Phaeton :: AC Compressor Regulator Valve N280 Faulty
Jun 8, 2015
Its been a while as my phaeton was running fine until now. My A/C usually works fine but after few mins it blows warm air. if I turn off the car and start back in 2 mins then the A/C blows cold air again. I did the scan and it showed me "00445 - Loss of Refrigerant" so I took it the dealer for a refill. Technician checked the refrigerant pressure and it was full. I verified fuse 66 is fine. It turns out that the compressor shutdown is due to faulty regulator Valve N280. Some days the cold air is fine with out any issues but some days the problem is intermittent. so I believe I don't need to change the compressor or refill the gas. VW sells the complete compressor which includes the regulator valve. Where can I buy the regulator valve N280 separately for the correct compressor model and what is the type of compressor model in our phaeton ?
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The warm air came back again while I had my A/C on, after only a month from taking care of a leak and adding refrigerant. Cold air came back again after parking the car for few hours and also a day after.
My tech told me that the refrigerant level is fine and the problem might be within the compressor regulating valve or the unit it self. He recommended replacing the compressor.
Had a compressor failure or had a this problem and it went away after replacing only the regulating valve.
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I recently bought a 1999 VW Lupo (essentially a two door Golf) with 30000 miles on it. My mechanic suspects it sat idle for a long time. Recently the check engine light went on, warning of a faulty idle regulator. What effect would you expect to see as a result ?
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Going to attempt this repair myself to avoid paying the stealership. Previously drove an E46 bmw which by now I am an expert, but am not yet familiar with my VW.
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I just picked the car up at the dealer, after having had the new window regulator installed.
They were just closing service and I didn't think to test the window before I left the lot, but on the way home I put the window down... nice and smooth and quiet.
Then I put it up and there was a loud thunk at the top of the travel. I tried to capture it in the attached video but it isn't nearly as "bass-y" as it is in person. Crappy mic on the phone I guess.
My other three windows have a very soft sound as they reach the top of the travel, nothing like this thunk. What it might indicate?
Video here: [URL] ....
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I was away from the Phaeton for 2 weeks and managed to let the battery run down to totally dead (left Radar detector on). Started her up on the secondary battery and everything seemed fine, but, a few days later, I had occasion to put down the drivers window - no joy. Tried the passengers window - again no joy. The rear windows were fine. When I try to operate the window I hear a short sound like the window is starting to open, but nothing happens and the glass does not move. Because it is so unlikely that both front windows would fail simultaneously, I suspect a controller may need to be reset. Is there any way to trouble shoot this without a VAG COM?
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I was driving yesterday evening when my car started to cut out, it kept restarting as I was doing 70 on the motorway. So I decided to pull over.
I restated the engine and all seemed fine. Until another few miles down the road To my driveway where it again cut out.
As it stands now it will start but cuts out after a minute or so and will not re start unless I take the key out and keep trying.
I had the car scanned by a mobile mechanic who told me my steering column was the only thing that scanned up. Which made sense because a few days ago an airbag warning came up and stayed up.
I have read up a bit about the steering column on the passats which have the exact same symptoms of cutting out the engine. Could this be the same with the phaeton?
The car is a petrol 3.2 litre that also has an lpg conversion. I don't know if this makes any difference?
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My water drain valve in my gas cap isn't draining and must be clogged or something. I tried sticking a paper clip down it but that didn't do it. How to unclog this or get to it?
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I have difficulty starting after I fill the tank (usually to about 3/4 fill, not topping off.)
I searched the forums and noticed the evap. system N-80 purge valve may be the culprit. Other VW's have the issue including one thread on a Touareg.
I think I'm the first with this issue on a Phaeton. Sometimes getting loose gas cap faults too and on occasion a CEL. I had a fuel pump replaced last week, but this problem predates the pump failure.
Does this sound like the issue here? Doesn't it throw a code? I'm wondering why they didn't discover it when the diag'ed the bad fuel pump.
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I had a very slow oil leak that dripped onto the garage floor and i brought it into the dealership. They said it was a leaking left valve cover gasket; I searched and came up with nothing? The engine has just over 30K miles on it.
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Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
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I have a 2000 Integra and now that it's cold I have a hard time starting it.The battery will run down before it starts.I replaced the plugs and it started right up.They were gas soaked.But again after sitting for awhile in the cold it wont start.Once I get it running and warmed up it runs great.Once it's running can pinch the fuel return line and it will shut down.Is this normal?It seems to be sending a lot of gas back to the tank.I think the fuel pressure regulator may be bad.I dont have afuel pressure guage to check the pressure but reading articles on the web about not starting and when it does start it bucks and dies I think the regulator is bad.
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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This procedure explains how to remove the driver side, rear door panel, test the power window motor and switch and replace the power window regulator assembly.
Tools Required: #2 Philips screwdriver, small slot screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, jumper cables, set of test leads with alligator clips, DC voltmeter.
Cost: In the end, I did not end up buying a new window regulator assembly, but I think a "Dorman 741-356 Rear Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Toyota Camry" would work.
1. Locate the anchor (red arrow). Push the center in and then pry the anchor out with a slot screwdriver.
2. Remove ashtray, pry and remove the rubber liner and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
3. While pulling the door handle, carefully pry the plastic trim piece away from the door handle bezel and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
4. Pushing the door trim piece forward, pry the rear upward. Note that there is a plastic tab (red arrow) at the front of this trim piece, so it is necessary to lift it from the back to avoid breaking it.
5. Squeeze the electrical connector to remove it from the socket and then set the trim piece/switch assembly aside.
6. Remove #2 Phillips screw (red arrow).
7. Remove two #2 Philips screws (circled in red) at the bottom of the door.
8. Grasp the bottom of the door panel with your fingertips and gently, but firmly pull outward to disengage the 9 snaps on the door.
9. Lift the door panel upward to unhook it from the door. Carefully set the door panel on the ground.
10.Pull the white plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Pull the green plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Gently set the door panel aside. %
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i have a 99 passat and one of my windows doesn't go down ( drivers side in the back). i can hear it making a sound like it wantes to go down but the window doesn't budge. could it be the regulator??
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I have a 1992 toyota celica gt with the 2.2L motor. i need to know where is the fuel pressure regulator location? I keep looking and I can't find it.
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Hit a bump in the road, car hiccuped then EPC and MIL illuminated. Scanned it with Carista and showed low fuel pressure. Looked under engine cover... Lo and behold! Connector is plugged in but male portion on regulator is snapped off!!! Needs whole fuel pump assembly at 25,000 miles!
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I took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would get to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
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Does a 1990 chevy truck have a fuel regulator, 5.7 efi? if so where is it located?
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I have an Accel Gen vll EFI setup on a 59AB and plan on using a pressure regulator but it has a vacuum inlet fitting. I'm assuming it's to allow for more pressure on acceleration. When the vacum drops more fuel will be allowed into the fuel rail is my guess.
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Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
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