Phaeton :: 2006 - Flashing Low Voltage Alarm - Battery Stopped Charging
Jul 24, 2016
My 2006 V8 sat for about 5 days last week. It started but apparently was flashing all kinds of low voltage alarms (according to my daughter, I was out of town)... She moved it aside and used another car... I charged the battery and cleared codes with the VCDS but within a day the battery was flat again. Battery test recommended replacing battery so I put a brand new battery in on Wednesday. We took the car on a trip of some 300 miles with no problems at all on Thursday, I drove the car Friday and Saturday with no indication of any problems (voltmeter in dash always sitting at 14+ volts, no messages or indications of any problems). Today (Sunday) battery is way flat again; my intelligent charger indicates 100% charge but just over 6 volts in the battery, and, based on the 100 % charge indications, stops charging and goes into Maintainer mode. My battery tester confirms the ~6 volts and recommends replacing the (brand new !) battery.
The battery management controller is: 3D0 915 181 D this being a 2006 should have the "updated" controller...
The car, suppose it is possible that this brand new battery is faulty but I believe it is much more likely something has gone haywire with the Phaeton...
Something is draining the battery after the car off and locked (I was alerted to look at the car because the lock lights on the door sill were no longer flashing).
If I can't charge up the battery to 12 volts yet another battery is indicated !?
In reading about battery problems I have never seen a suggestion on a particular device that fails ON and causes such a severe drain...
If the battery is in fact not being charged by the alternator how would this be checked ?
When I noticed no flashing lock lights on the car my first action was to disconnect the left (accessory) battery by taking off the negative lead. I then connected the charger which gave the indication of 100% charge but only 6 volts, and wouldn't charge beyond this. I disconnected the charger and connected the battery tester, which confirmed the 6 volt reading and recommended a new battery. I had to move the car as it was blocking other cars; I reconnected the battery and started the car by turning key to the left and back to the right, it started with "please start the engine" and a "level system fault" as expected, I could hear the switching relay in the trunk going on and off as expected, and I moved the car, left it running for a few minutes to move other cars, and parked it. I again removed the negative lead of the left hand battery and reconnected the charger. The "intelligent" charger now read 11.8 volts or so and a 16 % charge level, more reasonable but totally confusing as to why it changed. I disconnected the charger and used the battery tester which also read about 11.8 volts and, good news I guess, rated the battery OK. Right now the charger is reconnected and we'll see if it will bring the battery up to 12 volts and 100% charge...
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As I'm not driving my car, will leaving the engine idle for an hour:
1. charge the battery sufficiently each few days?
2. run the battery down
3. cause problems as no revving/load bearing on engine
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I have a 2002 ford taurus with a basic 3.0 v6 . The alternator stopped charging the battery.
New alternator
New battery
New pcm
Still nothing, this has been causing me the biggest headache. Alternator is pcm controlled btw...
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My 2006 V8 has starting problems since a few days ago.
After the problem occurred I was able to start the car using the right/left/right key turn but this worked only one time. Further attempts did not work. Upon the turn of the key all the dashboard lights would come up, the voltage appeared to come up over 12 volts but no joy on turning over the starter.
Vag Com scans on this car always showed some low voltage errors and the left side battery was old so I replaced the left side battery, something I had intended to do before too long anyway. After replacing the left side battery the car started once, not as it should but again using the right/left/right key sequence. I drove the car around the block and all seemed well, but after shutting it off, the same symptoms reappeared, no start...
Another poster had similar problems and it turned out to be relay 433 in the right side plenum relay/fuse box. I replaced this relay with a known good one, no change in the symptoms.
I disconnected the negative post of the starter battery, again after reading of another poster's experience, and the car starts right up ! Reconnecting the starter battery brings back the no start behavior.
I have no reason to suspect the starter battery, voltage is 12.6 or so...
Attached is a scan done on the car after installing the new left side battery:
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
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I have a 2006 V8 Phaeton and about 4 months ago the car alarm has begun to go off spontaneously while the car is parked. The dealer found no fault codes but concluded that my batteries needed replacement (~60K miles). I had both batteries replaced and that seemed to have solved the problem for awhile, but now it was begun again.
