Phaeton :: A/C Malfunction - No Air From Vents - Thermostat Went Up To 126 Degrees
May 11, 2007
I was driving for work in the Coachella Valley (Palm Springs) today - it was 109 degrees. I hop in the car after a work visit, the vent covers open, but nothing comes out. The fan is blowing full blast - but no air was coming out of any vents. I tried manual mode, foot, defrost, off, etc. to no effect. I reset the climate system, reset all, no dice. Soon, the fan turned off, paused a couple seconds, then turned back on again and tried again to the safe effect. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on. Nothing. Drove to my next stop and parked. I came out, started up again - this time air comes out of the vents, but it's hot.
I took the car to the nearest VW dealer, and the foreman came out with his diagnostic tool (the big one - not the VAG-COM) and told me their were 23 faults with the air conditioning system.
One other interesting thing - my thermometer was going nuts at the same time. It was 109, but the thermometer quickly went up to 126 degrees within a few minutes - the engine temperature went up or got hot.
The good (?) news is I don't think this would have been covered under warranty, because their aren't any broken parts - just needs a recharge...at least that's what it looks like now.
The early diagnosis is that I need an A/C recharge, and if the refrigerant gets even a little low, the entire system shuts off.
View 15 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U XLT, 4WD 6.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl that I'm trying to put A/C back in. The truck had factory air, but the evaporator is the only original part in this setup (along with the controls inside the cab on the dashboard).
The new compressor is working. All the pressures look good (the low side is around 35 to 40). But we're finding that the air out of the vents is only dropping 20 degrees max. We've checked to see if the blend door was not working and it was getting heat from the heater core. We blocked off the heater core completely with the same results. It just doesn't seem to be getting cool enough. The large fittings on the firewall should be cold (maybe 40 degrees), but it's only cooling to about 79 degrees, about a 15 degree drop.
We cannot see into the evaporator box to see if there is an expansion valve in the system, but we did not put an expansion valve in with the new system we put on.
View 4 Replies
Many years ago, we replaced the thermostat. Because it started running hot, we replaced with a hotter thermostat based on a mechanic's suggestion. Every now and again going up a hill and especially in warm temperatures the gauge suggests that the engine is about to overheat. Also, the temperature gauge reads really cold in the cold, and there isn't enough heat inside. Some mechanics have offered to replace the fan clutch but then they don't seem to think it's a big deal.
View 6 Replies
Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
View 7 Replies
During my first year as a Phaeton owner, I had AC problems and tried to have it fixed. As usual, when you have the problem, it just seems to go away when you take your car into the dealer. It happens when I go on any extended trips, and have the AC on continuously, at about 68 degrees. There were four of us traveling yesterday and returning home today. The outside temp was 87 degrees, After driving for two hours, the cool air stopped coming out the vents. It was working real hard to provide a strong air sound that was harnessed only in the dash, and even when I lowered the temp it would not come out the vents.
I remember several years ago in an American Lincoln town car when we traveled from Florida to Georgia to avoid a hurricane, and it turned out we had no air when we got to GA. It was something called a blendor and I don't know if my Phaeton has any such monster.
I had the same problem in 2006 when I had to drive to NJ to bury a relative, and all through the funeral (in July when it was hot) I could not get any cool air to come out. The noise in the dash again seemed to tell me the air was blowing somewhere else, but I have no clue. Again took it to VW service, but could not recreate the problem. I also tried all the other positions as to where the air should come out (i.e., straight at your upper torso, down at your feet, etc.) but nothing worked.
View 4 Replies
I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
View 4 Replies
I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
View 7 Replies
My Phaeton has been running perfect since I got it. Yesterday I took it to the dealership to get fluids topped off and a wash. We have had a break in the weather the last couple of days, so I took my w12 on 465 and got it up to 120 before I chickened out. It continued to ride perfectly. This morning when I went out to start my honey do list the service engine soon light was on, it is still running perfect, but when I stopped by local auto store and had them pull the code it says "thermostat heating control circuit open". My middle temp stays at 200, when sitting still the left temp gauge goes almost to 200 however when driving it falls to under 160.
View 24 Replies
This morning my AC was working just fine, air blew cold and nothing seemed wrong. But then tonight when I went out it was cold outside so I decided to turn the heat on.. That's when a problem happened. Tried turning the AC on but no air came out the vents at all. Tried all the air settings, nothing at all, even when it's on "4". The only thing that seems to work is the re-cycilation button, it lights up and I can hear it working. So to sum it up, no air coming out the vents and the AC light won't turn on when I push it in.
View 3 Replies
When I turn on the air conditioning, the driver's side works well, but the passenger's side vents blow warm air. What could this mean and could I fix it from home?
