Phaeton :: 2004 - Voltage Drop When Coming To A Stop
Jan 29, 2015
2004 W12 nearing 78k miles
Recently I've been experiencing a strange voltage drop when coming to a stop. The voltage gauge on the dash cluster indicates a solid 14v when in drive however when I come to stop (still in drive) the voltage will slowly drop to 12v suggesting the alternator is no longer charging the battery or something.
I've read other places that there can sometimes be issues with the battery controller, would this be a potential symptom of that? I've never had a dead battery or anything like that. I also installed HID fog lights recently which could be related to this issue, considering removing them entirely..
I'm also wondering if it could be related to a strange clicking noise coming from the engine bay somewhere, possibly my alternator is dying, plastic guides getting worn on the timing chain?
I'm hoping this is a simple case of needing the serpentine belt to be replaced and "slipping" when at a stop or something. Is there any way to examine the belt without moving the bumper to the service position?
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I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I moved my Walbro to the engine bay and reran my wires. Now I couldn't find the most detailed DIY to use for reference but I ran a 20A circuit breaker from terminal 75x under the dash. From there an inline relay that I believe is hooked up correctly.
So I noticed my fuel pump wasn't running while the car is running. It wasn't even priming so I started checking connections and what not. I then noticed that when my power wire is connected to the pump I only read about 4V on the pump. If I disconnect the line and test it with no load applied I get 12-13V steady.
I thought maybe my pump had gone bad but if I apply 12v straight to it it runs just fine.
So my question is WTF!? Electronically this doesn't make sense. Physically it makes no sense. I moved the wires from one side of the car to the other. Nothing changed. Why would I be losing so much voltage with the load applied?
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1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
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Diagnosing the following behavior with a '99 4Runner.
A couple months ago it was hard to start and the battery wasn't fully charging. It cranked but not very strongly and took a few times to turn over. The battery was old so I figured it was bad and replaced it.
Everything was fine for a couple weeks then it started doing nothing every other time I'd turn the key to start. All the dash lights and everything would come on but when I turned the key to start, it wouldn't even click, nothing. When it would crank, it started up fine. After a while it started taking 5-6 attempts to engage the starter and eventually like 20-30 and then wouldn't start at all.
I check the battery with a MM and it was reading 3.5v! I pulled the leads off and the voltage started to rise, after about an hour it was up to 8v. But when I put the cables on it immediately drops back to 3.5v. I pulled the fuses one by one, reconnecting the batt cables in between to see if I could isolate the circuit that was causing the drop but no luck. There were a few fuses that were bolted in that I couldn't get out though.
Anyway, there must be something that ties all this behavior together, maybe a bad relay or something?
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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My 2006 V8 has starting problems since a few days ago.
After the problem occurred I was able to start the car using the right/left/right key turn but this worked only one time. Further attempts did not work. Upon the turn of the key all the dashboard lights would come up, the voltage appeared to come up over 12 volts but no joy on turning over the starter.
Vag Com scans on this car always showed some low voltage errors and the left side battery was old so I replaced the left side battery, something I had intended to do before too long anyway. After replacing the left side battery the car started once, not as it should but again using the right/left/right key sequence. I drove the car around the block and all seemed well, but after shutting it off, the same symptoms reappeared, no start...
Another poster had similar problems and it turned out to be relay 433 in the right side plenum relay/fuse box. I replaced this relay with a known good one, no change in the symptoms.
I disconnected the negative post of the starter battery, again after reading of another poster's experience, and the car starts right up ! Reconnecting the starter battery brings back the no start behavior.
I have no reason to suspect the starter battery, voltage is 12.6 or so...
Attached is a scan done on the car after installing the new left side battery:
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
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My CEL came on and the code said Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage. Since there are 2 sensors, and my gauge isn't reading off, about 200F constantly, I assume the bad sensor is the water pump sensor. Also, is there a diagram of the sensorny locations and the easiest way to access them to swap them out. I have already purchased the sensor and gasket, just don't want to replace the wrong one or screw something else up in the process. It appears to be an easy job.
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My 2006 V8 sat for about 5 days last week. It started but apparently was flashing all kinds of low voltage alarms (according to my daughter, I was out of town)... She moved it aside and used another car... I charged the battery and cleared codes with the VCDS but within a day the battery was flat again. Battery test recommended replacing battery so I put a brand new battery in on Wednesday. We took the car on a trip of some 300 miles with no problems at all on Thursday, I drove the car Friday and Saturday with no indication of any problems (voltmeter in dash always sitting at 14+ volts, no messages or indications of any problems). Today (Sunday) battery is way flat again; my intelligent charger indicates 100% charge but just over 6 volts in the battery, and, based on the 100 % charge indications, stops charging and goes into Maintainer mode. My battery tester confirms the ~6 volts and recommends replacing the (brand new !) battery.
The battery management controller is: 3D0 915 181 D this being a 2006 should have the "updated" controller...
The car, suppose it is possible that this brand new battery is faulty but I believe it is much more likely something has gone haywire with the Phaeton...
