Phaeton :: 2005 V8 - Slight Engine Shudder When At Idle And Ethanol Free Gas?
Jan 2, 2014
On my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
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I'm the owner of a phaeton W12, i want to known if the engine can run with ethanol and with a kit. What are the risks for the fuel pumps, injection pump, injectors.
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2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
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I have an 06 Avalon that I just went through heck to change the plugs on but I did it. It did not clear my check engine light and actually it is blinking now and I still have the slight shudder like the car is losing power. Should I have changed the coils and if I do will this eliminate the problem? I am getting a bunch of misfire error codes and I am trying to eliminate these issues one at a time.
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I just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
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I am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
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Yesterday I filled my V10 with diesel and as soon as I started the engine to leave the petrol station the car seemed to shudder.
I joined the traffic and passed it off intially as poor road surface. But as I joined a queue to enter the motorway I realised it was the engine!
It was sort of surging, or perhaps it's better explained by saying it was dropping, shuddering down from say 800 RPM to around 400 then picking back up again. I revved it to 1000 RPM and it seemed fine, but if I let it drop to idle is carried on leaping and jerking for about another 3 or 4 minutes.
I then entered the motorway and it responded fine and the problem has not come back so far.
What could it be? Missing on one cylinder? Is this going to be problem? Hope not
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I did a timing belt replacement on the car. Checked the marks carefully for alignment since it took me nearly 2 hours to get them right to begin with, started the engine and it ran fine. Now, after putting the car back together again, the car will crank, and as long as I give it gas, idle smoothly at RPM's over 1000. Once I get my foot off of the gas, it will die, and I mean at once, no sputter or anything. I have pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it, and it seemed to do a little better in that i can let my foot off the gas and it will idle around 1000 RPM and slightly below, but it will eventually do the same, and the idle is ruff. I have also noticed while maintaining the higher RPM, there appears to be a slight surge in the RPM as if the car is trying to idle itself even higher off an on.
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I have a Phaeton V8, and at idle I can feel a slight rumbling in the cabin. Just slight, but I always imagined that you wouldn't be able to feel the engine idling clearly in the shaking of the cabin. Is everyone's like this?
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I have a 2009 with the 2.4L, 130Kmiles. I have engine shudder at idle and upon deceleration only. No check engine light so no codes-ran a hand held scanner no codes. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, pulled the spark plugs/coils and swapped them around- still getting shudder and no check engine light. Only thing I noticed is the spark plugs were dry to very wet with oil going right to left. Car was parked on level ground. I am completely stumped.
Other thing is I just got the car back from the dealers to fix the clock spring airbag recall, and the vsc light popped up on the drive home. I did call them but afraid the car will not make it there and my wallet might go on a severe diet after. Out of warranty and dealer said if it is their doing because they knock something loose while fixing the airbag clock spring there will be no charge otherwise it's 129 just to look.
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I have a 2005 f-150 with the 5.4 engine. Bought it new and now it has 107,000 miles on it. Recently,it would have a shudder at 65 or 75 mph then the passing gear would kick on and it worked perfectly. The warning check engine light came on,then,when it acted up it would flash intermittently. Took it in to the dealership and put it on the diagnosis machine. Said cylinders 2,3, and seven were not steady etc?? So,after he took it out and drove it he said those particular cylinder walls were scored. I put in a K-N air filter at about 50,000 miles,and he said that they do not seal properly and dust got by the filter into the intake and got into the engine and did this damage. One think he found was a bad coil on one cylinder and replaced it. And just as he said,when I got on the road home I romped on it and it cut out and the intermittent signal showed again! He said that that would happen and it did.
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Noticed a slight vibration from my engine at idle. Nothing too overbearing but just had a concern. How much should I expect if the engine mounts need replacement? Parts? Labor?
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I recently purchased a 2013 forester and noticed a slight shudder in the car once I start to accelerate but it only lasts until I hit 20mph or so then disappears. The salesman tried telling me it was a normal subaru characteristic and being new to AWD and subaru I was a suckered and listened to him but after owning the car for a week it's more noticeable than when I first drove the car off the lot. I'm not sure if its the tires out of balance or my half shafts or possibly drive shafts are screwy.
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Picked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
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I have a 2005 Limited and when I start there's a slight hesitation then the power comes on. Also, when I let off the gas and the car slow's to about 20 and below there's a little "reverse surge." The power starting out and decel'ing isn't linear. It's got a little hiccup.
