Phaeton :: 2005 V8 Engine Cooling Fan Not Running
Oct 14, 2015
My 05 V8 Phaeton radiator cooling fan is not running and hence engine overheats. The AC cooling fan works alright, it comes on when i switch on the AC. I have verified that the actual radiator cooling fan works by plugging it to the ac cooling fan socket. I have checked fuses and all ok. there are no dealers near me. I have also gone through all the cooling fan threads and all of them are for constant running fans, none for a non running fan.
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I have a problem with the engine cooling fan (driver side) - is not running. The other fan is working properly. On this arrangement driving on the high way the engine cooling is OK. Driving in the city the oil temperature is richening 215 -220 F (however the water temp. is OK at 200F) and the AC unit is stopping (I am assuming because of that). V8 Phaeton...
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I noticed that in some cars (even new ones) the cooling fan stays on for a minute or two, even after the engine has been turned off and the key removed.
This caused me a little bit of curiosity —keep in mind I'm not very car-savvy— so I wanted to ask: Why is that?
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Both engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
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I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
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2nd time happening to me: I started my car, backed up and drove few hundred feet before stopping at a traffic light.
While stopping there, I noticed the engine cooling fan was running at max and the temperature was going rapidly up (in less than 10sec the gauge almost hit the red line).
While the gauge was going up I shifted the gear stick to P and the gauge dropped to normal in less than 5sec.
I shifted back to D and the car drove normally ever since.
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My father and I have an '05 W12 Phaeton with 54k miles. It's developed a peculiar humming noise (very harmonic like a resonance) that is present any time the car is running. My father insists on taking the car to an independent European car repair facility instead of the dealership (much to my displeasure).
The shop first said it was transmission related and advised a fluid change. This did nothing to fix the issue and I'm not even confident that they have the ability to do such a thing correctly without dealer specific tools. Car never left the shop as that obviously did nothing.
Next, they claim there resonance was felt / heard through an oil line. They changed oil and filter thinking bad oil filter (crazy, I know). This also did nothing.
Now, they say that they attempted bypassing the oil cooler and this made the noise go away. The are advising replacement of the oil cooler assembly.
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So i bought a 2005 Bentley continental gt and I have been told many times by different mechanics and owners that this car is almost like the VW Phaeton. Ever since i got the car, it had this problem so i don't know what caused it and how it can be fixed but basically all of my electronic components such as lights, windows, key fob remote, etc only work when the car's engine is actually turned on and running. As soon as i turn the engine off i hear a click in the trunk area and everything shuts off at the same time. It seems like some kind of safety cut off or something. It happens almost everytime and i have to close the doors manually with the key. Both batteries are brand new.
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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I'm curious whether something is wrong with the cooling function on my seats. While a +3 on the control seems to heat the entire seat rapidly and at a high temp, a -3 only gives me a moderate airflow out of the area under my thighs. Is the air supposed to flow out of the entire perforated region of the leather (upper back and inner-side sections) or is what I am experiencing normal?
Was thinking maybe I need to replace a component to get a stronger airflow out of the seat.
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I've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
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I just noticed that my '05 Phaeton's horn doesn't work when the engine is turned off. It works fine when it's on. Is this normal behavior? If not, does it represent a low battery and the Phaeton magically trying to conserve energy? Or something else?
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On my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
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Yesterday, I had to accelerate really really fast...ever since then, my fan does not turn off (when the car starts). I just started the car cold and it is running. I think the fan relay has gone out. I'm not sure which fan exactly...but when I opened the hood, I see that the fan behind the radiator is the one that is spinning.
Where is the relay for the fan is in the main junction box under the hood (near the front left strut)? Can I put the relay out (by hand) while the car is running? Can I also drive to work for a day or so with the fan on while I wait for a fan relay?
Toyota 2000 Corolla (CE 4-spd auto) with 60k miles.
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Recently, I've noticed that sometimes my driver's seat gets hot, even though the switch is in the cooling mode. I had gotten in the habit of turning the switch back to the detent "0" setting, and then put it back into the cooling mode (-1 to -3) and all would work well again. However, yesterday, that little trick didn't seem to work and so it seems my seat heater is being activated even when the switch is supposed to be telling it only to run the seat ventilation fan. Is it likely just a failing switch?
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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I recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
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We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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