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The few times I monitored the 12V charging voltage with ScanGauge during driving it has been very stable at 14.0 ~ 14.1V for almost one hour worth of commuting time. Someone from another board commented that his charging voltage varies up and down and he suspects the charging voltage adjusts itself depending on the 12V battery SOC, and thus my battery may be so weak to require continuous charging at 14V.
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Sometimes my battery light will come on. It started happening about a few weeks ago. At the time i was on the parkway so i couldn't pull over and it was flashing a few times then stopped. It started doing it more often, now it did it around town so i would slow down and i could hear the belt squealing. It just happened again and this time my car sorta lost power but only for a second. Now my question is, how would i check if its
a) alternator,
b) the belt or
c) the tensioner?
Or, I won't know til i start messing with it?
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My Alarm seems to be having an issue recently. When I hit the remote the doors lock but the lights do not flash and the beep is gone. When I hit the remote to unlock, the lights flash. Last Night I opened all the doors hood/trunk and shut everything and the lights flashed and it beeped. Since I have no door indicator lights I was wondering if there is a sensor where it thinks the hood is open possibly? I am at 57k so I am still under warranty. I had a Blazer years back when the alarm started acting up, they had to replace the computer one time and I think the battery the second time. But I don't think it is that. I did have some work done recently to put a blower motor and Brake light switch in. I did see reference in another thread from 2 years ago about the alarm for a different model car. 2009 Sonata 3.3 ....
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My GS350 is a spare car that sits for weeks at a time and recently the battery fully discharged. After charging the battery and getting it running, when I go to the climate control on the touchscreen, I don't get any climate controls. I get the error "Please check air conditioner connection". Any quick way for me to reset or rectify this or do I need to go to the dealer? This error is a result of a dead battery?
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I drive a 2007 Lexus GS 350 with 60,000 miles on it. Today I was running an errand I parked my car and then went back to work. After four hours I came back to the parking lot and heard a really low beeping sound coming from the parking lot. It turned out to be my car. I tried to open the car door with my keyfob and nothing was working. I opened the door manually and was not able to turn the ignition on as there was no internal power. I finally jump started the car and alarm went off as the car started.
I got the battery tested and the battery was completely fine. I called the Lexus dealership and explained the problem and the technician did not think there was anything wrong with the starter or anything else with the engine. The gentleman I spoke to thought you might have been Keyfob battery that may have caused this. One thing that I noticed last couple of Was that the car air filter needs to be changed. Could that have caused this to happen?
Temperature has been in the 90s in the week or so! The car was parked in a covered parking ramp!
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I'm having an alarm issue that I didn't think much about until last night. Twice in the last three days I've come out to a completely dead battery because the alarm has been triggered. The first time it happen was at the gym and I thought maybe the car got bumped, I inspected it and found nothing out of place. Last night , I came out and the car was dead. This time the car wasn't around any other vehicles and was in a place that no one should have had to go by it. Something is a miss here and was wondering if any of you might have experienced anything similar? The first time it happen I was able to get into the vehicle using the key fob, last night I wasn't so lucky. I had to use a lock kit to get in so I could jump it. I had to do this because I usually separate my fob from the physical key so I don't have to carry them. Until this is resolved, I'll have to stop doing that.
One more thing, I noticed last night after getting the car jumped, I was able to drive home, park the car and when I went to set the alarm, my auto headlights would not shut off after hitting the "Lock" button several times on the fob. Every other time, hitting the lock button twice would always shut off the lights.
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6 months ago After replacing both the battery and the alternator..The seat belt light and battery light both began flashing and then going off ..with no loss of power.. It has been coming on a lot more lately,with no loss of power...I do have a mass air flow code coming up with no issues as far as the car goes..no issues driving. So with a new alternator and battery put in what can be the issue?
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I replaced the battery in my 2006 Hyundai Sonata (3.3 V6) 3 weeks ago. 5 days ago the battery light and seat belt lights started flashing. Both lights would flash then go off. This occurred on and off for 2 days (no change in driving condition) then stopped for 2 days. Today the lights are flashing again and right before turning my car off, the check engine light came on. I turned the car off, then re-started and the check engine light remains on. What could be causing this?
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2004 W12 nearing 78k miles
Recently I've been experiencing a strange voltage drop when coming to a stop. The voltage gauge on the dash cluster indicates a solid 14v when in drive however when I come to stop (still in drive) the voltage will slowly drop to 12v suggesting the alternator is no longer charging the battery or something.
