Phaeton :: 2008 - Leak After Oil Change?
Sep 13, 2015
I am a new owner of 2008 vw phaeton w12.
I buy the car three months ago. I have spend 2000 miles and two days ago i go to change the oil and filters.
After the change i have oil leak. I am sure its from the engine oil!
What might be the problem and hows that possible after oil change to have a oil leak?!
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I've got keyless entry on my phaeton 2008. Came up with a warning saying "change key battery" a few months ago. So I changed the key battery with a new one I had lying around. the warning stayed.
I thought it might be an old battery so I bought another brand new one and still the same warning. Thought I'd wait it out thinking it will soon disappear with a new fob battery but it hasn't and is starting to annoy me now.
Other than the warning, the fob works fine, has a good range, and keyless entry works fine. Its just the annoying beep and warning message left.
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I have V6 Tdi -08 and my car has developed a tiny leak on the right hand side exhaust manifold. The purchase price for a new manifold is not to expensive but I now wonder difficult it is to replace considering how tight it is in the engine bay. If the engine has to come out in order to have it replaced or repaired.
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I have been changing the transmission fluid. It seems the consensus is that unless you are driving under extreme conditions (other than "normal"), it may be advised. I am probably driving my 2006 V8 Phaeton "normally" but I am not sure of its previous life. For example, it lived in hot and humid South Carolina and may have done a lot of highway miles. So I am thinking about changing that fluid for safe measure.
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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I am a new V8 Phaeton owner. I have had the car since December and have only put about 2,000 on the car. I have always been the kind of person who takes great pride in doing much of their own maintenance on cars. Plus. How do you get the passenger side air box out to access the oil filter? I can get the upper section apart but can't get the lower section of the airbox out and I am scared to break it.
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I have to replace my gear shifter and have the new one alread an OEM part could some one point me to illustrative instructions on how to change this basically it's the top part which you press to shift from park to drive, reverse and so on.
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How to enable the options within settings to allow me to position the wipers straight up so I can change them. The option is greyed out, no matter what the car is doing (get a message telling me I can't do that when the car is moving, even when I'm in Park with the engine off)...
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2004 W12 Phaeton ... I remove the Air Filter cover and filter, I am not sure if the round fixture on the Air Filter housing is the headlight fixture or how to remove and replace it. I am able to move it inward and outward, but not able to remove. should I remove the Air Filter housing to get to the bulb??
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Left the car out in the open for three days, temperatures three or four above freezing. In a car park. When leaving the car park, the Phaeton did not change out of 1st gear. I was only able to give the symptoms 50% of my attention as I was negotiating the car park and its exit - but as I moved out of the car park, and picked up speed the down shift didn't occur until just under 4000 rpm. After that initial hiatus, it changed gear perfectly. Left it again another two days out in the (relative) cold, and the strange behavior has not returned. I wouldn't mention it only it has done this once before, about 12 months ago. Selector was definitely in drive, not s, and definitely not over to the right for manual changing.
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I have determined that my starter is not engaging on my car 4.2 phaeton. I removed the 433 starter relay and tried to jump the contacts to engage the starter. I get a small flow of current when I do this but no engagement of the starter, only a very faint click. Not a click like when you engage a normal solenoid. It may be a bad solenoid or a bad starter motor. I cannot reach the terminals on the solenoid to check my connections. I have read somewhere that the manual states that the engine removal is required. I tried knocking on the solenoid with no results.
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I have been knocking my head against the wall trying to get an appointment for an ATF fluid and filter change with no success. The odometer reads 67000 miles.
Those VW tech don't want to touch it unless there is something wrong. Hard to believe. Changing ATF fluid and filter as preventive maintenance?
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So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton. According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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I am wondering if the frequency of the signal to change lanes can be increased from three (3) blips to four (4) or five (5) blips. Mine does only 3 and sometimes I do not find that sufficient - maybe I like to be extra cautious.
I have a Ross-Tech VAG-COM so looking for any way of changing it using that tool. I just do not feel very inclined to go around changing parameters without knowing what the outcome may be. I find the Ross-Tech manual to be rather cryptic.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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I would like to upgrade my rims, from originally 18 inch Champion to the Omanyt, but I once heard that it is necessary to change the wheel alignment (german: spur and sturz) if you want to use the 19 inch VW Omanyt (ET40 255/40 R19) rims on Phaetons that were shipped with 18 inch wheels. Is this correct?
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I have a 2007 3ld with 195 000 miles so about 300 000 km - I think it may be beneficial to change the transmission fluid as I have no plans to change the car.
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The other day I saw this message (or something similar) in the instrument cluster display for the first time. I was parked, car unladen, engine not running, parking brake on, facing somewhat uphill, when I attempted to change to the higher ride height.
The Handbook doesn't refer to conditions for ride height adjustments.
I'm pretty confident my batteries are fine. I attributed the reluctance to the fact that the car was pointing uphill, though on reflection may that not be exactly a time when you do need to change ride height?
A few minutes later, driving on the level, the ride height adjusted perfectly well, and it has done so since whether moving or at rest.
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Went to Mechanic today and he found transmission oil leaking at the green arrow. Ignore the yellow circle.
Big problem or small problem? Btw i hate that there's no dipstick for VWs' transmission oil level. My mechanic said the level is fine. Since Im not getting it fixed soon because I got school and stuff, how do I know if the level is fine?
Mechanic also mentioned that I should change my axels (i dont know if that's the right spelling)
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2002 Freelander with 95,000 miles . My friend brought her car in to have a new thermostat put in. The mechanic told her she needed an oil change. She, agreed and had them go ahead and change the oil. after leaving the mechanic her oil light came on. The Freelander started bucking so she pulled over and called the mechanic. After looking at the vehicle the mechanic told her that her CAM Seal was leaking and she had to have it and her belts replaced. Is there a possibility that the oil was overfilled or the plug was not put in properly and the oil leaked out causing the car to over heat and busting the seal on the cam?
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