I had the transmission replaced last fall under warranty. the VW rebuilt unit was 09L 300 035 PX. When unit was replaced the dealer used G 060 162 A2 as the fluid. Was that the right oil? Shouldn't they have used the upgraded G 055162 A2 and the new reflash? The shudder has started to return and I am off of warranty.
View 15 RepliesI got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
View 24 Replies I have a Phaeton W12. When I brake there is a slight shudder at most speeds unless I brake fairly hard, except when traveling at 120 km/h and 85km/h, at these speeds the shudder is severe uless I brake hard, but this could be that the car slows out of these 'bad speeds' quickly. The shudder is unnerving and severe enough to expect that it will cause damage. I did have the disks/rotors skimmed on a lathe, I thought this had fixed the problem, I can't be sure it didn't. All seemded fine initially, but I don't remember the speeds I was doing when I tested the skimmed disks for the first time.
To add to the fun, I brought with me when I moved countries and VW won't work on it before its registered locally and I need the brakes to be working to do so. Chicken and egg sort of problem. Parst are also not freely available here.
There is a rubber suspension bush in front which I noticed needs to be replaced, which I will order today, but it's likely to take a few weeks to get here unless it's used on an Audi or another car sold here, but it's the opposite front wheel which appears to have uneven wear on the disk.
Yesterday I filled my V10 with diesel and as soon as I started the engine to leave the petrol station the car seemed to shudder.
I joined the traffic and passed it off intially as poor road surface. But as I joined a queue to enter the motorway I realised it was the engine!
It was sort of surging, or perhaps it's better explained by saying it was dropping, shuddering down from say 800 RPM to around 400 then picking back up again. I revved it to 1000 RPM and it seemed fine, but if I let it drop to idle is carried on leaping and jerking for about another 3 or 4 minutes.
I then entered the motorway and it responded fine and the problem has not come back so far.
What could it be? Missing on one cylinder? Is this going to be problem? Hope not
I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
On my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
Checked but could find much on the throttle body. I have a 93 Chev 1500 2wd 5.7 320000km when I drive on highway, it drives along good when I get to slower speeds is seems to studder. I have to push gas pedal to push it threw. I bought some throttle body cleaner and I noticed that when I sprayed around the bottom of throttle body. It almost stalls. Could this be the reason why I am getting the studder and is that the indication that I should replace the base of throttle body gasket ? I replaced the plugs and fuel filter cleaned iac motor ....
View 5 RepliesNew start for an old problem. 2010, F-150, 5.4, 5.5' bed. Truck is new to me, used 105K miles. Love the truck, got it to tow TT I was having trouble towing with a shorter wheel base vehicle. Has HD towing package, tows great, good power, stable. First trip out with the TT the ole Shudder in 2nd gear low speed reared it's ugly head. I did do the slip joint re-lube with Ford wonder grease.
View 7 RepliesLooking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
The beast slowed to a crawl on the interstate saturday morning for my son's soccer games... wouldn't hold speed up hills and engine had definite shudder at all speeds... fortunately, the dealer is in the city he was playing in adn the service dept is open on saturday mornings, so I could drop it off... they were exceptional about getting a loaner (new jetta tdi wagon)... they called today to report that one of the turbos was ruined... VW says they have to replace both to complete repair... tracked down parts in germany and will take about a week to arrive, then a day or so to repair. Had problems with the v10's turbos? I'm at about 12K miles... this is my second v10 and it's kinda spooky to have this kind of problem...
View 20 RepliesMy 95 psd recently started shuddering on takeoff... Pretty sure its the torque converter. It has a full ATS tranny with 5 star t/c and all the goodies installed by the previous owner (warranty not transferable). Its only got about 25k on the trans but they have been far from easy miles.
Symptoms: If I hold the brake and keep the truck stopped while holding the throttle its totally smooth, not until the truck starts moving that the shudder begins. It shudders worse the more power i put to it. Does it in first gear and second gear takeoffs. Goes away at about 10 mph or once the speed catches up with the rpm.
I have a 2010 Camry 2.5 liter with 150k miles. I have begun to notice a shudder around 30-45 mph during normal acceleration. It does not happen during a hard acceleration. As I watch the rpm's when the car shifts the shudder happens after the rpm's drop when the car is engaging in the next gear. After some research I'm led to believe I have a failing torque converter. If it is the torque converter can just the converter itself be replaced or does the whole transmission need to be replaced.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 V-10 TDI with 43k miles on it. Last week I was turning right onto a busy street so I got on the gas hard and all of a sudden it sounds like my transmission was bouncing/shuddering inside the tunnel. It has since happened twice since then, both times while turning right and on the gas hard. I always like to find out as much information as I can about a problem before I take it to my local dealer as the only V-10 they have ever seen is mine and I didn't buy it from them.
View 1 RepliesMy car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
The tranny is on a 1997 f250 psd 222K miles it has acceleration shudder and o.d shudder. Tranny is getting to 250 degrees Fahrenheit and stays right about there but does not cool when it is park and idling.
View 2 RepliesI just put a rebuilt 4r70w in my '97 expedition and it shifts good but in 4th gear when I let off of the accelerator it starts to shudder until it shifts to 3rd. It acts like it is freewheeling then catches on and off. My thoughts so far is that I don't have the digital transmission range sensor positioned right or the overdrive servo isn't working properly.
View 1 RepliesI have 142k miles on my 2005 RX330 AWD. This week I can feel the transmission slip/shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
My local transmission guy is pretty reasonable but like most salesmen he's going to say rebuild it the entire transmission in lou of something less invasive.
I am experiencing a very frustrating shift anomaly. 2003 T and C . Under certain throttle conditions ( usually light ) from a dead start I am feeling a bump/violent shudder between the 1-2 transmission shift. If I let off the gas, I can get the shudder to quit and then by continuing to accelerate , successfully complete the 1-2 shift.
Does not happen all the time and never under straight ahead med-hard acceleration. By nature , happens most of the time under light acceleration when turning a corner from a dead stop. Sort of feels like a loss of traction or something funky happening with the torque convertor. Have serviced the trans with new fluid and filter, new TPS, new plugs, wires, and coil pack.
My wife and I have a 2002 Escape and basically love it, however, at my last oil change, at 26,000 miles, I told the service manager about a shudder I was getting from the transmission when it down-shifted from overdrive. He suggested a transmission fluid change since I was in the range that Ford recommends.
That totally corrected the problem for almost 4000 miles, however, the shudder is slowly starting to come back at 30000 miles.
Just yesterday, I took it to my Ford dealer for inspection, oil change and it's 30000 mile check up and I mentioned this problem to the service manager. He suggested that I make an appointment.
The problem is that right now, it is happening so infrequently, if they took it for a test drive, it might happen right away, or not at all, but I know it will get worse as time goes on.
Question. Should I wait until the problem gets worse, and second, what might be the cause?
A few days ago, I was trying to back up with my 5th wheel (12,000lbs) and in reverse the transmission was shuddering combined with a noise. So I stopped and since than, the reverse is shuddering when I accelerate.
If I put it in reverse and let it in idle, everything is fine. The forward gears without problem.
Temperature always between 140 and 160, never overheated.
F350 Dually Crew cab, 7.3, 1999, 215,000 km, superchip,
Never overdone it with the power. Fluid level ok, no burned smell at the fluid, still red in color.