Phaeton :: Audio System Malfunction - Randomly No Sound Comes From The Speakers
Dec 18, 2008
So i've been having weird audio issues that seem to happen at random (three times in the past month), and have different symptoms. They all result in no sound coming from the speakers, however everything else functions properly. I can even switch audio sources and different tracks, but the audio system won't turn off and the volume won't change when changed on the steering wheel controls or by turning the knob. The first time this happened when i tried to turn off loudness and screen popped up that said the audio system was unavailable, this did not happen the second time. The problem fixes itself, when i turn off the engine take out the key and lock the car, and then start the engine again, it does not fix the problem. Only after i finish running the errand or park it in the garage does it function the next time i start the car up.
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We continue to be delighted with our 2008 V8, it's like having wings. I drove to England across France from Switzerland for 100 kms recently, had a wonderful day there and back. But when I play our iPod with WAV files through the sound system there is some distortion on loud notes, even at low volume. Strangely, when a young friend attached his iPod and then replaced mine, it did not distort. There is no distortion when using the CD changer or the Hard disk drive, but I prefer the large choice and full files on the iPod, given the great quality of the standard sound system. Now the sound distorts again when playing music on the iPod, and even if i detach the cable and replace it any number of times there is little difference.
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Have an early 2004 US Phaeton with the smaller sound system. Everything works normally on the system, but when putting some commercial CD's into the player can yield some really nasty clipping (clicking on drum-beats or other high-frequency sound) on the loudest sections. The clipping only occurs on the loudest sections, irrespective of how high the volume control is, and it only occurs when listening to the CD.
This is either a defect in the digital/analog converter in my particular unit, or it's a design defect with the whole series. For techies, the highest bit (#15) in the D/A is feeding an overload signal into the analog path of both channels. This symptom also could occur on CD's you burn yourself if you tend to record your CD's really loud (right up to the limit of CD dynamic range).
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I recently picked up and installed an OEM head unit for my 04 F350 XL SC/SB. This truck came with a basic AM/FM head unit and 2 front door speakers. Im not looking to do anything crazy, but now that I have a better head unit than just the AM/FM one I would like to wire in 2 more speakers in the rear doors. The rear doors already have the spots to install speakers, but I am assuming I will have to run wiring to the new head unit.
Will I have to find another plug to go from the new rear speakers to the head unit or is the single plug that is now running the radio have extra spots to accept 2 more speakers? This is the stock head unit. This is the better stock head unit
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All speakers on the driver's side of the truck are now cutting out. They will play good for a while,but then they will just cut out completely without warning. If I open and shut the driver door, they start working again for a while but will cut out again. Last week, I noticed that the drivers side rear speaker sounded like it was busted (crackling audio coming from it), but I haven't had a chance to bring it in yet to the dealer. Is it possible that the bad speaker could be causing the problem? Could it be shorting and causing the system to cut out on that one side?
Also, if the speakers are connected in series from front to back? Just trying to figure how the shutting of the door has anything to do, with it. I was thinking a bad connection at the door speaker and, if the speakers are wired in series, that would cause all sound on the drivers side to cutout and maybe opening and shutting the door jostles the connection just enough to make it good for a little while longer. Also, I am entertaining the thought that maybe the rear speaker IS the problem and the air being compressed in the cabin from closing the door makes the cone move just enough to break the short in the speaker and let the sound be once more. Also, wondering if this may be a head unit issue. Lots of ifs....
How hard is it to get the door panel off to check those connections? Also, anyone remove the stock headunit from the dash? I looked at it real quick and am not sure how to even begin. Now, I have gotten into the dash of every other vehicle I have had, but this one has me intimidated because I don't know how all the Sync stuff is wired in or what. Need to remove the headunit and getting the door panel off. Also, hy the speakers are cutting out... BTW, stock headunit is navigation with Sync....
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Both my front door speakers are shot. They are blown and sound like crap. I need to replace them so which speakers to get. I would like to replace the rear extra cab door speakers as well.
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First time ford owner so am not familiar with any quirks in the vehicle. Anyhow, about a year ago I replaced the head unit for the previous owner without any problems. All my connections are good and I rechecked them this morning. The problem is all the rear speakers cut in and out for no particular reason.
I have tested this even with the engine off just on acc. I have manipulated the wiring harness in the dash and I can't make it cut out or in so I am inclined to think something is that triggers a relay near the center armrest is the source of the issue. That relay is switching every time but I have yet looked into that. Is this a common issue?
The vehicle just had the BCM (I think that's what it's called on a ford) replaced because of a similar random relay issue in the right kick fuse panel causing the headlights to randomly flicker.
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I have a 2007 Lariat Screw
I've read that some people are replacing their door speakers like I want to do and reporting much better sound. My question is now that I realize I have the audiophile system, it is still worth swapping these speakers and will it be better sound? I bought 2 pairs of Pioneer TS-A6886R 6x8's.
I had a 98 Lexus GS 400 and I upgraded the stereo with an head unit, amp and all the door speakers and disconnected the subwoofer and actually liked how it sounded. I guess the upgraded speakers were so much better that the subwoofer wasn't needed.
So Should I try to bypass the factory tweeters and subwoofer and run everything into these newer supposedly better 4 way speakers in the door? Or just plug in the new speakers and let tem act as mid ranges?
BTW Do I need to remove entire door panel or just grills? It seems pretty straight forward for wiring. Anything I should know?
