Phaeton :: 2006 - Yellow Engine Came On And Does Not Go Out On Dash
Jul 18, 2009
I have an 06 phaeton which runs perfectly but driving to work the picture of a yellow engine came on and does not go out. I tried turning off the engine and restarting it but still it remains lit, steady. the owners manual does not state what this is other than a "malfunction indicator".
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My 2006 V8 Phaeton has had its yellow engine warning light on for a few weeks. Around the same time, the cooling fan in the engine compartment stays on after I stop the car - even though its Winter here in Montana. So I got the fault code read: P2181. Seems to be linked to cooling system?
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The other day as I was leaving my neighborhood, I had to turn the wheel all the way to left to circle out of my culdesac. I heard a brief clank and a yellow light on the dash indicator came on for a split second and went away before I could see which light it was.
I remember when I first bought the Phaeton I read throug the manuals and read something like: do not turn hard left for an extended period of time. I always thought that was odd and wondered why. I also wondered if that clank and brief yellow light was because I was doing this hard left. What's special about left vs right?
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My wife was driving down our street today, a two way street, narrow at best of times. On one side a monster snow pile ( 6-7ft high), the other side a very big truck coming at her, minimal passing room, like almost touching her mirrors.
The warning lights on both sides went from green to yellow and red ...beeping all the time. The Phaeton stalled. Not once or twice, but four times !!
Question : did the engine stall because of the red beeping lights on both sides sensed imminent danger ? ...... and she kept on going. She thinks so.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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My 1999 Passat B5 Wagon with only 46K miles (a great used deal) has the yellow airbag light on in the dash. What usually has to be done to diagnose the problem? In other words, what sort of damage am I talking about at the dealer?
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Quick Question: I was driving through my neighborhood yesterday and hit a pretty good bump. I as hit the brakes, a quick Yellow Triangle Light illuminated on my dash. There were no other warning lights that I could see and the warning light was only on for a split-second. What could've caused this? BTW, I have a 2013 Prius LB 3 purchased new in August w/ only 1230 miles as of today...
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This morning when I started my Prius 3rd Gen 2011, I noticed three yellow lights being on. These were; something similar to handbrake light, ABS light and then the stability control light. All are in yellow. Checked tire pressure and found that one tire was low and filled it. Also, brake fluid was near the low level and I topped it. The lights are still on. I switched on and off several times but the lights are still on.
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Sometimes my door chime will elert when I shut my car off (push button start ignition) and I notice the flashing key on the dash flashes yellow. It doesn't happen all the time however. Is this a sign that my key fob battery needs replacement?
2012 V6 Camry owner
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I have a 3.0 TDI Phaeton 2006.
One day when i tried to start it on morning it's spinning long time but cannot start. I connected a VAS and there was one ECU error of camshaft position sensor - signal not real. 2nd different thing that I have only communication with 3 modules - ECU, gearbox and dashboard.
I bought a new sensor and change it. No positive results - the same error. I decided to make new wires connection direct to the ECU so i take new wires and connect sensor directly to the ECU. It's also didn't take any effect - the same error.
After days in which I want to burn this car I decided to change shaft speed sensor (RPM sensor) - i took one from my mum's car - it is the same (A6).. There is no error on ECU but it doesn't start also. But now engine trying to start in different way - only 2-3 rotation of engine and stops (before changing shaft speed sensor it was spinning a lot times when trying to start).
I also turn off immo from ECU by BDM100 to be sure that there is no immo problem. How I can find reason why there is no connection with lot of modules ? I checked fuses in 3 places (in trunk, next to the driver legs, and next to ECU). Engine cannot start without communication with airbags but how to find problem with communication.
And the one small thing: before changing sensors when car was dead some injectors was clicking but rarely and not synchronized. After changing sensors (and no errors now) there isn't any noise (clicking) of injectors.
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i have an 06 phaeton with 32 k miles . drove home with no problem at all, no engine shake, zippo. then i put my car in the garage and 10 minutes later smelled like a fire. i pulled my car out of the garage, and the yellow light was flashing and the engine rocking like crazy. shut it off in less than 10 seconds. under the hood, the front left spark plug cover and cable that runs across all four was almost completely melted. the cable was burned right thru. the black caps that cover the plugs-- the front right one only was melted severely. Do I have a blown engine...
