Phaeton :: 2004 - Left And Right Struts The Same - Replacement?
Jul 22, 2013
probably need a right front strut, but have a number of questions about a remanufactured stut specific to my phaeton:
1. are the left and right struts the same? different oem part numbers, but some remanufactured struts say they replace either side numbers?
2. my 04 has had the struts replaced due to one strut having failed, are the remanufactured struts all configured to fit the new replacement struts (all say "04-06 model years, but no mention of early 04 struts)?
3. are the w12 struts different from the v8 struts, i haven't seen part numbers but i note there is are few dollars difference in oem cost and there is a different "box" to check in ordering from a vw supplier for the v8 strut as oppoaed to the w12 strut. (simply, will the v8 strut fit a w12)?
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Could my strut replacement have anything to do with my 2009 pulling left when I brake.
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The other day my 2003 Subaru Forester was getting its oil changed and when it was done the mechanic informed me that my struts were leaking and needed to be replaced. He didn't seem to think it was urgent or anything. He mentioned something about roll overs and the wearing of the tires, but I'm not entirely sure what this means for the car. It has 140K on it, and I drive it a lot on the high way. I'm also planning to go on a trip in Mid July that's about a thousand mile drive. So, how soon should this be done? What do leaking struts mean for a car?
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I've purchased my 2006 Sonata (LX) 2 years ago and noticed a very bouncy feeling when I drive. When I hit potholes and bumps I can feel the impact on the lower body, and when turning, hitting a bump would pull the car slightly in one direction. I've read through the forums that this might be normal (?) for 2006 Sonata's? I wanted to make sure if this is common occurrence and if changing the struts would make any difference. Here are pictures of my front and rear struts......
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When I push down (to test the suspension) on the front left part of my car, it depresses and comes up. The car stabilizes (stops shaking) nearly instantly. However, when I press it down, it makes a squeaky sound. Sort of a short lived, high pitch sound. The sound comes from the area where the struts/coil springs are located. I drive a 1998 Honda Civic DX 2-door.
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Looking for detailed instructions on replacing the low beam passenger side headlight on a 2004 Phaeton...
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I just had the timing belt (water pump and thermostat) replaced in my 2004 V8. I drove it home from the dealer (75 miles or so) without incident. Drove it to and from work (4 miles) without incident for a few days.
Last night I drove ~5 miles, idled in a parking lot for ~10 min and then drove another 5 miles and it overheated. Once I shut off the car it would not come back on. I waited for it to drop below 200C and it still didn't start. Electric consumers would come on all was well....but no start.
Car was towed to the local VW dealer who do not have a phaeton tech. After the hour and half it took for the tow truck to arrive and half an hour to tow it....it started up.
I am now thinking about my next move. As I read through everyone's overheating experiences they are mostly
1. Failed thermostat (which one? does the bottom thermostat control water pump operation?)
2. Fan issues
3. Air in the coolant line following a flush (could be, but I drove it home in the cold on the first day with the heater on)
4. False readings due to a bum (upper?) thermostat.
I have a VCDS but have not been able to get out to the car to give it a shot.
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My left driver side parking light is out.
Can you get to that light to replace it easily, without removing bumper, etc??
And if so, what kind of bulb does it take??
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We have an 04 v8 phaeton. Hubby just changed timing belt with the blauparts top kit. He rented their tools. When he went to attach the bar it didnt line up. He finally got it all back together and it runs fine. The vag com scares me, though.
Those codes say...
- 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil
on and the other
- 16395 Bank 1 p0011-002 retard setpoint not reached over advanced mil on.
He just ran the scan today and we are leaving on a 1500 mile trip tomorrow. He says he knows it lined up right...im doubting it. We have driven it about 500 miles since he changed it...no problem. I don't want to risk damaging something. Would you take it on a trip with that code?
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I have a 2004 V8, still running strong at over 101,550 miles. Aside from two strange warnings, it's a total blast to drive. It's especially fun to shock people with the interior, since most people just think it looks like a big Passat. They probably thing it's a bit large for a VW, roll their eyes, and then move on their lives, mistaking one of the most underrated cars in history for Germany's answer to the Toyota Avalon. However, all that is not really relevant right now.
What's relevant is that it randomly complains that there is some malfunction in the left rear signal. Specifically, it's the left rear one. Funnily enough, when it happens, the left rear signal starts working again after restarting the car, removing the key before doing so in order to restart the onboard computer systems. What's going on?
A second, significantly-less annoying problem is that it randomly complains that one of the tires is flat (probably the spare), even though the spare tire is properly-inflated. Once it happens, the car has to be rebooted in order to get rid of the warning, which always happens within five minutes of starting the car.
Needless to say, other that the above, it's a blast to drive.
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Attempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
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Looking for info on these replacements and is there any manuals out there to assist with the process?
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i am the original owner of a 2004 Prius with about 120k miles. I am considering replacing the struts even though they aren't horrible. I figure I won't have the car more than 240k miles so might as well get the struts on earlier rather than later so I enjoy them as long as possible.
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I'm looking at replacing the struts and shocks in my 04 Prius. Last time I replaced them with some cheap KYBs I found on auto parts warehouse. I was hoping for an improvement over the old worn out parts, but didn't feel an improvement. Well after 5+ years and who knows how many miles I figured it was time to replace them again.
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I've owned my '04 echo since new. It now has 172,000 km on it. It still has the factory original shocks and struts in it. Surely its time to replace them. I've never owned a car that used struts before. Now I have read here before if they aren't leaking then they are ok.
I guess I could do the old shock test of bouncing the car up and down and see how many times the car bounces after you stop pushing up and down on the fenders. The car just seems to ride harsher over the bumps in the road now.
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How to replace the windshield washer nozzle? If it makes a difference it's the driver side one. It's clogged and I'd like to try and soak it in some stuff to dissolve the clog and/or replace it myself. The dealer was going to charge me ~$150 to do this and trying to see if I can do it myself.
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I got the dreaded "stop, too low" warning this morning on my 04. It went up when I started the car, so I figured it must be a leak and not the compressor. Well I just tried starting it again and now it won't go up at all.
I recall seeing a Phaeton for sale online where the owner replaced the air suspension with coilovers. I've been searching online for any info on such a conversion, but I haven't found anything.
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I got up to a cold, 25 below, morning... Went out to find 2 Phaetons that had to be left out overnight, SLAMMED!
They were both low ridas. I started them up easily, but no inflation of the suspension. Too Low Warning light on both dashes.
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The catalytic converters are very hot and the one upper left, when looking into the engine, is even red. The engine runs less than 10 minutes a the converters become very hot. I think when the engine run another 30 minutes, then I have a firework.
And that's not all. If the engine is idling, it's everything o. k. But if accelerates over 2.500 RPM, then it smokes as a locomotive. The smoke is white, dense and it smells like unburned fuel.
So I ask, are the converters blocked and I need to change them, or is the engine before death?
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My V6 Tdi is in the garage with a leaking cylinder head, this is the 2nd time the head has required replacing first at 46,000 now the replacement head is leaking ( porous ) after being on the car for 80,000. So ! 2 heads in 2 years.
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