Phaeton :: All The Dash Lights Activate But The Starter Won't Crank
Jul 11, 2014
I drove to work yesterday, all was fine. Got in the car at lunch time and NO START!! No "parallel" start!!! the car "wakes up", the wheel and tranny unlock, all the dash lights activate but the starter will not crank!!. I did hear 4 or 5 clicks coming from under the car on the first attempt but none after, this morning I heard the same clicks in the first start attempt then nothing after. Here is a scan:
Code:
Thursday,10,July,2014,14:01:01:08208
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212
[Code] .....
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Problem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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Used 2000 Town & Country is a great ride EXCEPT it occasionally will not start. All the electrical systems work except the starter does not activate. No connection to temp. Happens when cold or when hot. Sometimes cuts off when running and will not start. With the ignition in run position prior to starting, the check engine light does not light up and starter doesn't work. When in run and the check engine light comes on the starter will work and starts easily.
Sometimes in run position the check engine light is flashing and starter will activate for split second before light and starter quit. It's gone for months without happening and I fantasize that it has miraculously healed itself then it will happen once, or perhaps daily for a week. Sometimes wait +/- 1/2 hour and it cranks right up. Sometimes it won't crank for a day. Have replaced computer twice, various sensors (cam shaft sensor?...I'm not a mechanic) Our very competent mechanic won't let us bring it near his shop.
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95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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My car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
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Our 2002 1.8t wagon has developed an intermittent "no crank" issue. All dash lights operate as normal, but when you turn the key to crank, it doesn't. The dash lights change, as if it were cranking, but what it seems like is that the clutch lockout is not engaged - ie, it acts just like you are not pressing the clutch. But, you are.
I can't seem to find any consistent thing that causes it to start - I've tried quite a few things:
- stomping on the floor by the CCM module.
- jamming down the clutch
- pumping the clutch.
One thing, (i.e., it worked once) was cranking around on the steering wheel. Anyway, after half-a-dozen or a dozen tries, all while whacking aound on various parts of the car, it will eventually start. If you turn off the car, it will start right back up again.
So, this might be able to be described as a "cold" issue, but that's not entirely confirmed too. It's my wife's car, and when she tries to go somewhere with a 2yo and a 5 yo, and the car won't start. The obvious possible things are the clutch lockout relay, the ignition switch, perhaps the CCM - but there's no wetness on the floor or anything. Any easy way to check the clutch lockout? The dash makes it pretty impossible to get under there.
I should add, no MIL, no OBD codes. Don't have a vagcom, just a regular obd2 scanner.
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Having intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
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Is there any way to turn the dash lights completely out? I do a lot of night driving and would like to have complete darkness in the cabin. I'm able to do this in my pickup and find that I'm able to see deer, and other critters much easier without dash lights. Yes, it's important to see my speed, but most of my miles are cruise control. I also have an iPhone app that provides a brightness adjustable heads up display.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
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Feb. 2, 2010, I had my '04 Phaeton in for service (88,997 mi) because it would not start. After diagnosis, found faulty brake switch and shifter mechanism. Removed and replaced brake switch, shifter assy, and PRNDL sensor. On Feb. 17, '10, after I started car, it sounded like it was in wrong gear and all drives were lit on dash. Turned off, started again and everything was OK. Called service tech to let him know; he said he would notify mechanic.
On Fri., 19 Mar. '10 at around 2:15 p.m., was driving and noticed again that all drive lights were lit on dash. Pulled off road, turned off motor, started again, and everything seemed OK. Went farther down road, entered super highway, pressed accel. to pass tractor-trailer, only to notice all gears were again lit, as well as a new engine outline (in orange). As I was passing the truck, car surged forward and then made a loud clunk, I drove at 60 on the 70 mph rd. to get to rest area. Turned off motor, looked in manual and it stated car should be taken to dealer. Since it was still "drivable" and I didn't need a tow, I tried calling the dealer 4 times, but only got through to an answering machine. I decided to take car to dealer.
When I arrived, I spoke to the only service writer at the desk, and he was new. Told me they were too busy to take my car that day. I asked to speak to VW service manager, and he said I should not drive car. Car now has 91,509 mi.
I was wondering, why all gear lights keep coming on at the same time, and why the car feels like it has to shift to the next gear. I am thinking the repairs on Feb.2 were not complete.
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I have 1999 f250 powerstroke, batteries are fully charged but when you put key in ignition and turn you get nothing. No dash lights, no crank, nothing. I cleaned the battery terminals on both batteries, checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.
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How the rear, high center mounted brake light (ie "3rd brake light") intermittently lights individual bulbs, but never all at once. It was also causing an annoying "Check Brake Lights" warning plus beep on the dash (on every brake). Till I get it sorted I simply disconnected the 3rd brake light which completely turned it off and just gave me one warning/beep (instead of lots of them).
I spoke to VW about it yesterday and wasnt impressed by their attitude, so last night I tried plugging it back in to see if it was still the same now that my battery should be topped up due to change of house and longer trips. To my surprise at first it worked perfectly, all bulbs lit up.
However the more I tested, the less lights lit up. It was quite strange, they would "dance" on an off right in front of me. Wiggling the wiring had a small effect, but it didnt seem to be a wiring issue. So I plugged it out and left it was it was (disabled). However to my annoyance on my trip in today, I start getting repeated "Check Brake Light" warnings beeps (remember, its disconnected so it should do it once only) and even more irritating every time the warning came up on the dash the front left headlamp would flash on and off once! What the hell is going on with the lighting system!
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2004 with 214000 miles. Brake pedal goes to the floor, red dash lights are flashing, I just added a container of brake fluid and still no pressure at the pedal. I'm guessing master cylinder.
My question is: Even though my brake pedal goes directly to the floor, how am I getting the car to stop at the very end of the push? Do the brakes somehow work as a fail-safe even the the hydrolics are basically toast? I know that's a long shot, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been shocked over systems in this car.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?
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Drove to work had no issues, went to leave & noticed that the dash lights didn't light as normal when I turned the key over, then tried to start but it just cranked, checked the fuses all good under the dash & hood.
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2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
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What is the tire pressure that will trigger the TPMS to activate the warning light on the dash? I had 31psi in my left front and got no warning?
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Posting for a family member that owns a 2014 GTI; Wolfsburg edition iirc. There's so much information out there that's really confusing. Anyways, on the first position he can't activate the fogs still. Does he need to install trigger wire and VAG coding or?
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Wife's Tig had an issue with its rear doors. Dome lights would activate only with front doors. If you opened the rear doors only, no dome lights.
VW dealer says they found the issue, I disabled the DRLs via VCDS and now he states that disables the rear door dome lights. He even went so far to say that I had installed an "aftermarket" part in order to disable the DRLs.
Any example for disabled their DRLs and lost the rear door dome lights?
Wife's picking up the Tig now. I'm sure the DRLs are now working. I'll VAG it again to remove the DRLs and see if I lose the rear door dome lights.
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