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I posted the following issue a year ago about my car, but the problem continues. when my 06 v8 phaeton is cold, there is variable engine rpm's with my foot steady on the gas at low speed and a flat surface. ie 1500 to 1700 to 1500 to 1700 etc. i can hear it feel it but it's subtle. the engine starts easy and runs perfect otherwise.
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I have a 06 passat wagon 1.9 tdi and had no major problems with it until today. we went to a city about 30 miles away from home. it was a pretty hot day so we had a/c on. We went out to do some shopping and when we got back to the car just as i turned ignition on i got a yellow control lighten up saying emissions garage.. i also noticed lower performance and couldn't hear the turbo.. when we got back home I plugged the battery out and left it there for about 10minutes then i plugged it back on. the control lit up again but i went 4 a spin and heard the turbo back on.. also the performance seemed as it should be.
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On my o6 SD i want to make the OEM fog lights "selective yellow". I am going to tint the fog light lens with duplicator metal cast yellow. What I am wondering is if paint the outside of the lens or take apart and paint the inside.
I am leaning towards heating and splitting the lens from the housing and painting the backside of the fog light lens so the color will not be chipped off from lens wear and tear. What I am wondering is if the fluted rim on the inside of the lens will take the paint in a uniform manner, or would it be better just to paint the out side where it is smooth all the way to the housing.
I have a spare pair, I am working with and have split he lens from the housings before.
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I recently purchased a 2006 SE with 4 cylinder/at combo. Engine is silky smooth, but I have a rattle that I think is coming from behind the driver instruments or against the fire wall where the brake m/c is. This only occurs when the engine is in gear, mainly with a/c on, & the idle drops to 600-700 rpm range. Like if I am sitting at a red light for more than a minute or two. If I put the tranny in neutral, cut the a/c off, or step on gas to raise the idle speed the rattle goes away. It's definitely rpm dependent.
It's not the a/c, because I have been able to repeat the issue with the a/c off. I did notice that on the back of the air filter box, there are several plastic components attached but what they do. Is there anyway to increase idle speed?
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All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
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My headlights on my 2006 are hazy and yellow and the light output is reduced. I tried some plastic headlight cleaner stuff but it was clear for like a month, and now it looks even worse than before.
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My 2006 Golf V R32 DSG with 74kkm on the clock started acting up this following weekend.
Took a slow right turn, and BAM the yellow power steering light came up, along with the yellow sign for ESP deactivated and tyre pressure failure.
Then i found out, that a couple of turns to each side would clear the power steering fault light and shortly after the 2 others would follow.
When i tried that for about 4-5 times i took it to my local shop, where we tested it with vcds and the only fault was the steering angle sensor, which I then had replaced, and mechanic then reset the ESP for some reason.
Picked up the car, and it worked fine... for 10km then i had the excatly same thing accour again.
What can be wrong? I have thourgt about the steering rack, but the symptoms are not what others have encountered.
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2006 Explorer with a perplexing issue that I am scratching my head over. When engine revs to around 3000 RPM, there is a click that sounds like it is under the dash, and the ABS, traction control, and airbag lights come on; if the headlights are on, the dash lights around the a/c controls go out, and sometimes (but not every time) the speedometer and odometer drop to zero. Also, the overhead lighting, if on, goes out. The engine does not appear to be affected. After about 1 second, another click, and everything returns to normal. This happens either while driving or if in park and revving engine. Is this possibly a relay tripping? And if so, why is it triggered by 3000 RPMs?
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Today all of a sudden my yellow engine indicator lighted up. I tried turning off the vehicle and start it back to see whether it goes off. No luck in that effort.
I have Prius 2012. I serviced it last on 10/31/2014 and I have now run 8000 Kilo Meters after the last service. I am using 0W-20 as my engine oil.
I see the vehicle going to EV mode and Engine mode depending on the way I drive and I've even achieved 20Kmpl in the last run. Could this be a sensor or a serious issue.
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My wife said she had to slam on the brakes this morning to avoid someone pull out in front of her. She said the small yellow engine light came on right after.
Could it be low brake fluid? Not sure how that works.
It's a 2009.
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