Phaeton :: ABS Warning Light On After Wheel Bearing Replacement
Mar 8, 2015
I had the drivers side rear wheel bearing replaced and now the ABS warning light is on. The shop also replaced the wheel speed sensor. The car appears to drive fine and the brakes work fine, although without ABS. The light does not come on immediately upon start up. It normally will appear after the car is driven a bit, could be a few hundred yards or a mile.
My first thought is that whatever it is that serves as a "trigger" for the speed sensor got damaged during bearing replacement. I don't know what this trigger is, or exactly where it is located, presumably in the hub.
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I replaced the driver's side wheel bearing on my 2001 venture and now the ABS light goes on about 5 to 10 seconds after starting the car. It stays on through out the drive. Before the light goes on I get a sound as if passing your fingers up and down an old fashioned washboard. I have read throughout these threads to replace the bearing but I don't foresee that happening. How can this bearing be bad when the car feels great driving now.
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My 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.
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My 2005 GMC Sierra has just >80,000 kms on it, and I'm having to replace a second wheel bearing hub. A few months ago, the rear left wheel almost came off because the bearings were falling out of the hub. Yesterday, the same thing happened while traveling on a highway with the front left wheel. While my truck was being pulled up onto the tow truck, all the bearings fell out of the wheel - one was completely ground, the others were perfect. A few more turns or bumps and I suspect I would have lost the wheel.
I didn't have any grinding noises with the front tire (although I did with the rear) - the front hub deteriorated really quickly (within 100kms of driving), and it sounded like cables snapping while driving which was likely the bearings tumbling around.
Having problems with the GMC Sierra wheel bearing hubs/integrated ABS sensors? Should the hubs be wearing out so quickly? It seems like a safety hazard to me, since there wasn't any early warning signs of a major hub meltdown.
And I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I've also had to have my rotors ground down 3 times and replaced once since new.
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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I have sonata 2006 v6 3.3. Over the weekend Left rear wheel bearing was replaced. Right after the replacement ABS + ESC OFF lights came on and stayed. I took the battery connection out and restart the car but no difference. There is no affect on driving or performance car drives normally, Cruise operation works normal as well. Mechanic scanned and scanner showed right real wheel sensor malfunction. He claimed that he didn't even open the right rear wheel. I am hoping it's not the sensor.
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2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...
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I m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
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My dealership said our left rear is noisy and that we need new wheel bearings and a speed sensor and to do an alignment and balance. I called my other wheel place and they are about $300 cheaper. But, they said I have the option of an OEM wheel bearing or different one. I'm a little confused, but I think the OEM would be about $85 more, if I understood correctly. Whether or not to get OEM for this?
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I have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.
Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
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Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.
Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.
Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.
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I'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
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I have a 1993 Toyota Celica GT I removed the strut tower to replace the upper tower mount and replaced the wheel bearing. my problem is that when i torque the axle nut tight the tire can be moved by pushing it up or down.
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My question is what could cause a wheel bearing and CV joint to fail immediately after a clutch replacement and a general inspection?So I brought my 2014 focus with under 50000 miles in due to the normal transmission issues with clutch chatter and hesitation. Also asked them to do a general inspection to come current on my warranty requirements and address a feeling of the car feeling lose into turns sometimes (I thought maybe it is just me getting used to going to summer tires from winter). So they rebuild the clutch and i finally get my car back four days later with a clean bill of health and them unable to recreate the lose sensation in the steering during a test drive.
So fast forward four five days and under 200 miles driven and I had a rapid failure of my front driver side wheel bearing and cv joint. It was fine the day before then after 20 miles of driving it felt like it was about to go. So this is everything I noticed about my car after I got it back:Transmission felt great. No chatter and fast to respond. When I would turn into a parking spot or pull out of one I would sometimes here a clunk (that had never happened before) Drove fine. It rained the day before the failure (not sure if that could contribute) but when I got on the road the next day the wheel went bad very very fast and the rubbing became so severe I limped to the nearest cellphone reception. A 79mile tow later I am back at the dealership who replaced that the wheel bearing and CV. (my car is actually back there right now because they left a bungee cord attached to the coil and it started to make the clicking rubbing noise so I called them to tow it).
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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I got the dreaded "stop, too low" warning this morning on my 04. It went up when I started the car, so I figured it must be a leak and not the compressor. Well I just tried starting it again and now it won't go up at all.
I recall seeing a Phaeton for sale online where the owner replaced the air suspension with coilovers. I've been searching online for any info on such a conversion, but I haven't found anything.
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I got a "Defective Wheel" warning from my TPMS system today. I haven't had a chance to check the pressures today, but they look fine. I had gotten a couple intermittent "Flat Tyre" warnings over the last few weeks. Those would appear briefly then go away. This warning came on and stayed on. I doubt it is simply a pressure drop from cold weather, because I would get the "Check Pressures" warning when that happens. I had never seen either of these two warnings before (Flat Tyre or Defective Wheel). Should I assume that one of the sensors has failed in a wheel?
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Came out of church this morning to a "Defective Wheel on Board" warning - of course these warnings only happen on weekends or when I am far from home.
From searching the boards and reading the manual, this seems to tell me that I have a tire that is going flat. I checked the air pressure in each of my tires (including the spare). I was down about 2 psi in the right front, but all others were right on. I went to add air to the right front.
I checked the pressures before going out later in the day and they were all still up. While turning in to a parking lot, the "Flat Tyre" warning displayed. I parked the car - nothing looked flat. Checked the pressure in all tires (including the spare) and they were still at the set intervals.
Went to do my shopping and 30 minutes later I was back to the Defective Wheel warning, but not the Flat Tyre warning. Drove home, checked all the pressures - everything still fine.
Just wondering about everyone's experience with this warning. What is the possibility that I have an issue with a monitoring system versus the tire? I bought the Phaeton used at 20k miles and now have 26k total on the odometer.
Does the warning code need reset by a VW tech if I go elsewhere to replace the tires? Although I think given the lack of any apparent issues with the tires, I probably need to take in to the dealer.
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