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Im a newbie to the Camry's. Picked up from a relative a 07 Camry for $5k. It has 103K on it.
It has an issue to where it has some codes and the check engine light on with P0018, P0019, P0300, P0302, P0306 codes. They just all cam eup al lof a sudden while driving. Slight miss at idle which is the misfire codes but I can't pinpoint the issue for the P0018 and P0019 codes.
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About three weeks ago I noticed a slight shudder in my 2008 Ford Taurus with app. 75,000 miles (automatic). It did not come from the steering wheel, but the car itself seemed to be shaking, but only slightly. Like someone who's had too much caffeine holding out an unsteady hand kind of shudder. It was going in for an oil change anyway, so I had my mechanic check it out, even thought the shudder was gone the next day. It came back, for a few moments while the mechanic was driving. He couldn't tell what was causing it, but said not to worry.
Two days later when I was in the car for the first time that day the car jerked when I put it in reverse out of park. I checked the transmission fluid, and, sure enough, it was about a quart low. All symptoms went away. I took it back in to double check that there was no leak and that everything seemed in good working order. The car was given the all-clear.
Then this week the shudder returned, again, only sometimes. It doesn't seem related to temperature, distance driven, or weather. And the maddening thing is that it only does it sometimes. I checked the transmission fluid again and it is still in the safe zone.
Two days ago, after being parked overnight, the car shook very noticeably for about ten seconds the first time I switched it out of park, first into reverse, then into drive. This was different to the other shudder (I know, seriously). This was a shake, like the bass in a super strong stereo was cranked. Then it stopped and the car drove just fine. I parked it for twelve hours then switched the gears again. Nothing out of the ordinary happened.
Today it had no issue when I first switched gears, but while I drove (for about a half an hour) that original slight shudder was there. This time at all speeds, not just low ones. I went where I needed to go, drove it again about four hours later and it was fine. No shudder, nothing and this drive went through road work with stop and go traffic as well as some time on a highway at speeds up to 55mph. I drove it another time after that, and again, no symptoms. Finally, I drove to the store. The shudder had returned. I parked, shopped for about 15-20 minutes, returned to the car, and it hesitated to accelerate as I pulled out of the spot. It did not jerk or seem to try to catch up. It simply delayed, but accelerated smoothly.
I parked again and let it rest for about 10 minutes, started it up, and no trouble at all. Even that weird shudder was gone. I think this car is toying with me. I'm taking it back to the mechanic, but the trouble is that it doesn't always have these symptoms. I drove it Thursday on a two hour trip and back again with no issues at all. This might make it difficult for the mechanic to diagnose, but at least it's a guy I trust. There are no warning lights on, no smells (unless they are faint as I don't smell things well), and no strange sounds.
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My girlfriend has an 05 ford escape with a 3.0 the car has been well maintained it has 184,000 miles on it. Over 3/4 of the miles were highway. I have noticed that it has had a slight engine ticking noise i have researched and some say the tensioner some say retorque the cams? I have not been around these cars much. I replaced the alternator the other day and serp belt all pullys felt fine. The engine used to tick all the time here lately sometimes when it gets started it does it and sometimes it doesn't.
Also what fluid is supposed to be ran in the tranny the owners manual just says mercon, so do i just run regular strait mercon fluid in it? or does it need like mercon V. The car runs fine i just want to fix the ticking noise if its something major. Just some thing I've hear about on a buddys newer f150 with a 5.4 the oil supply ports that lube the timing chain tensioner got plugged and it developed a ticking noise? I am a mechanic so i can check and do anything i just dont know where to start on this car?
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I have a high milage (210K) '07 2.4L which has a slight engine rattling noise at idle RPM at cold and operating temps, in gear or park. It is a fairly constant noise at idle but does vary a little. Otherwise, engine/tranny operate beautifully with no obvious problems.
I am concerned this could be a timing chain/tensioner related issue although I also wonder if it may be some other component. I have not been able to determine the source or location of the sound.
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I got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
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I had the transmission replaced last fall under warranty. the VW rebuilt unit was 09L 300 035 PX. When unit was replaced the dealer used G 060 162 A2 as the fluid. Was that the right oil? Shouldn't they have used the upgraded G 055162 A2 and the new reflash? The shudder has started to return and I am off of warranty.
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