Phaeton :: A/C Throwing Warm Air - Compressor Regulating Valve?
May 4, 2015
The warm air came back again while I had my A/C on, after only a month from taking care of a leak and adding refrigerant. Cold air came back again after parking the car for few hours and also a day after.
My tech told me that the refrigerant level is fine and the problem might be within the compressor regulating valve or the unit it self. He recommended replacing the compressor.
Had a compressor failure or had a this problem and it went away after replacing only the regulating valve.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Our 2007 Passat 2.0T had the 30K service and the fuel pressure sensor and pressure regulating valve (PCV valve) recalls done several months ago. Several weeks ago the check engine light came on so we took it in to the dealer yesterday. By the way, the car also felt subtly sluggish, had a slightly unstable idle and sometimes seemed to "stick" in gear on deceleration (ie, not shift down normally).
Here are all the DTC codes that were stored:
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P2187, P2279, P3138, 02635
The service adviser said the problem was that the recall valves that VW sent them were no good (I think he said it was the -F valve) and that they now have an updated valve.
The new part number is 06F-129-101-K
By the way, our Passat is driven "conservatively," ie, no high boost levels or anything else that would stress the PCV valve.
View 7 Replies
Its been a while as my phaeton was running fine until now. My A/C usually works fine but after few mins it blows warm air. if I turn off the car and start back in 2 mins then the A/C blows cold air again. I did the scan and it showed me "00445 - Loss of Refrigerant" so I took it the dealer for a refill. Technician checked the refrigerant pressure and it was full. I verified fuse 66 is fine. It turns out that the compressor shutdown is due to faulty regulator Valve N280. Some days the cold air is fine with out any issues but some days the problem is intermittent. so I believe I don't need to change the compressor or refill the gas. VW sells the complete compressor which includes the regulator valve. Where can I buy the regulator valve N280 separately for the correct compressor model and what is the type of compressor model in our phaeton ?
View 9 Replies
I drive a 1995 3.1L V6 Pontiac Grand Am SE.
My mechanic told me that my EGR valve was throwing a code, so I took it off and cleaned it out and tried to fish out some of the carbon in the air intake tube. I used carb cleaner on the valve and the tube and I sprayed a little bit of air duster into the tube, but it made a funny noise so I stopped after about 1 second of spraying.
When I put it back on, I forgot to snap the wiring harness back onto the top EGR solenoid. I reconnected the negative battery cable and started my car. The gauges red fine. I revved my engine a few times and everything seemed okay. Then I turned off my engine and then turned it back on to listen for any rough idling (that's why I decided to clean the EGR in the first place). Then I turned it off.
When I got out of the car, I realized I forgot to reattach the wiring harness to the EGR. I disconnected the negative battery cable and it sparked a tiny bit. I reconnected the wiring harness to the EGR. Afterwards, I noticed that it had leaked some fluid (I'm guess oil?) into my engine. There was a very small amount of light smoke or steam (not sure which), but it stopped a minute or two later. I've attached a picture for reference.
Is it safe to reconnect my negative battery cable and try restarting my car????
View 4 Replies
A couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
View 2 Replies
My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
View 4 Replies
I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
View 2 Replies
My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 A/C started blowing warm, so I checked all the fuses and they were good. Swapped the relays and still nothing so I check the wire to the compressor and it was reading 14v. This would lead me to believe the a/c clutch is bad, I didn't want to replace just the clutch incase my compressor craps out on me later on so I'm just replacing the whole thing now. My questions is how much oil does a new compressor need?
View 3 Replies
98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
View 10 Replies
To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
View 3 Replies
Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
View 10 Replies
Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
View 1 Replies
My A/C was blowing warm air so I purchased a can of A/C PRO at a local parts store a couple weeks ago. My system was so low the compressor would not come on. I put a 20oz can in and the compressor started working. I let the truck idle for the recommended fifteen minutes, the air was not so cold anymore, and the gauge was reading low.
So, off I went to the parts store to buy another can. It is in the correct range on the gauge now. I was wondering how accurate the gauge was on this can so I had a friend hook up his professional A/C gauges and it was reading the same as the one on the can. I took the truck for an hour drive last weekend with the family to a lake for a picnic and noticed the A/C started blowing a bit warmer air, so I shut it off and rolled down the windows. I have noticed after all this my compressor does not cycle off and on, it just stays on even when the ambient temp is 65 degrees.
I checked the pressure yesterday and it is holding in the correct range still. I am wondering about the air gap in the clutch so I borrowed my neighbor's feeler gauges today and checked my air gap. It was about .037" so I removed the clutch and took out the only shim. Put it back together and it is .021" ran the truck and the clutch did not turn until I turned on the A/C, then it engaged. Hooked up my low pressure gauge and checked the pressure and it read 24 psi with the fan on low. The ambient temperature at this point is 70 degrees.
I put a meat thermometer in the vent closest to the steering wheel and after just a couple minutes, it was reading 40 degrees. I turned the fan on high and noticed the pressure went to 35 psi and the temperature in the vent started to rise. I turned the fan back down to low and the pressure dropped back to 24 psi and the temperature went back down to 40 degrees. I noticed the clutch still is not cycling it just stays running. I left the gauge hooked up to see what the pressure was off and it read about 94 to 95 psi.
View 4 Replies
Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
View 7 Replies
With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2007 SantaFe Limited with 40k miles on it, first thing in the morning when I start it up there is what I can describe as an valve or lifter knock and it continues until the engine gets warm then all is fine. Oil and filters have been changed on a regular schedule,,,,,is this normal??
View 23 Replies
I'm having some trouble regulating the cabin temp in my 2002 SC430. It's cold outside here in Atlanta (in the 30's in the morning) and for some reason even when I have the temp set on 66 (not in auto mode) the cabin gets really hot! If I drop it to 65 the AC comes on. It's just weird.
Not sure where the temp sensor is located (will check the manual for that) but having a problem regulating the cabin temp. If put it the auto mode -- it ramps the fan up to high and cooks us all inside the car.
View 14 Replies
When ever the car stops at a traffic light or stop sign, the air compressor cycles rapidly and the cool air turns warm. I was told the cooling fan was not coming on, but the other day the fan was cycling and the cool air stayed cool. My question is what controls the cooling fan operation? It seems the high pressure switch is working correctly and the fan motor is working. As long as I'm driving the air is cool.
View 2 Replies
1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
View 4 Replies
My water drain valve in my gas cap isn't draining and must be clogged or something. I tried sticking a paper clip down it but that didn't do it. How to unclog this or get to it?
View 4 Replies
I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
View 1 Replies