I've read other places that there can sometimes be issues with the battery controller, would this be a potential symptom of that? I've never had a dead battery or anything like that. I also installed HID fog lights recently which could be related to this issue, considering removing them entirely..
I'm also wondering if it could be related to a strange clicking noise coming from the engine bay somewhere, possibly my alternator is dying, plastic guides getting worn on the timing chain?
I'm hoping this is a simple case of needing the serpentine belt to be replaced and "slipping" when at a stop or something. Is there any way to examine the belt without moving the bumper to the service position?
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My CEL came on and the code said Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage. Since there are 2 sensors, and my gauge isn't reading off, about 200F constantly, I assume the bad sensor is the water pump sensor. Also, is there a diagram of the sensorny locations and the easiest way to access them to swap them out. I have already purchased the sensor and gasket, just don't want to replace the wrong one or screw something else up in the process. It appears to be an easy job.
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I recently replaced the battery for my 2007 Lexus GS 350 and the AC stopped working. The AC button on the panel says "check air conditioner connection. The Audio button also says Audio off, although the ML is working, but It also doesn't show the channel.
I have checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. I purchased this car used under a year ago and everything was working fine until battery change.
The only modification previous owner has made is an iSimple to listen and o iPod from the car stereo. I have seen others on this forum having same symptoms when newly installed iSimple. Removing iSimple fixed their problem.
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i have a 2007 toyota camry LE, around 55,000 miles I wanted to install LED's under the dash on both driver and passenger sides using a tap-a-fuse adapter.. I tried tapping a fuse using the CIG lighter on the engine compartment.. it didn't work.. but i noticed after i failed the battery light came on.. then I checked all the fuses.. they were all fine. I got it checked by one mechanic he said its an alternator issue.. i now have 78,000 miles on the car and had no issues with the battery, start ups, or anything. I did however get a battery test and i was a little low on voltage but till this day i still have the battery light on but my car runs perfectly fine. Can it be a code issue?
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I was getting in my Touareg this morning after going to the doctor. As I turned onto the freeway onramp I noticed I had no turn signals at all and my battery voltage was pegged at zero and not fluctuating at all.
Had the battery replaced about 2,000 miles ago when I got the standard System Fault message, but it has started fine since. Even started fine this morning, etc.
Drove to the dealer while I was on the cell with my service manager who knows me by name.. I get there and shut the car off. Turn the alarm on and off and re-started it. Same thing....no turn signals and as I started it the battery voltage went up to 10 and back down to zero.
We're planning to leave it for service and it clears itself. Turn it on and off about 10 times with no error again.....very weird. Dealer needed to order some other warranty parts so they are going to check for any errors when I drop it off next week.
My voltage is consistently in the 12.5 to 13.5 range. Never at 14 volts. My tech at this dealer checked my vehicle the last time when they replaced the battery and said nothing needed to be replaced. Checked all the TSB's, etc. He and his wife have a T'reg so he seems to know his stuff.
I've heard the talk about the 14 volt reading, but he said that is not true, though it does have to have a 12.5 volt or above reading at all times per what he said. Service manager said they saw something similar last week and that owner was also getting some heavy radio static. I noticed some faint radio static, but was also listening to an AM station at the time. I do have NAV.
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We have a 2013 Prius V. We found our car out of battery on Friday - the 12V battery was very undercharged - the AAA tech read the numbers but I forget now exactly.
Clearly, we don't drive the car frequently enough. Two years and we haven't hit the 10,000miles mark yet. We did get back from a 500 mile road trip though on Sunday and drove the car twice (within a 5-10 mile radius - city driving). Yesterday & today I did an average of 60 odd miles but was often stuck in traffic so the battery indicator in the display doesn't show full either.
We have also kept the same "lifestyle" the last two years and never had an issue. I did check if any lights were left on but nothing was in the "on" position.
We were recommended both by AAA & the Toyota shop to keep a battery maintainer or just drive 200 odd miles a week! The AAA mechanic said, maybe the battery is conked out but the Toyota folks didn't say anything about it.
Our issue is that our car is parked in the basement of an apartment building and find no plug points nearby or even within a range we could try to get an extension cord. And even if we did talk to management and find a hook up, how would the logistics of it work? We are in an urban area and can't really leave a car unlocked.
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As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
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The P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
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