Phaeton :: AC Condenser Removal - How To Keep Refrigerant System Clean
Jan 4, 2016
Started working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
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I'm thinking about removing my perfectly functioning HV Battery to inspect it for corrosion and clean if necessary. I read so many posts both here and elsewhere that talk about corrosion being the number one reason Gen I HV Batteries fail. With that in mind, does it make sense to clean the corrosion off the battery (and related components) in an effort to extend the life of the battery.
The car is an '01 with 109,XXX miles, original traction battery, new 12V battery. The car has been very good to me (I believe that's due to steadfast preventative maintenance). There are no error codes and really nothing to complain about.
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Buddy is fixing his 6.0 2005 F450 with a blown turbo. Diagnosed by the dealer, but decided we could fix it ourselves. The dealer quoted a turbo and to pull the charge air cooler and clean. It looks like the turbo job is not too bad to do, but how big of a job is the R&R of the charge air cooler?
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I have a strange problem with my 2001 Santa Fe GLS that I can't put a finger on.
With my AC running, whenever the condenser fan (the one on the driver side) comes on, the electrical system seems to short out briefly (1/2 sec) - all lights go dimmed, the vehicle bucks - very scary when driving. Sometimes the engine sometimes shut off if idling.
I've changed the AC compressor (twice) and changed the entire condenser fan assembly to no avail.
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I'm looking at 2010 Prius III. It doesn't have the Nav package.
What options are there that could add a good, clean backup cam and Nav system? Also, are there any aftermarket solutions for a "whiter" headlight?
In non-projector cars, I know you can get whiter bulbs (higher kelvin), but not sure about in the projectors.
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I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
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I have a 2004 VW Phaeton.
Today, the sound system failed, then shortly after, the navigation system failed.
On the console, if I press any map/navigation buttons, the error message "Navigation System Unavailable" is displayed.
If I press an audio related button, the error message "DSP system is unavailable". I took it to a private vw repair shop and a vw dealer. What was causing the issue.
I am now headed to a vw dealer with certified phaeton tech. I looked towards fuse issue, but they appear to be ok..
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I need to remove the passenger side rear view mirror. To do so, according to the workshop manual, I will have to remove the interior door panel first. Is that right or are there any shortcuts?
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How to remove the sunroof shade/screen? The headliner on my shade is falling down. I'd like to remove the shade for repair. I'm hoping the entire headliner does not need to be removed.
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I'm working on replacing my center console with a wooden one. I'm having trouble getting the center box (under the arm rest) removed; I found the 4 screws in it but I'm having trouble getting the cigarette lighter / power adapter out. The outlet doesn't seem to push forward like, say, the one next to the shifter lever. Nor does it seem to unscrew. Am I missing something obvious?
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What would be involved with removing the keyless entry system on my '02 F150 XLT so that I can install it into my '97 Explorer that I am fixing up. Is it integrated into the main computer or is it a totally separate system? If so where is it located?
The Expo already has power locks just not keyless (or at least I never received the key fob for it when I bought it) I have shaved the door lock cylinders and am fabricating handles to be hidden in the window moldings.
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After disconnecting my am/fm/cd factory unit in my 2014 F250, my outside thermometer does not work. The digital readout has three dashes and an F instead of numbers. What is the fact that the stereo controls the thermometer? Is there any way to deactivate this, so that I don't have to stare at ___F? I'd rather that it just is blank. Is this the same result that other aftermarket stereo installs have got???
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I just got a 1994 F150 with the 5.8L motor its a 4X4 with Auto trans. I have the dual tanks set up, midship and aft-axle and both tanks leak, more aft-axle then front. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove and install these tanks and what are some tricks to solve the problems I'll run into?
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I've got a friend who had a leak repaired on his '98 Chevy S-10 pickup but didn't have the system recharged. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and told him I would pull a vacuum and recharge it for him, but he doesn't know the refrigerant capacity and I don't have manuals on this model. What is the capacity? I'm figuring 1.5-2 lbs but would like to know exactly what's recommended by GM before starting on it so I can tell him how much refrigerant to buy.
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My AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
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2016 Hyundai Sonata SE
6000 miles, 3 months old
2.4 GDI engine, auto trans
Variable-Displacement Compressor (no clutch, anyway, so that's what I'm assuming)
Is it OKAY to drive the car without refrigerant to circulate lubricating oil, or am I going to be looking at a new compressor in a few years?
A week ago, a grasshopper put a hole in the condenser. Yes, a friggen BUG, complete with bug guts and wings stuck around the tiny dent and pinhole. I'm arguing with Hyundai over the warranty coverage, they say "outside forces" and I'm saying "defective part or crappy engineering"...
The dealer's service writer said there would be no problem driving the car while we wait for parts, as long as we didn't turn the AC on. Okay, it's not summer anymore, but doesn't the compressor want to be on in DEFROST setting? Supposedly the system won't try and turn on the compressor if it's low on charge, but...being a variable displacement compressor with no clutch...
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if I start my car and leave it in park and turn the air on max, on the 1st or 2nd fan setting, I usually get no cold air, its just normal temperature. if I begin to drive for a bit the air turns cold, then if I stop and park, the air usually stays cool sometimes.
however, last week we had a heatwave here in SoCal and it was around 100 or so, and my car was outside for a while. I started it up and the air was not blowing cold for quite some time, I had to drive for a while to get it going.
I drive mostly on the highway and my A/C works fine but I noticed hiccups like these here and there and want to know if its something I should look into before it gets worse
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My 01 excursion is leaking refrigerant. Added UV dye, and still can't find leak. It takes about 5-7 days to lose charge.
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I'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
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About a week ago the MIL came on and a VCDS scan (below) shows DTC P0171 & P0174 System Too Lean - MIL ON. I cleared the codes and the MIL came back on twice over the last week, both times with the same codes. I cleared the codes each time and it takes a while for the MIL to come back on. The car runs very good at speed but it has what feels like a little misfire at idle. This is especially noticeable when in gear, it seems the rpm drops a little bit every few seconds, but the time between those drops is not consistent. I made two videos to show this, see below.
I looked up the codes in the Bentley manual and it suggests the following:
SAE VAG Description
P0171 16555 System Too Lean Bank 1
Exhaust system
Exhaust system components, removing and installing
Fuel injectors
Fuel injectors, checking
[Code] .....
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2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
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