Phaeton :: 2006 - Water Temp Approaches The Red Line?
Jan 2, 2012
I have an 06 phaeton v8. just this week, the engine performance seems perfect, but the water temp now approaches the red line, not quite but very close and the oil temp goes over the 200 mark up to 240. this happens in cold weather. so i drive slow. if i go up a hill, the temp really goes up. only in idle and going down hill will the water temp drop back to 200. I opened the blue cap in the engine compartment when the engine was cold. it looked like "brownish fluid " but it was or appeared filled.
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I have 2006 ford f250 6.0 diesel. I was changing the fuel filter on the frame rail and noticed a lot of dirt in the housing . I tried to remove the plug to drain water to see if i could get out some of the dirt. But the bolt just turned and wouldn't come out. It wouldn't tighten either. I went ahead and cleaned as much dirt as i could and changed the filter. How to get the bolt out....... I just bought the truck so i don't have any prior maintenance history...
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We just bought my Daughter a low mileage 2007 Hatchback Accent and I noticed the water temp light on the dash stays on for about 4 to 5 minutes after you crank the car up. Is this normal for this model? It is not low of water.
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I have a 2012 Crew cab Silverado 5.3 V8 with the towing package. When I pull my travel trailer (approx. 5000 lbs), the water temp stays 1/2 guage and the tranny temp is 170-190, however, on steep hills the water temp guage goes 2/3 to 3/4 guage for a short time and the tranny temp reaches 200-210 degrees. Is the elevated water and tranny temps okay or should I try to reduce them back to the normal range. What is the max temp I should keep the tranny at?
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My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
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Fluctuating temperature gauge? In the past few weeks I have noticed that my temp gauge goes over the normal temp line but the car never actually overheats. This doesn't happen all the time and only every once in a while. Today however, the gauge went very high and I immediately put the heat on high and it slowly dropped to normal again.
I had a water pump replaced several years ago and last year had the thermostat replaced as well. The only thing I have had done recently was an oil change at one of those convenience stations. During the check-point, I was asked if I wanted the filter changed that filters the air coming into the car. I said no, but now wondering if they actually disconnected something when checking for this. The reason I'm bringing this up is because sometimes I don't get hot air when the heat is on or cold air when the a/c is on.
After reading online more about this, I read that a faulty Temperature Sensor can give a false reading. Just added some water to the radiator but not much...so no leaks that I can see.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab XE with a V6 (without the supercharger). I bought it on Halloween night with only 42,000 miles. It now has 112,000 miles on it. I moved from Georgia to Kentucky and heard that I needed to have the cooling system flushed/filled to prevent it from freezing in the winter time. I then noticed that it would periodically "overheat." The temperature gauge would climb up to the line just below the "H" and then I would turn on the heater.
I read online about a "bleeder valve" on top of the intake manifold. I loosened it, squeezed the radiator hoses to get all of the air out and then tightened the bleeder valve. I then let it run until the thermostat opened, revved it up to 3,000 to let all of the coolant flow. Now, at various time with no specific reason, it will run fine and then just "decide" to overheat.
I can drive it on the interstate for fifteen minutes, park it in front of my house and then have to "tack it up to 3,000" just to get it cool. I've changed the thermostat and had the water pump tested. Neither of them are faulty. My mechanic vacuumed out all of the air from the system with a special tool the dealer recommends using and it still does the same thing. What's going on with this vehicle?
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While I was having my tires rotated yesterday, the last floorjack was being lowered just in front of my driver's side rear tire when there was a noticeable hissing sound. The outer lip of the plate on the floorjack caught on the line going to my front suspension and the front of the car went down.
I'm borrowing a picture that Michael posted earlier and hopefully I've labelled the correct items in the picture. His previous red arrows were for pointing out the oval holes in the bottom of the car that can get damaged in towing.
The owner of the shop that did it drove my car slowly to the VW dealer that was within a couple miles. I've allowed them to do a repair to the line that meets VW specs. Some type of male/female brass connection that will save several hundred dollars on the repair that the tire shop will be paying for.
I'm surprised that VW placed the air lines so close to one of the lift points.
Is it possible to cause damage to the air shocks when they are lowered all the way down like that? I'm hoping not. I figured it probably was better to drive the car to the dealership instead of risking any damage that could have been caused by putting it on a flatbed.
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I have a 2013 GTI manual 6 speed with 18K very gently driven miles. Yesterday I noticed coolant on the garage floor and checked the reservoir which was below the fill line.
Went to dealer this morning .....bad water pump. I asked if this was unusual for such a new car with low miles and service writer said yes. After googling water pump failures of GTi's I learned this was not the case.
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My Phaeton had the typical burning oil smell so I suspected the Camshaft cover gasket. However when I looked at the service history the gaskets were only just changed in 2012.
When I inspected the car closely I found the RH EGR vacuum line was disconnected (pipe cracked through).
Unlike the Audi A8, the VW 4.2 looks like it has 2 EGR valves, and not one. So I reconnected it, and so far, the burning smell is now gone!!
I am a newbie on the VW 4.2 but is a disconnected EGR a likely cause of oil leaks? (ie positive crankcase pressure). It makes me wonder if all the people whom are changing their cam cover gaskets, should be checking their PCV/EGR's instead??
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The last two fill-ups I have noticed the fule gauge only goes to the last small mark before the "full" line. I haven't hit any thing under the car. It can be slow to fill but I know it's full.....like really full, to the small filler hole full . Is there a way to reset the fuel gauge limits with a Vag-Com?
