Phaeton :: After 15 Minutes Of Driving V8 Overheating
Feb 28, 2011
My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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I have a manual 2000 Honda civic that is acting up. When I drive it after about 15mins it gets really hot. Then right before I pull over it starts to cool off if I have the heat pumping . It also seem to over heat when ever I am sitting idle . I replaced the radiator and thermostat but I'm still having the problem.
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I am having overheating problems with my car, I had the car in the shop where they replaced the headgasket, got the head machined, got the radiator rodded out, checked the water pump, replaced the thermostat tried three different ones. The only way they could get it to run without overheating after doing all of this was to run it without a thermostat. I ran it that way for a couple of months, but it is getting colder where I live so I put a new thermostat back in it, now I am having the same problems, it runs somewhat OK while driving, it does not heat up right away maybe after 30 mins or so at city speeds, however at lower speeds it starts to heat up. If i put it in neutral and increase the RPM's the temp gauge will drop down.
After stopping I can feel the hose coming out of the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose is cool, so for whatever reason the thermostat is not opening, I drilled an 1/8" hole in the thermostat to let any air through that may be in the system. When I refilled the system I opened the bleeder screw that is above the exhaust manifold until antifreeze came out of it then I closed it and filled the rest of the way.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Outback Limited with 135K miles on it. In the last year, I had two complete head jobs (the second because the new water pump failed while on the highway). In addition, I have had multiple water pumps, lots of thermostats and a new radiator installed. The last thermostat is an OEM. The car had been running fine for about a month and now overheats after about 30-40 minutes of combined, but mostly highway driving. At first, the gauge would rise to about 3/4 and then drop after about ten seconds, but now it goes to almost red and drops to 3/4. If I blast the heat, it will drop pretty fast. My mechanic told me that while diagnosing an earlier overheat issue (just before the good period), he noticed that the gauge would rise, but the computer temp would remain stable. He tried a new sensor, but said it made no difference, so he returned it. What is left to replace?
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Today I had been driving about ten minutes when I got a "Check Gas Cap" warning, inclusive of beep and appropriate icon. Pulled over, switched off but left key in (this is equivalent to a warm boot in my experience), opened gas cap and closed again (it was fine). Turned engine on, got same message, remained on until destination (approximately 20 minute drive). Parked and locked car for approximately 2 hours (equivalent to a cold boot). When I turned on the engine again, the message was gone, and remained off for the rest of the day.
The car had been sitting unused in a heated garage for a little over two weeks, and the weather today was nice, sunny, a few degrees above freezing.
In my view, it clearly was not related to the classic "fuel cap not tight enough" problem of modern cars: for one, I had not just refueled (in fact, I have a little over half a tank). Also, I always tighten the cap until I hear at least a few clicks. SO I wonder if it might be an early warning that my maintenance battery is getting weak, i.e. spurious error message triggered by low voltage?
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When I drive 30 min the oil temp raises up to 110c and the coolant raises up to the redzone. And when I stop for a red light my front window get fogged all the way I can see barely anything.
Coolant is filled everything is okay. Only sometimes its really low or when the engine almost hit the redzone its a bit empty. No leaks nothing. Now my vds says 2 errors :
Fan 1 blocked
Fan 2 blocked
When the engine is warm the fan doesn't turn on none of them does, today at the local shop the worker did something and they started working but it doesn't turn on now its off and stays off is the fan switch dead? Is it really the the not working that's causing so much heat.
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My 98 Subaru only overheats when going above 60 mph for more than 10-15 minutes. When it does and I pull over,the cap has blown off of the coolant tank. After letting it cool off and adding a bit of coolant - it doesn't occur again and I can drive for hours at high speeds. I drive the car every day, up and over mountain passes and up to the ski hill and never have a problem any other time. I know subarus have a tendency to blow head gaskets, but wouldn't there be other warning signs?
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I've replaced the drain plug, filled up the radiator with proper coolant/antifreeze, turned on the engine then closed the cap to see the needle going fast to near the red mark. I turned off the engine and touched the cap with my finger but it was cold so I did the same with a hose, not hot.
Well, it seems the problem was not all circuit was filled. I did add more after a while running and now it is working normally (knock wood).
