I posted the following issue a year ago about my car, but the problem continues. when my 06 v8 phaeton is cold, there is variable engine rpm's with my foot steady on the gas at low speed and a flat surface. ie 1500 to 1700 to 1500 to 1700 etc. i can hear it feel it but it's subtle. the engine starts easy and runs perfect otherwise.
View 1 RepliesWe began to have an issue today with our 2010 Elantra. While driving, the Check Engine, Check Coolant and EPS lights all came on. The engine then would not speed up but run slow. The tachometer stopped working.
It was coming into our neighborhood, so we got it to our house. After checking around under the hood (fluid levels, etc.), all looked good. Then we noticed that the mats and carpet are wet up under the dashboard on both the driver and passenger sides. When I reached up into the dashboard over the wet areas, I feel water all along the wiring, etc.
I am guessing that water has leaked in somewhere, maybe after the rain storm last night. We have had the car two years and less than 15K miles. Why and where water would be coming in?
I'm having issues filling up my gas tank; I can't pump gas at full speed, not even at the slower setting that you can set the pump to. It just clicks off like it's full. When I pull the gas pump out i can see some gas has collected and it takes time to drain down the pipe. In order to fill the tank I have to hold the pump so it pumps slowly. It seems to be worse during hot weather; and the severity of it varies.
View 24 RepliesSo I noticed this ever since I got my Elantra (2013). When I have Active Eco on, it seems like the AC fan speeds up and slows down a little, sporadically.
View 9 RepliesIs it normal to have variable fan speeds when Ac is on? I understand on WOT Ac deactivates on some cars but when it happens I'm just cruising along coming to a stop, the fan speed increases.
View 1 Replies2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
Most of the time my speedometer isn't working. my cruise control works the same way. i've read that it could be the cruise control module or the variable speed relay.
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition has a lot of squeaks from the front. Most noticeable at low speed going over speed bumps or potholes. My mechanic has checked front end and says noise is coming from rear cradle bushings and wants to drop rear cradle and inspect/lube bushings. Also says sway links are dry and recommends lubing these as well. Everything else is OK. Estimate is $100-$150. Other than the annoying squeaking (which I can live with) is there any other reason (safety/mechanical) to get this done?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that squeaks when I turn left while in motion. It squeaks regardless of the degree of the turn but is more noticeable at slower speeds. The squeak isn't a screech so I don't think it's a belt. it isn't a grinding noise either. More like a "squeak, squeak, squeak." Seems to squeak with the rotation of the tire.
View 6 RepliesOn my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
View 3 RepliesOver the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
I noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
View 6 RepliesI own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
Recently, my 2003 manual honda civic accelerates very slowly, even the engine speed goes up to 4000 rpm. Usually it takes up to 1 minute to reach 60mph on high way. Is the clutch getting bad?
View 5 RepliesMy wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
V10... Suspect it's the power steering pump...
Seems to come from left of centre of engine. Not taken any covers off yet to see what can be seen..
Scans clear. It's arguably too loud even to drive! So needs some attention very soon.
2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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