Phaeton :: 2005 - Starts Up Fine When Disconnect Starter Battery
Jul 9, 2011
I have been suffering from LH battery drain for some time now. sometimes its random I will park it for 10 min. come back and the battery is drained (I have to use the key to gain entry). sometimes it only happens over night, where other times the battery doesn't go dead overnight. so last weekend I decided to change the brakes...That was easy but then I forgot to hook up my battery maintainer...so you know what happened! now the problem is I charged the battery and hooked it back up. No start! everything works fine the battery is fully charged and only 1 year old.
But this is the weird part if I disconnect the starter battery the car starts up fine. I hook both batteries back up and try the parallel start way (turn to start then full counter clockwise then full clockwise several times no luck). the LH battery is drained now after a few start and stops (no driving) and the starter battery is fully charged. but with both batteries hooked up it wont even attempt to start and now I also have no power to the power trunk!!! this car is starting to suck balls.
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What is wrong with her car. It is an 05 subaru outback 3.0. She bought it 4 months ago. A week ago the battery died at red light. It tested bad and was replaced. Then yesterday it died at stop sign. Jumped it and died in 5 seconds. Before dying, car would not rev. Jumped it leaving cables on for 5 minutes since battery was almost drained. She made it half mile back to office and coasted into lot. Battery tested good but drained and was fully charged. Alternator tested 7 times to be certain. We bought a 10A multimeter (our town has no 20A).
Tested for parasitic drain. No results. We took Alternator off and tested a couple more times. We took out non essential fuses to be safe. Nothing was left running. There was a phone charger that has been plugged in for the whole four months. She took it out for good measure. Starter tested good. 3 people said battery cables are good. They appear to be non corroded and tight imo as well. They checked fuel pump. All was well.
She wants to go on vacation for the 4th but is scared to try. Mechanic friend said wait until it happens again, go to o reileys and demand them replace the battery as it has to be bad even if testing good. I'm not sure of this is the correct approach, but what else is there? One online mechanic said a voltage test on electrical system is next step but only a few select mechanics even know how to do it such as one that specializes in electrical wiring or something like that.
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This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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My wife has a 2002 Thunderbird. Sometimes it won’t start when you turn the key. I don’t mean it doesn’t crank or cranks slowly, nothing happens. You can hear relays clicking but obviously no power is getting to the starter - the lights don’t dim when this happens. We’ve had the starter motor replaced. My mechanic is baffled. Sometimes this happens hourly, sometimes it will go weeks without happening – it’s been doing this for at least a year. To get it started, you just need to sit there and keep turning the key 10 to 40 times. It will eventually start. She just informed me that sometimes she shuts off the car in something other than Park, them moves to Park. Can this mess up the xmission lever position lockout to cause this? How can it just start by turning the key, only, multiple times? Remember, you can hear relays clicking when the key is turned.
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I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
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My daughter called me and said her "battery light" came on. I didn't even know there were battery lights. The car still starts and runs fine. What could cause the "battery light" to come on?
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I tried to jump my phaeton and it would click but not completely turn over and i absolutely cant get it to start. the radio, lights, windows, and things of that nature are still working. So i need to know how to replace the battery i.e. (disconnecting it and can i replace it with a battery from an auto store?) If not, how much should i expect to spend and what else could it possibly be??
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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The car will start up and drive just fine but as soon as you turn it off, it will not turn back on. If you wait three to four hours it will restart with no problem. This repeats its self daily. When you turn the key the dash lights come on but will not crank at all. I am skeptical that it might be the alarm system;however, there is no key fab and no code for the check engine. It has 170K miles. Laughing, my sweet husband dictated this...my first attempt to describe the problem was long and rambling!
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Have 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
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This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
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How I'd disconnect the battery power? I don't have the owner's manual handy. I'm attempting to reset all systems to clear a 'steering defect workshop' warning. I've removed the cover and think I see the battery (there's a black bar over it that I can't remove by hand).
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Just picked the Explorer up from the shop getting a new radiator. This question has nothing to do with the radiator, but the fact that the mechanic was not gentle on the drivers door like I've learned to be. Now, the door wont latch. It will close and lock, but still reads DOOR AJAR. The thing is, there is no way to keep the interior light from staying on...except to disconnect the battery. Until I can get this fixed, can I remove the bulbs from my interior lights, or will the battery still run power to them even without a bulb? Trying not to disconnect the battery everytime I park.
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o5 P with a bad brake light switch (going in next week) ran the left battery flat. Charged it back up and car runs fine but electric trunk is now non-op. Button on emblem will make a click and flash taillights but no action. Same with fob. Same with button on trunk and button in door. Valet switch is off. I tried the reset with manual trunk open, fob, button but no joy. I believe I read there's a trunk reset in VagCom. Latch and manual key work fine. Did I blow a fuse to the latch?
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So I bought this 1997 Saturn SW2 that had its engine replaced. I think they wired it wrong when they did it. They only way to start it is to disconnect the battery then reconnect it. If you don't and just shut it off with the key and wait a minute, when you turn the key to the on position, the instrument panel will not come back on without disconnecting the battery. However, if you start the car and then shut it off, then turn the key right back on (less than a minute) you can start the car without disconnecting the battery. It's like something needs to be reset once you shut the car off and leave it off for a while.
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My 2007 lexus es 350 engine will not shut off after I push the off button.
The everything goes off except the engine and the dash lights. I have to disconnect the battery to shut off the engine. The car does not have a remote start. could it be a relay and if so which one.
Last night I left the car battery disconnected and then this morning reattached and everything seemed fine. I started the car and let it fun for a couple minutes and then pushed the button and the car shut off. Then about 2o minutes later the alarm went off. The remote would not respond so I started the car and the alarm went off. Then I pushed the button to turn it off and the same problem occurred.
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I want to disconnect the battery, clean the terminals and ground etc and reconnect. I don't have the factory radio so no code needed. Is there any other settings that will be lost? Do I need to recode the remotes?
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I have a mk4 golf gti vr6. For about the past month every few days when I shut off my car and then try to start it next time I get a very fast clicks. After I disconnect and reconnect the battery it starts up just fine. Yesterday after getting off the highway it shutoff when I came to a stop. Took the key out and before I disconnected the battery it started back up with a turn of the key. I'm guessing it's some kind of ECU issue because it starts up after I reconnect the battery?
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I am 150 mi from my service dealer and my 2005 W12 won't start . The dash lights go on , a/c vents open etc, but the keyless start or the key itself does nothing .
I recall that there may be a way to use the Accessory Battery to start the car, but I don't recall the routine. I don't want to have any local roadside service messing around. BTW it is the original battery and shows about 14amps.
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