Phaeton :: Air Suspension Line Cut During Tire Rotation
Dec 29, 2009
While I was having my tires rotated yesterday, the last floorjack was being lowered just in front of my driver's side rear tire when there was a noticeable hissing sound. The outer lip of the plate on the floorjack caught on the line going to my front suspension and the front of the car went down.
I'm borrowing a picture that Michael posted earlier and hopefully I've labelled the correct items in the picture. His previous red arrows were for pointing out the oval holes in the bottom of the car that can get damaged in towing.
The owner of the shop that did it drove my car slowly to the VW dealer that was within a couple miles. I've allowed them to do a repair to the line that meets VW specs. Some type of male/female brass connection that will save several hundred dollars on the repair that the tire shop will be paying for.
I'm surprised that VW placed the air lines so close to one of the lift points.
Is it possible to cause damage to the air shocks when they are lowered all the way down like that? I'm hoping not. I figured it probably was better to drive the car to the dealership instead of risking any damage that could have been caused by putting it on a flatbed.
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I found this thread in the Corolla forums and was curious as to what pattern people use here since I will be rotating the tires on my '07 Camry myself for the first time. The manual says to use Pattern D for non-directional tires, but my Civic manual and a few other cars I have looked up suggest using Pattern C, which make more sense to me as it would seem to provide more even wear on both sides of the tire by crossing them to opposite sides of the car.
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Second time I've gotten my tires rotated. 20k miles. It sounds like I drive a lifted 4x4 for almost 2k miles now. Service rep says normal, cause of camber, GTI tires, etc. Goes in Wed for 20k service.
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Understandably, I've been told I need to rotate my tires more frequently. I've also been told that when I have the tires rotated, they should be balanced as well. I have the skills (minimal) to removed a tire from one location and put it on another location, but I don't have the skills or equipment to balance them. Should I, in fact, balance them as well, and if so, how frequently should the rotation/balancing occur? This is a 2006 Honda CR-V with 75k miles on it.
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I had my 20,000 mile tire rotation and 2nd oil change done at 23,500 miles. Service tech suggested I still return around 25,000 for my last free rotation.
Does it make sense to do that, since I'd only have 1500 miles on the current rotation?
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My dealer says F-B and B-F only. Declined to put spare into rotation... 4 tires were rotated @ 5, 10, 15K. Don't see/feel any cupping yet, but would expect that next. Car was aligned around 5K, as was/is not 100% stable in direction, with slight wander. [no accidents/curb hits/pothole damage, etc.] Run 33-34 psi F&R, as rec by dealer [vs specs @ 32 psi]. Only 1-2 total people on board, mostly. At just under 18K on factory Michelins, getting some tire 'yammer' around 45 mph.Do you cross rotate?
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Cross X tire rotation pattern on Avalon as opposed to just rotating from front to rear?
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The 2010 Corolla Manual illustrates on page 329 pattern "D" as if to suggest we have "same size directional" tires. It is my understanding directional tires will have an arrow on the sidewall. If it doesn't have an arrow, it's non-directional and it doesn't matter which way it rotates. I don't see an arrow on my tires. Which of the following patterns are you using?
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Do we have to reprogram our TPMS to register the correct wheel to corner when we rotate our tires side to side?
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So I had a flat a couple weeks ago, finally got around to patching it (professionally) and decided to get a wheel alignment and tire rotation at the same time. No prior problems whatsoever (drove straight as an arrow) but roads in Hawaii suck so I decided to have it done while my car was in. Got my Camry back and it pulled to the right, with the steering wheel a little crooked to the right too. Talk about leaving something well enough alone, which is what I should have done!
Tried to take it back the next day, but they were super busy so I went to another location (same chain) and they said they suspect it could be my tires, but if not, they'll realign. They ended up doing the alignment again. My car pulls less but the steering wheel is crooked to the LEFT instead of right now when driving straight.
Question: Do you think it could be the patched tire? The nail was 1-.1.5" from the sidewall. This tire is on the right rear. Looks fine, and was fine up until I got a nail in it. Right front tire looks fine too.
I asked my mechanic, along with my cousin who worked with cars and did alignments himself in a past life, and they both told me they don't think it's my tire(s). They both told me to take it back and have the alignment redone.