Something is draining the battery after the car off and locked (I was alerted to look at the car because the lock lights on the door sill were no longer flashing).
If I can't charge up the battery to 12 volts yet another battery is indicated !?
In reading about battery problems I have never seen a suggestion on a particular device that fails ON and causes such a severe drain...
If the battery is in fact not being charged by the alternator how would this be checked ?
When I noticed no flashing lock lights on the car my first action was to disconnect the left (accessory) battery by taking off the negative lead. I then connected the charger which gave the indication of 100% charge but only 6 volts, and wouldn't charge beyond this. I disconnected the charger and connected the battery tester, which confirmed the 6 volt reading and recommended a new battery. I had to move the car as it was blocking other cars; I reconnected the battery and started the car by turning key to the left and back to the right, it started with "please start the engine" and a "level system fault" as expected, I could hear the switching relay in the trunk going on and off as expected, and I moved the car, left it running for a few minutes to move other cars, and parked it. I again removed the negative lead of the left hand battery and reconnected the charger. The "intelligent" charger now read 11.8 volts or so and a 16 % charge level, more reasonable but totally confusing as to why it changed. I disconnected the charger and used the battery tester which also read about 11.8 volts and, good news I guess, rated the battery OK. Right now the charger is reconnected and we'll see if it will bring the battery up to 12 volts and 100% charge...
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Looking out the window at the over 2 feet of snow in the driveway makes me wonder....how low can I drop the ride height?? I have already lowered to ROW specs -10mm and have just recieved a set of 19" Helios wheels from Santa to install in the spring. Do I fudge the controller for another 10mm or install the adjustable link kit from "LOWERMYRIDE"??? What is the sweetspot 20mm,30mm??
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After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
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I'm not sure if this is a problem others have experienced here but for the last few months my rear view mirror angle would drop down and every morning when i got in the car i would need to readjust. I then thought that like every other moving part of the P that needs adapting that maybe the same applies to the mirror so i moved it to it's highest then lowest points, moved the seat all the way back, got out, locked the car, unlocked it, the seat and mirror had returned to the position stored in the memory and for the last month the mirror has not moved so I'm thinking that this has solved the problem.
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I started up my 2004 v8 phaeton with 49k mies for the first time in two weeks and it made an awful squealing sound that seems to be coming from the front of the engine. it also seems to be idling very roughly, this may or may not be related to the noise. it has never made this sound before and i am scared to drive it until i get an idea of what it is. i am afraid it is the timing belt and the i will ruin the whole engine on the way to the dealership.
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Had a few warm days last week and noticed a lack of cooling from the HVAC system. Local temps cooled off a bit but I decided to see what I could find out before I got hot again.
Started playing with the system in the driveway and discovered good cooling capacity on the passenger side but just mildly cool air coming out of the drivers side vents. This seemed to be true on both the front and back. I hooked by laptop up and noticed single digit temps at the evaporator. When I brought the temps down on the climate control the right side exchanger would get down to around 12C but the Left would struggle to get to 22C and if I moved the passenger side requested temp up the drivers side exchanger temp would follow even though the requested temp on the drivers side was low. There was a display for the Left and Right regulating valves but they seemed parked at 0.0 unless I made a cabin temp change.
I am guessing the left regulating valve is the problem but know nothing of how this system works. 2004 Phaeton V8 ....
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I've only started noticing this recently. I have a 2004 W12 with roughly 75k miles. It seems to only happen after the engine warms up, but even then its seemingly randomly. I'll notice a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of the engine. The sound increases in frequency as I rev the engine. I have no check engine lights and no noticeable loss of power. Its not a radiator fan since the sound is still audible when the hood is open. I'm getting no CAN errors with my generic OBDII scanner (I know its not a VAG-COM but hey).
I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".
I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?
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I have 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse with ~105K miles on it. I bought it 3 months ago. It has a strange problem. The RPM starts to drop, whenever I stop at signals or stop signs, or stop for any other reason. It comes back to normal when I turn off the fan. I am not sure what is going on.
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Am a recent owner of an '06 Prius and like the car so far. The only fault is something I have never run into before. The brakes are very sensitive when coming to a stop. I find it almost impossible to feather the pedal and make the stop comfortable.
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I'm not even a Prius owner yet but have test driven 5 used ones in the last few days. The thing that is bugging me is a very subtle thump when coming to a stop. I noticed it on an 06 with 77k mi and also an 08 with 45k. I am more curious about the 08 as it was more noticeable and I drove the car quite a bit trying to figure out the sound, when I would slow down from about 35mph just as the car was at 3mph just before coming to a complete stop(and coming to a normal/gentle stop, not jamming on the brakes), there is a little thump. To me it sounds like possibly one of the electrical motors is stopping it's rotation and causing it, or maybe the braking system. When I abruptly stopped it would not occur. When I would slow from just 15mph to a stop I did not notice it. The 06 with 77k almost seemed like it would make the same sound but do it two or three times while gently braking and much more subtle than the 08.
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