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I recently installed my satellite radio in my work truck. The truck is a 1999 Ford Louisville, tandem axle straight truck. I'm using the aux input on the stereo to connect to the satellite receiver. I'm getting a lot of buzzing thru the speakers. Gets worse when I'm using the phone charger and blower fan. I have it setup the exact same way in my other work truck which is a 2007 freighliner and have no issues. Is there any type of filter or something to solve the situation.
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I have a 1999 F-350 crew cab. I have a fusion active bass tube in the back, and my family went to Tahoe, so I took out all the bass tube but the wires had to be left in the truck. I thought I capped the wires but I guess I didn't or the cap came off. Anyways, I was plugging the wires back into the bass tube when I got home and there was a big spark, I think the ground wire and the wire connected to the battery touched. Now the radio does not work at all. I'm guessing I blew a fuse, I don't know how to fix it, or what fuse that would need to be replaced.
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on my sub amp the wire out got hooked up my wires to my car speakers while replacing the battery and it went boom and there was a smell of burnt electrical. Now I don't have any sound coming out all in my car. I'm trying to figure out if it is a fuse problem or if I blew out all of my speakers, but before this happened I disconnected the center speaker by the screen because I wanted a more stereo sound in my car. I reattached the center speaker recently and still no sound. I looked at the fuses underneath the steering wheel and I couldn't find any blown fuses.
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I have a 2007 ES350, Navigation, climate control, touch screen all works, radio powers on and functions as if it was working. back about 6 months ago the sound audio began having a mind of its own and working randomly, very annoying to say the least. Well, now it quit all together, no sound for a couple months now.
I am knowledgeable in the area of car audio, electronics, engines etc... I think this car has a factory OEM amplifier, although I have not located it in the car yet. I know the amp is getting power because I can hear a turn on thump when I power the head unit on and off.
So I think there is a cable/connector between the head unit and the amp that was loose causing the erratic behavior, and now the bad connection = no connection as if someone yanked the RCA jacks on an aftermarket system.
FYI, I already pulled the head unit from the dash and looked for any loose connections, found none, put the thing back together and am getting really frustrated with no sound.
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I recently purchased a 2004 CPO Phaeton V8 in Toronto (Canada) and have enjoyed every minute of it. But I noticed that my front speakers emit a crackling sound at certain frequencies (regardless how loud the volume is), especially when listening to CD's (but also while listening to the radio, to a lesser extent). It sounds a bit like old vinyls playing on a turntable . Before I take the car to the VW dealership (and either they think I am crazy or start messing up with the wiring and open a whole different can of worms ).
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One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
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Just got my new 2012 GTI with touchscreen radio, I think it's the RCD-510. I've noticed with my iPod plugged into the MDI, all of a sudden, i can't actually browse by artist or album. I was able to browse by artist a few days ago when I first got it (I know this because I was putting on some beastie boys in honor of MCD passing), but as of yesterday when I try to browse by artist or album, instead of getting the list of artists or albums to select, the radio just goes back to the screen that shows whatever song is currently playing.
For some reason, I'm able to browse by playlist and song, but to by artist or album. I've tried unplugging the iPod (it's an iPod touch) to no avail.
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I use Bluetooth to listen to music on my mobile......lately i have seen a issue while using google maps and music together....the audio sound of music sometimes goes completely low when both are being used, even if the maps has no audio output.......But sometimes the music output is loud as it supposed to be and only when there is audio output from maps the music shuts off and but goes back to high volume as expected....
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I have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
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I just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
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I just bought a 2014 Prius Three on Monday.
Yesterday, I accidentally hit the Voice Command button. It went to the screen and I got out of it. However then I couldn't hear any sound. The radio was clearly playing but no sound. When I pressed source it just showed a symbol in top right corner. I guess I should have thought to just turn the car off and restart because when I got home and did that, it worked fine.
My main question is about about the iphone 5, bluetooth, and Voice Controls.
I have bluetooth and Personal Hotspot enabled (so I do not have it plugged in to usb outlet) on my iphone enabled but it appears that I cant say "Play (Artist)" and have it play that from my iphone. It says something about an unsupported media device.
When I push the button on my Iphone and tell it to play a song, it does play a song but not the song I requested. It also shows on the car display that it is calling myself.
Voice commands for calling seem to work but I can't figure out if it is not possible to play songs using voice commands with an iphone or what the issue is.
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Well, I had my Treg back from the shop for two weeks (which is about my mean time between failures) and about a minute into driving last night listening to a cd a loud, scratchy, static sound starts coming out of the system.
It largely obscured, but did not eliminate the music. I switched to radio and got the same effect--can hear the radio, but barely over the static-like noise.
I will be getting rid of the beast as soon as there is a resolution to my lemon law claim, but I am told by my attorney that will take several more months...so I need to keep fixing my frequent problems.
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I have a 2015 XSE w/ JBL sound system. 14k miles. ALL sound from the radio (even the beep when you press the touch screen) will intermittently cut out - usually after I hit a small bump in the road. Once the sound is off it stays off for several minutes, then it might turn back on again or might stay off for the entire ride.
The dealer replaced the radio communication box - didn't fix it. Now the dealer is ordering a new radio head unit and will replace that. I'm concerned because this will be my 3rd time going to the dealer for this repair and I'm not sure they've really root caused the problem. I would have thought that the dealer would be able to track down exactly what was failing (either a system or wiring problem) before starting to attempt repairs.
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