Phaeton :: 2008 - Change Key Battery Warning Won't Go Away
Nov 7, 2014
I've got keyless entry on my phaeton 2008. Came up with a warning saying "change key battery" a few months ago. So I changed the key battery with a new one I had lying around. the warning stayed.
I thought it might be an old battery so I bought another brand new one and still the same warning. Thought I'd wait it out thinking it will soon disappear with a new fob battery but it hasn't and is starting to annoy me now.
Other than the warning, the fob works fine, has a good range, and keyless entry works fine. Its just the annoying beep and warning message left.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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I am a new owner of 2008 vw phaeton w12.
I buy the car three months ago. I have spend 2000 miles and two days ago i go to change the oil and filters.
After the change i have oil leak. I am sure its from the engine oil!
What might be the problem and hows that possible after oil change to have a oil leak?!
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I have just had my LHS battery replaced after ages messing about trying to get it done at a reasonable price and level of skill and the car feels like it is new. Once they had cleared out the erroneous fault codes, everything came back to life. For the first time, the central locking system works as it is supposed to, and the centre display in the binnacle no longer flashes. So everything's great - except the TPMS.
The dealer reported that it was working fine, and so it appeared, for about a mile, then the warning tone and message flashed up and I was back to square one. The same thing happened this morning. When I started the car, the TPMS was working, and displaying the pressures on the screen, and after about a mile, the dreaded warning tone and error message. If you think your battery is low, do get it replaced.
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2008 Prius with @ 70K. Never any problems.
My wife goes and has the oil changed at one the 'stay in your car' 10 minutes changes. They change the oil and replace a couple burnt out bulbs. Drive home the 2 miles to the house and gets ready for work. Leaves for work and sees the 'check engine' light on. Goes back to the oil place, they throw it on the computer and read a PO101 and PO171 code. "has to do with with the fuel mixture". She goes to work 11 miles and back. This a.m.
1. Check Engine with !
2. VSC
3. another light with !
4. Red Triangle with !
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Any VCDS instructions to reset?
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Circumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
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I haven’t been on these boards very often since getting my used 2008 Prius because until now it has been very kind to me in terms of not needing mechanical repairs. Unfortunately that good streak seems to have come to an end. Driving home Monday evening (after ~30min freeway driving), my master system warning light came on, accompanied by the hybrid system warning light. I didn’t know what the latter was – had to look it up – but I immediately pulled to the shoulder. The car was driving normally, however. Since shops and dealers were closed for the evening, after much debate I ended up having the car towed to a family friend’s body shop; they were still there and had a scanner to check the error codes for me. My car was on the side of the freeway for well over an hour with hazard lights on and the dome light on and off occasionally as we got in and out of the car. By the time the tow truck arrived, I discovered that the 12V battery seemed dead; car wouldn’t boot up all the way, wouldn’t shift to neutral and didn’t want to power down – I had to try turning it off upwards of 10 times. I was surprised, given just the hazard light and limited dome light usage. We jumped it, got it in neutral and on the truck.
At the body shop, they said there were no error codes related to the hybrid battery; something about transmission that wasn’t clarified, and errors for low voltage on the 12V battery. With everything off, it measured 10-something V; something higher when turned on, but they believed the problem was a dead 12V battery. I was surprised that it would suddenly give out in the middle of driving, but we went ahead and replaced it the next day. I picked up the car Tues evening, and had no problems driving it home, to work the next morning. Unfortunately, during my drive home – strangely at almost exactly the same location as the first time – the same hybrid system warning light came back on. I’d driving about 70 miles with it off at this point before the reappearance. This time I didn’t pull over to the side (had enough of that before) but rather drove a few more miles to a parking lot where the car has now stayed overnight. I note that the car seemed to drive perfectly normally during that time; no loss of power.
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The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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I have been changing the transmission fluid. It seems the consensus is that unless you are driving under extreme conditions (other than "normal"), it may be advised. I am probably driving my 2006 V8 Phaeton "normally" but I am not sure of its previous life. For example, it lived in hot and humid South Carolina and may have done a lot of highway miles. So I am thinking about changing that fluid for safe measure.
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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I am a new V8 Phaeton owner. I have had the car since December and have only put about 2,000 on the car. I have always been the kind of person who takes great pride in doing much of their own maintenance on cars. Plus. How do you get the passenger side air box out to access the oil filter? I can get the upper section apart but can't get the lower section of the airbox out and I am scared to break it.
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I have to replace my gear shifter and have the new one alread an OEM part could some one point me to illustrative instructions on how to change this basically it's the top part which you press to shift from park to drive, reverse and so on.
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How to enable the options within settings to allow me to position the wipers straight up so I can change them. The option is greyed out, no matter what the car is doing (get a message telling me I can't do that when the car is moving, even when I'm in Park with the engine off)...
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2004 W12 Phaeton ... I remove the Air Filter cover and filter, I am not sure if the round fixture on the Air Filter housing is the headlight fixture or how to remove and replace it. I am able to move it inward and outward, but not able to remove. should I remove the Air Filter housing to get to the bulb??
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Left the car out in the open for three days, temperatures three or four above freezing. In a car park. When leaving the car park, the Phaeton did not change out of 1st gear. I was only able to give the symptoms 50% of my attention as I was negotiating the car park and its exit - but as I moved out of the car park, and picked up speed the down shift didn't occur until just under 4000 rpm. After that initial hiatus, it changed gear perfectly. Left it again another two days out in the (relative) cold, and the strange behavior has not returned. I wouldn't mention it only it has done this once before, about 12 months ago. Selector was definitely in drive, not s, and definitely not over to the right for manual changing.
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I have determined that my starter is not engaging on my car 4.2 phaeton. I removed the 433 starter relay and tried to jump the contacts to engage the starter. I get a small flow of current when I do this but no engagement of the starter, only a very faint click. Not a click like when you engage a normal solenoid. It may be a bad solenoid or a bad starter motor. I cannot reach the terminals on the solenoid to check my connections. I have read somewhere that the manual states that the engine removal is required. I tried knocking on the solenoid with no results.
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I have been knocking my head against the wall trying to get an appointment for an ATF fluid and filter change with no success. The odometer reads 67000 miles.
Those VW tech don't want to touch it unless there is something wrong. Hard to believe. Changing ATF fluid and filter as preventive maintenance?
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So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton. According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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I am wondering if the frequency of the signal to change lanes can be increased from three (3) blips to four (4) or five (5) blips. Mine does only 3 and sometimes I do not find that sufficient - maybe I like to be extra cautious.
I have a Ross-Tech VAG-COM so looking for any way of changing it using that tool. I just do not feel very inclined to go around changing parameters without knowing what the outcome may be. I find the Ross-Tech manual to be rather cryptic.
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