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I have a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L, it's the truck I learned to drive in (stick at 13yo) and the 1st car I crashed too... So now this baby is almost 30 years old and recently had a minor restoration...
Engine was pulled out and all gaskets were changed, spark plugs, wire... All that stuff... It has been running pretty good, however last week a water line broke on the Left side near the spark plugs (if you are looking at the truck)
Since then It has absolutely Zero power. The slightest hill and even when pedal to the floor will lose power. Yesterday went from the start of a hill at 60mph in 4th to 20mph in 2nd because it didn't have the guts to go 1/3 mile uphill... I checked everything I could, and my brother took it to the exhaust guy who made a small hole on the Catalytic Converter and said it was good, but he could tell it was running too rich...
I replaced some of the vacuum lines last night, I found a lose one on the fuel pressure regulator (I think that's what it is, Its towards the engine firewall on top).
Idles beautifully, drives great, no rough shifting, pinging or knocking, no misfires. So that's what has me stumped... Runs great but just no power... Also before water line broke it was running fine with power...
1987 Ford Ranger
2.3L FI
5sp manual, Rwd
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Where is the ambiant outside air temp sensor located on the Phaeton? I know it is located under the outside left or right mirror (based on model year) on a Volvo but not sure where it is on the Phaeton. No problems, just curious.
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Couldn't find a post for my year, but, I have a 2012 Elantra. I drive about a mile and I see 4-5 bars on my dash for the water temp. Is this common?
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The water temperature in my 97 3 liter Aerostar seems to be higher than I would expect when climbing a mountain road with the aircon on full. It was only about 75 degrees F and the elevation went from 300 feet up to 2,400 and the gauge was at 3/4 to the red zone.
I don't use aircon much here in the south Bay Area but as I recall the gauge on both my 96 and 97 Aeros was straight up during such climbs. The 96 is out of coolent so I can't compare it now.
The reason I'm rather concerned is we are about to leave on a 2,500 mile road trip with 4 people and lots of gear through Nevada and Utah and we'll climb a lot of passes in 90 degree heat or higher.
The mileage is about 135k and the water pump was replaced about 2 years ago. The radiator was replaced at about 100k.
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I recently observed coolant temps of up to 217 degrees as reported by my mini max and oil of 230 as reported by the dash while towing 9000 pounds from San Diego to Las Vegas on the 15 going up the 16 mile mountain grade. My temp gauge on the dash never moved a bit, it stayed in the same spot from 199 to 217 so I assume its not too hot. My mini max defuel setting has the coolant temp at 220? I slowed down and tried to keep it under 210.
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So my understanding is the water temp gauge at 200 degrees is pretty much spot on. The last three days I notice the temp gauge go to 200 then up to 240 which is like just one line away from the red zone. I turned on my heat full blast and was on the tollway and the temps went back to 200. The moment I got back into stop and go traffic the temp goes up again 220-240 range. Again, one line away from the red zone. No other alarms or dash messages come up. No smell of anti-freeze.
As well, the oil temp which was always at 200 has done the same thing. Running over 200 in the 220 plus range. Could this just be low anti-freeze? If so, would I not get a dash warning light?
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So lately I've been noticing that it takes a really long time for my water temp bars (on the dash) to go down to 0. At first I noticed this during the same time I discovered I had coolant leaking from the valley plate. I took the car in and had that sealed + fresh coolant added, but I'm still noticing that it's takes a really long time for the coolant to cool down, and I'm talking about leaving the car untouched for 3 or 4 hours, and the bar is still half way at operating temps, meanwhile the oil bar is completely at 0.
It hasn't been hot at all in SoCal lately, so I don't think this is attributable to weather. I checked the surrounding of the radiator and there doesn't seem to be a buildup of gunk that decreased air flow. During normal drives on city and highway, the temps are completely fine and don't seem to exceed the normal operating temp.
At this point I'm wondering if there's an issue with other supporting components like the temp. sensor, radiator ran, maybe the water pump?
Other relevant info: MY2011, 67k on the odometer.
Recent leak at valley plate, was resealed and fresh coolant added
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I've been having some issues shifting and been paying more attention to the gauges. On the first start of the morning since its gotten colder, the trans temp gauge gets warm quite quick just idling and the water temp goes no where for quite a while driving or idling.
The truck essentially doesn't shift normally until the water temp is up, over revs, and shifts are much more abrupt and at higher rpm's (like shift pressure is higher if there is such a thing).
My uneducated thinking I think the sensors are reversed, I would expect the water temp to go up while idling and not the trans temp.
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Looking at another 6.0. It's an 2005 with 156k. When test driving it on the scan gauge water temp stayed around 160 and don't believe it ever went above 170 if it even made that. Bad t-stat? Or a more significant issue? The other issue I seen that concerned me, is cruising at 65 for 10 minutes plus to check deltas their was up to a 20 degree difference so I'm thinking plugged oil cooler and bad egr cooler. Temps were 190 eot and maybe 170 ECT. Wasn't sure if the water temp issue affected the results on this reading or not.
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1992 3.0L aero crancks but won't start. Gives codes 114 and 116, these are about IAT and ECT sensors. Where is the ECT exactly located? I see 3 or 4 sensors that are screwed to intake manifold over there. I would like to find the sensor for dash cooling meter too, because it is moving only a fraction of the distance that it should. Thermosthat is checked, it seems to work.
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