' isn't moving across to the position in the first pic. This is why my boot can't open with the central locking.
I must make clear that the electric popper is doing the job as it should. There is nothing wrong with it's function. The problem is the latch is not rotating (clockwise) into it's correct position. It can be moved by hand easily.
The problem could be solved by attaching a spring to the latch, so it pulls downwards. But I cannot understand why or what has stopped it from working as it should. The latch moves fine if you use the key in the lock, so at the moment, the only way to make it open is either open/close the central locking 10times, or use the car key.......
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I have just purchased a second hand Lexus Rx300. The boot isn't opening or closing automatically. It just beeps twice and makes a noise like it's trying to do something but that's as much as I get ?
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Okay, my keys are locked in my trunk. I called roadside assistance and they opened the car, but the trunk won't open with the button on the dash. The seat release levers are, of course, in the trunk, so there isn't a way in the trunk. Is there a way to get into the trunk and bypass the lock systems? It's a 2013 Sonata GLS by the way.
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Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
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Just noticed something strange. Haven't opened the boot for a few days and We have had some really heavy rain but today, when I did open the boot water, poured out between the carpet on the inside of the boot and the metal. Has water in the actual boot or is there some drain holes I need to check.
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Just picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
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Twice this past fortnight I've come down in the morning to find my boot open while the car is on the drive, and as I normally store around 600 worth of golf kit in there this obviously isn't ideal !
Either someone else's transmissions are opening it or, more likely, I'm accidently pushing the button as I fumble around trying to get two small kids and associated baggage through the front door.
Is there any way of disabling the key fob boot release without disabling the switch function of the VW sign on the boot ? I'm considering opening up the remote and removing the switch unless can think of a better solution ?
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I am a new Phaeton owner, 2004 v10 with the electric boot. I recently had the batteries run flat after leaving a charger in the 12v socket not realising it remained powered. After trickle charging the batteries for 3 days I cant get the boot to operate electrically.
I have scanned with VAG-COM and don't have any errors on the convenience module. The switch on the boot is not illuminated. If I press and hold the boot button on the keyfob the hazards flash but nothing happens. I have followed the reset procedure with no difference. Interestingly on the dash the car does not show the boot as open when it is up. It appears to be receiving no power but I can probe and have tried to reset the parameters of location 22 and 23 on the convenience controller and wouldn't expect access if there was no power. The boot mechanism was working perfectly before the battery ran flat.
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During swap over of winter to summer tires I noticed some holes in the drivers side (left) rear suspension boot (cover). I assume that it is the result of rubbing against the body during suspension compression.
Considering either outright replacement of the boot or a band aid (patch) solution, along with some relieving of the suspected contact area on the body.
Suspension is functioning well otherwise. Car has 170K kilometres.
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My Phaeton is approaching its 10th day at VW for a number of issues. Only the week before it was serviced and I was told everything was fine. At the service I asked them to look at the power boot and was told it was reset and working....
I took the car back as there was still a noise from the rear side under the car, sometimes when park was engaged the car did not sense it unless you fiddled with the lever whilst in park, the clock was slow and finally the boot would not open properly.
Specifically the boot issue was, When using either the button on the remote or the drivers boot release the boot tried to open around an inch and then immediately shut again. The only way to open it was to press open and then gently force it open. After fiddling for a while I realised that pressing the unlock then pressing the VW logo twice opened it sometimes! But not always.
Anyway VW cannot work out the problem and apparently their technical support has advised them to change the struts! I cant see how this is the issue .
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Phaeton w12 ... I put new inner and outter tie rods on and new dust boots (the accordion style ones).
I am getting popping noises when I turn from the boot. It's been going on for a couple months now. I tried swapping left to right, greasing them etc nothing works ...
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I'd noticed an oil leak drivers side and upon investigation it appears the rack has developed a leak. I lifted the car on the vehicle lift and when I did noticed oil pouring out of the boot surrounding the steering linkage coming from the steering rack. With the tires dropped the full amount this created a tilt of said boot allowing the oil that had filled the boot to drain out. My conclusion is the rack has developed a leak with the boot being full of oil.
I did a "steering rack" search but nothing of value appeared.
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I opened the boot via the door panel button. Loaded suitcases in and pressed button down on the boot lid.
The two hooks ( plastic and metal one ) directly came out and the boot lid did not move at all.
Tried a reset the whole procedure found on this excellent forum. but no result. I also tried to put my key in the boot lock and it doesnt want to lock or unlock.
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Why do my door squeak or groan upon opening but only when it's very humid? They are fine in low humidity. How do I fix this?
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Who knows how to fill the trunk hydraulics with oil. (Hydraulic pump) mine is make a lot of noise before opening the trunk. And does have a pause before opening and closing. So I guess it is low on fluids. And the hydraulics have some oil covered in the 10 years if use. When holding the pump in a better position the noise is less...
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I know this might sound completely petty (so much so that I daren't ask the service centre about it!), but the air vent cover on the driver's side has started making a thnk and judders when opening. When closing, it also closes more slowly than the others.
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I have a minor squeak opening and closing the driver's door. Any recommendation for the best lubricant to use on the hinges? Is WD-40 acceptable or are there better alternatives?
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I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
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I was driving my 2004 VW Phaeton V8 (USDM) and stopped at a corner in the neighborhood. I then started going around the corner, when the steering just locked up for no reason and the battery light came on. I then shut down the engine and restarted it, making everything ok. What happened?!?
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I woke up this morning to rain and a very sick Phaeton. The car is locked, however the headlights turned on automatically. The car has a smell of burning electrical components. The wireless unlock doesn't work, so I had to open the door with the key. This set off the alarm. I was unable to shut it off by putting the car key into the ignition. Now the key is stuck in the ignition. Various lights are flashing, but I cannot start the car. The batteries are less than 2 years old.
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