Is it possible to just have two bad alignments at two different locations with two different techs?? The chain I'm going to is locally owned and has been around forever, and my last alignment was from them so I don't know what's going on this time.
* I have Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires all around, with about 20K miles on them.
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I drove for a couple days last week and got 60+ mpg (city, well known commute, amenable for pulse&glide). I rotated tires (or rather wheels) this weekend with unchanged tire pressure (~44psi). Today I only got 50 mpg on the very same commute. Is this just a coincident?
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Well, after the October snow storm where it took me 6 hours and alot of sliding around to get home, I decided to get all season tires with good snow traction. I picked up the Hankook Optimo H727 and had them installed at Walmart on 11/21/2011. Right away, my MPG dropped significantly.
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Had my tires rotated yesterday and now the car is pulling noticeably left. On a flat road, if I let go of the wheel I change lanes in about 3 to 4 seconds depending on speed. Also, the faster I am going, the worse the pull feels. Before the rotation, the car would pull very slightly to the right sometimes but only enough for me to wonder if it was pulling or if it was my imagination.
One other detail, the tire that is now on the left front is newer than the others due to a pothole eating the last one. It is the same hankook tire in type and size. Just with less miles on it. It was previously on the front right. I've seen the threads on the pulling issue and the 18 step TSB and all of that but nothing about rotation or the pulling following a specific wheel or tire. Could the rolling resistance of a newer tire really cause that much of a pull?
My issue is I am getting ready to leave for a road trip and can't get in for an alignment or for someone to go through the whole TSB. I think I might switch the 2 front wheels.
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Only had 2 cars with TPMS and the other one couldn't have the wheels rotated. So if I rotate the tires/wheels do I need to get the TPMS reprogrammed since the fronts will be on the back and vice versa?
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My new 2015 Subaru Forester calls for tire rotation every 6000 miles, which seems excessive to me.
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I had my the tires on my 2009 Prius rotated a while back. My car has 36,000 miles on it all on the original tires. It seems like my mileage dropped a bit since doing that. There are so many variables in mileage though, it is hard for me to pin it down to that. Could tire rotation affect my mileage?
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I just took my 2001 Honda Accord in for an oil change and tire rotation yesterday. When I left the shop, I noticed a wobbly noise coming from the front when I was driving on the highway (40 MPH+). There is no vibration in the steering wheel, but the sound is pretty noticeable. It wasn't there when I got to the shop. I have my tires rotated every 3,000-5,000 miles. Is this simply from uneven tire wear?
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I have a 1.5 year old Forester. I have rotated the tires twice now, and each time I notice some excessive tire noise after the rotation, for the next hundred miles or so. The tires look OK. Is this a sign that I need alignment? That is, the rotation is equalizing some uneven wear due to a misalignment?
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I took my suv in for tire rotation. the mechanic said my tires had cupped and if he rotated them they would roar. he said i needed struts. He did not rotate the tires. i took the suv to a "real" mechanic who dismantled something and said i did not need struts. He ask if my vehicle was pulling right or left, or if it seemed to "bounce" when going over a bump of any degree. I replied no, the vehicle does not do any of these things. So he rotated the tires and sure enough they roar. I drove a few thousand miles and had them rotated again. The roar is more loud than before. Just looking at the tires they appear fine with plenty of tread. Should I believe it is the tires or should i look into the roar coming from another problem.
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I have 2012 Tiguan, I just did a tire rotation as part of my 10k oil change. Afterward I started to hear a weird noise from front tires, especially when I was driving slow on smooth roads, I can hear tires make a noise every spin. The noise speed up with the tire speed. I do the oil change and tire rotation every 3k for my previous car, never had any problem.
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My local dealer had a special on an oil change, tire rotations, and break inspection and my 2011 Elantra GLS auto w/ 20k miles was due so I took it in.
After I got it back I noticed a noise I had never heard before when reaching speeds above 45mph. The best word to describe it would be "thumping".
I figured maybe due to the rotation the tires might need to settle in, but I've drove about 50 miles since getting it back and the noise isn't even slightly going away.
The worse part is my avg. MPG went from easily/consistently being 40+ down to low 38/high 37.
Should I just give it some more time or start to worry the service guys messed something up? Until today it's been the perfect car.
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