View 1 Replies
The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 7 Replies
My 2005 has developed a whistle with the fan on. Doesn't much change with dash vents open or closed but essentially comes on once I've turned the fan past 4 "bricks"....
View 3 Replies
The dealer showed us how to open these but we can't get them to open?! Is there a trick? The button doesn't seem to do anything.... New 2004 V8 owner....
View 21 Replies
How are you supposed to use this switch? (the switch below the clock) I'm also confused how this switch affects the overall pre-set temperature. Is this switch supposed to allow the air conditioning system in the center vents to get colder than the other vents? If so, how can that happen?
View 2 Replies
After 3 trouble free years my car had a different TPMS problem, with TPMS FAULT message popping up. The dealer initially changed one or two sensors and then the most updated module. For 1 day there were no problems and while driving on the highway the malfunction warning came up again. Now they are suggesting it could be related to the tires that are not the original ones, but same size and specs and I have been driving on them for a year without any problems.
View 4 Replies
I've had the car diagnosed on a VAS 5051. Everything is fine, and the car should start (it does on easy-start). However, it doesn't start. I've disconnected the pipes from the fuel filter assembly and fuel is coming to the filter but nothing is returning. What should I diagnose first, Is something blocked, or could it be to do with the injectors?
View 1 Replies
I read the forums about the TPMS and saying low pressure.
But mine actually says: Tire Pressure Monitoring Malfunction
Something to that effect. That leads me to believe it has nothing to do with tire pressure but rather something is faulty. If it said tire pressure low that would be one thing...but it clearly says something about tire pressure monitor malfunction. I told the dealer to prepare to order a TPMS but he said he thinks it's the weather and he needs to look at it.
View 17 Replies
One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
View 5 Replies
I had a serious issue arise today while simply trying to reprogram the radio settings on the infotainment system. When I hit the autostore button (which I had done many times before), the system kind of ground to a halt, wherein it found and programmed a new station, then a couple of others, but it took forever to finish - something that had never happened before. So I hit the autostore button again, with no effect.
Then suddenly, the whole system rebooted - the screen went black, then the welcome VW sign, then the radio started blasting again, but with only 1 or 2 stations showing. Nothing I could do to change anything worked. I couldn't switch to the CD player, I couldn't manually tune the radio, and then I found out that I didn't even have control of the temperature settings in the climate control any longer. the whole front control system seemed to be completely frozen.
And then it rebooted again - after only about 20 seconds of playing. this cycle repeats itself, over and over again. I have no control over anything on the front dashboard. I tried powering down the system, but that didn't work. So I pulled the fuse and then started it all up again, only to have the same issues again. Then frustrated, I took my key out, got out of the car, and closed the door. the damn thing kept doing the same thing. Even removing the key and locking the car up didn't slow it down. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem, and when we went out to the lot to look at it, some 5 minutes after I had arrived there, there was the system playing away all by itself, and then rebooting itself. they did a couple of checks on it and said something like - the whole command center is screwed = you need a new one.
View 7 Replies
Currently on a 1 week mini break, and the P has decided to play up. I have had 6 months of worry free driving before this new issue. I have posted before that the 6 speed in my P has never been the best behaved in auto, a bit slippy and jerky, at times, but also perfect shifts 60+% of the time, but I know others share this issue so not unusual - its usually ok when manually going through the gears.
Upto 110k miles now and on this journey had been about 10miles in on the motorway so fully warmed up. Had cruise on doing about 70 mph. Bascially started being very erratic and surging then dropping quite uncomfortably.
I knocked cruise off and observed that under full acceleration no issue. Under no acceleration (foot off gas) no issue. Only when keeping up with traffic, so partial gas, did the issue occur. I waiting for the next exit and pulled off, and it initially carried on even at low speeds around 30mph, then went away. Parked up. Started it up about 2 hours later fearing the worse, but had no issue since. Kicking myself as I have the laptop but forgot the VAGcom lead.
Rang my VW specialist and he said as there were no MIL lights, the only way to know whats going on is to scan the car, and if it does it again get it recovered, which will mean the end of my break. I will scan the car as soon as I get back, but concerned I could do more damage.
View 11 Replies
I plan on taking my (new to me) 2004 V8 Phaeton in for some CPO work - already.. A couple days ago all my Driver Side air vents (front, back, even ventilated seat) started blowing non-cooled air while the passenger side seemed to be working fine. You can literally stick your hand up and feel the difference between the left and right side of the clock.
The question is, are there 2 compressors - one for the left and one for the right? or is this some weird fuse that has blown and only affected the driver's side? The fan functions just the same - just not cooling the air on the driver's side. I have all the zones connected together and at the lowest setting for the test.
View 7 Replies
