I have a 2005 V8 Phateon. The molding on the driver side and rear passenger side door molding is coming off. Any clips you have to buy or can you just slide it off and put it back? Don't want to break anything trying to take the molding off.
View 2 RepliesChrome Side Molding coming loose on passenger back door. I tried a clear silicon and clamped for 3 hours. Unclamped and trim is lifting back up ?
Looks like clip behind trim snapped. Any kind of glue or adhesive can be recommend that will work?
While clamping trim to door I put a crimp mark in trim. Somewhere down the road I will replace this crimped trim.
Twice now I have taken my 2011 Avalon to a drive-thru car wash and had the roof molding pop out of the channel. The first time I had this problem was when I went to a car wash that had large roller brushes that contact the vehicle. When I exited the car wash I saw that the driver's side roof molding had popped out. It was a quick fix to just pop it back in but of course the concern is that it could come all the ways out and be lost either on the road or in the wash bay.
So, for the next wash I took it to a "touchless" wash and when I pulled out the bay I saw that the passenger's side roof molding had popped out of its channel. So, I am guessing that since there are no brushes contacting the car that it is either the power of the blow dryer or the power of the water spray or a combination of all the above that is causing them to pop out.
I've noticed on both rear doors, the Lower Moulding (black cover at the bottom of the door) #12 in the attached diagram (Light Blue Circle), is very much separated from the body of the car, it's like bended toward the outside, but it seems to be exactly the same on both sides, I am not sure if this is normal or mine has a defect
Both front doors are OK, not 100% perfectly aligned with the body of the car, but MUCH better than the rear doors....
I had a couple of questions about a 2006 Lexus GS300.
The reason I came here is because her GS300 has 3 issues and being this thing is one massive computer... I figured I'd ask you about them and make sure I wasn't getting in over my head in case the repair costs would be substantial.
1st issue: When sitting in the front passenger seat or either back seat with a window, the window goes down fine when using that switch. When sitting in the drivers seat, the only window the driver can put down is the drivers window. The passenger front/rear and drivers rear does not work. Is this a known issue? How to resolve?
2nd issue: When listening to music, regardless of output (xm, fm, cd, etc), audio is only coming out of the passenger side of the car. There is nothing coming out of any speaker on the drivers side. Possible amp issue?
3rd issue: When trying to operate the moonroof, nothing is done automatically. My mother tells me she used to hit open, and the moonroof would open automatically, same with closing. Now, you have to hold the button down manually to get it to the location you want and have to play with the button to get it to shut properly.
Yesterday I took the car out to do some Christmas shopping and after driving it for about 20mins I heard this whine coming from the driver side (outside). I turned off the music and air vents and noticed as I slowed down the noise got worse and as I increased my speed the noise some what dissipated.
Also the noised seemed to match the pitch of the engine almost like when the radio gets engine interference from some of the older cars. So towed the car to the dealership and they are telling me that I have a leaking power steering hose which does not make much sense to me due to the noise and lack of steering fluid under the car.
I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
View 7 RepliesHistory - So my A/C was going out about 6 months ago. It would come in and out with cold air until eventually it just stopped all cold air and was only hot. Then the control knobs broke. I took it in and they told me I had to replace the control unit and that would fix all the issues. Well I got it back and the A/C was still blowing hot air (even though the knobs were now working).
So I took it back in and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it must be this hairline crack that was leaking freon. they said they couldn't find the crack but loaded it up with freon and said i would have to 'wait it out' could be years could be a few weeks, they just didn't know. well, it worked for awhile but here i am in 102 degree heat and when I turn on the A/C in the really hot car the passenger side quickly blows cold air and the driver side takes about 20 minutes before it finally gets cold. What gives? I do not have dual temperature controls.
Replaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
Car is 2006 SWB 3.0 Tdi.
I've recently noticed a sloshing noise coming from the rear passenger door - I would estimate between 1 and 2 litres in there! I can't find any other post with these faults, so I've a couple of questions.
Firstly, I'm guessing the ingress is from the seals at the bottom of the window. I can't find a procedure to replace them...
Secondly, how to get the water out... It seems the water will be trapped in there - there's no natural way for the water to escape. If so, I'm tempted to drill a hole to let it escape.
Where would be best to drill the hole? Where water ingress is likely to accumulate?
I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
Learning how to operate my newly acquired 2004 V8 Phaeton...not too mention convincing me to purchase one. I think I even like its occassional quirkiness, such as TPMS faults - its like it has a personality.
Anyway, I have not found an answer to a problem which started yesterday:
- Rear driver-side door won't operate using outside handle
- Confirmed its unlocked, can open from inside & child locks (not that those should affect it) are off
- No problem opening passenger side rear door
- I think I hear a mechanism in the door moving when I pull the outside handle on the working side, don't hear it on the non-working door
I believe there is a cable which is attached to the door handle which may have come loose. I do have a VW Real Driver Warranty (10 Years)...and although door handles are specifically excluded, I don't think this is likely a "door handle" problem, but rather something inside the door which has broken.
The rear drivers sunshade (the larger of the two, for the main window) goes up around three or four inches and then stops.
View 6 RepliesDriving over the weekend, I randomly noticed that there was a large crack 3/4 of the way across the rear driver's side window. What caused it (there appears to be an impact mark on the outside and I guess it just spread from there). This morning, the crack was completely across the window.
View 9 RepliesI've noticed some wind noise that seems to be coming from somewhere around my drivers door. It has probably been there for a while, but my previous tires were so damn noisy I couldn't hear it. Replaced tires a few weeks ago (much quieter tires!) and now I notice it again. The door doesn't leak water. Maybe it's normal.
View 24 RepliesAwhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
View 3 RepliesMy 2008 460 has the damn peeling drip molding on the passenger side. I found a wrecked 07 gs of the same color in a local wrecking yard and I was wondering how hard it is to pull off the drip molding myself. Do I need any special service tools? Don't want to damage my car.
View 2 RepliesChrome trim on passenger side near headlight popped out some of it broken (only the pieces on the inside) any way I could salvage this trim without having to buy a new 1?...
View 4 RepliesOn my Phaeton, I've got some paint chipping right below one of the rear tail lights. It is strange since this is not an area that would get any type of abuse, and I don't think the tail lights have been removed before. I am wondering if this is something that I could touch up myself. If not, should I get a dealer to look at it?
View 4 RepliesI've only started noticing this recently. I have a 2004 W12 with roughly 75k miles. It seems to only happen after the engine warms up, but even then its seemingly randomly. I'll notice a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of the engine. The sound increases in frequency as I rev the engine. I have no check engine lights and no noticeable loss of power. Its not a radiator fan since the sound is still audible when the hood is open. I'm getting no CAN errors with my generic OBDII scanner (I know its not a VAG-COM but hey).
I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".
I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?