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I have a Civic that is overheating after even short drives (ca. 30 mins). Today the heat gauge went up to 3/4 after 20 minutes, and was still rising when I stopped. The radiator fluid is topped up, oil was just changed and is full and not cloudy. No white smoke has been seen out of the tailpipe. The following repairs have already been attempted. New thermostat (replaced 2X), new radiator, timing kit, coolant temp sensors (both), water pump, AC condenser, AC refrigerant. It is still overheating after all that. Why?
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'01 F150 XLT 5.4L EFI 207,000 miles
I've had this truck since '03 @ 45,000 mi and have loved it ever since. It hasn't failed me yet, until now. Living in TX with no A/C is the pits,
He first replaced the large hose assembly (with a non Motorcraft part) due to a pinhole then recharged the system. It cooled great until the pressure pop off valve (or whatever it's called) blew all the freon out.
His first suspicion was the fan clutch, which was replaced with a motorcraft fan clutch. Next he used his a/c machine to evacuate/flush/recharge the system - problem persisted. Lastly, he cleaned the radiator and condenser fins and recharged again. The system still overheated and lost the freon.
While the freon is in the system it cools like never before but after driving it, parking for a while, then re-starting it overheats within minutes.
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I just recently replaced the timing belt and water pump on my toyota celica 1996 st205 (5sfe engine) and now my car is overheating after roughly a 30-60 minute drive. the radiator seems to be overheating and boiling/forcing the reservoir tank out through the overflow hole. when refilling the coolant i had to use some water as the 5L bottle of 50/50 coolant i had wasn't enough. I cant see any leaks, i did see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off and engine running however i think that may be due to the reservoir tank being empty. I had never had this problem prior to the timing belt/water pump change.
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I have a 1996 BMW 328is and recently it overheated on the way to work which is about 20 miles i pulled over let it cool down and now when i drive the car after about 5 minutes it starts overheating and is loosing coolant but i am pretty sure its burning out the exhaust now the person i had bought it from had replaced the head and head gasket no more than 8000 miles ago with thermostat and housing and water pump and radiator so now i get no heat in the car both upper and lower radiator hoses rock solid and burning the antifreeze.
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Why is it that after 15 minutes of idling the coolant starts to boil up and spill and the car begins to overheat?
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I am trying to troubleshoot an overheating problem so that I may fix it myself. Not sure if it's thermostat, sensor, or a blockage.
'04 Jetta tdi with about 200k miles. Temp sticks at 190 usually for about ten minutes then starts to climb, varying between the 207-225F mark. Hasn't gone any higher, even in high 90sF ambient temps after 30mins driving. Holds fluid fine, pink G12 mix, and no bubbles or milky appearance to oil dipstick. Recently installed new AC compressor, txv and dryer so I imagine I can tackle thermostat or sensor if need be. Where to start?
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. A couple of months ago the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge quickly hit the roof. I was able to pull it into my mechanics shop before any damages was done. They looked at it and said I needed a new thermostat and housing. A few weeks later the temp gauge again went up to near the top. I live, work and shop all in a close radius so am not in my car for long periods of time but the gauge seems to measure high after about 20 minutes of driving in the city (no more than 45 mph) with the AC on.
I turned off my AC and took the car back. They then replaced the fan belt and clutch that engages the fan. Took the car home and two days later temperature was up again. Took it back and they said they had not realized my car had a second thermostat so they changed it (at no additional charge "since they didn't catch that up front") - they kept my car for 2 days. A couple of days later the scenario replayed itself. I took it back in they changed the sensor to the temp gauge (at no additional charge) tested it and still overheated so now they have now also flushed radioator 3 times for any debris. They have had my car for three additional days now.
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This is what its doing... Im starting to feel lost about whats wrong. I start it up and everything is fine. With in about 10 minutes it starts to bubble and spit out a little water then shuts its self off. And the gauge on the dash never reads above 190. And the fans don't come on unless i turn the ac on. And the ac still blows cold. The lower hose stays cold. I just replaced the thermostat and the water pump. But it changed nothing. Im thinking maybe its clogged somewhere. Maybe in the heater core or the radiator.
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My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
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Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
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On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
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