Phaeton :: 2004 V8 Turns Over But Does Not Start - No Compression
Dec 20, 2014
So today I hop in my car to run a few quick errands. 2004 V8 4.2ltr. Turns over but does not start. Sounds odd as well. Call a buddy he comes over and plugs in his laptop, the only codes were maf and fuel rail. He turns it over and says, "sounds like no compression" we pull the left cam cover and sure enough the timing belt is loose. The tensioner appears to have failed. I am going to pull the front end off and replace the belt and tensioner.
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I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
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Picked up a 2001 Passat today, it doesn't run. At first I thought it was a timing belt and I was prepared to fix it, but it's NOT the timing belt.. The belt looks good. The car turns over with no interference, I took the valve cover off and everything looks fine. But, the engine has ZERO compression.. it turns over with ease, and a compression tester doesn't even register. The car has the following codes:
16486 P0102 163
Mass Air Flow Circuit -G70: Low Input [Sporadic]
16395 P0011 035
A Camshaft Position (Bank 1): Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
16712 P0328 163
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 -G61: High [Sporadic]
16717 P0333 035
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Bank 2 -G66: High
17733 P1325 035
Cylinder 1-Knock Control: limit attained
17735 P1327 035
Cylinder 3-Knock Control: limit attained
17734 P1326 035
Cylinder 2-Knock Control: limit attained
16725 P0341 035
Camshaft Position Sensor (A) Circuit Bank 1: Range/Performance
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So, my 2004 FX ran perfect as always when I parked it last night but this morning it just will not start. It turns over like a SOB but won't catch (Installed a new Optima Red Top about a month ago). Tried my OBDII but it's showing as "fail" or "no codes".....I tried testing it several times. I've never had ANY problems with it starting.
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In the process of moving to a new house our Neon SE (2.0L, SOHC) sat for about a week without being driven. When my wife goes to start it (5am Monday morning: FUN), it turns but won't actually start. I throw on the code reader and get a P0508, Idle Air Control valve sense circuit Low. At this point, I've put on a new IAC valve, note: the throttle body looked good and in working order, and spliced on a new OEM wiring harness, but the pos still won't fire up. When tracing the wires, there was no indication of them being frayed or short-circuiting. The next step, following this code P0508, would be to change out the PCM. From my research, if the PCM is truly bad, there's usually one or several codes indicating as much; i.e. I'd be getting a lot more than just a P0508.
Could the P0508 been a red herring? I generally associated a bad starter or starter solenoid with a clicking noise, but would this still be worth checking out? On that same note, could the culprit be a bad ignition coil even without any codes showing for IC-related problems?
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Subaru Impreza 2004 2.5 TS170,000 km
For a couple of months now and every few days, my car turns over nicely but chokes. I can keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal as lightly as possible without letting the engine stop or rev too high, and after about 15 seconds it stays on on its own. When it's running it runs very smoothly...no knocking or shuddering or poor idling at lights.
So there’s obviously a gas delivery problem at startup. I don’t know if I can but I would love to rule out the fuel pump since it's only at startup (fuel filter is new, battery is new, and sensors have been checked, even during a failure to start scenario) and it runs so well when driving. Also, it won’t start randomly, regardless of temperature, cold start or not, incline, etc. I read that a fuse can have intermittent problems but again it seems to me that it should be properly intermittent, not just at startup. Which leaves the relay and wires.
Now thinking about wiring, a few years ago I noticed I could no longer leave my highbeams on. I could hold the lever and make them stay on, but pushing the lever into the on position no longer works. Also, recently and only once, on a -26 C day, the air compressor was dead when I started the car. After stopping and starting for a half an hour I noticed that it had come back on. Does this sound like it could be connected? Where do I even start to diagnose this starting problem?
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Turns over great but nothing. just changed fuel filters all voltages read great. I have ScanGuage and what little I can tell everything reads good. Has been acting funny for a couple weeks taking 4 or 5 cranking attempts to start every now and then no real pattern. Runs great when going even when pulling a load. It has failed to start and I'm in my shop and not sitting on the side of the road.
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If Prius has to constantly spin the ICE when over 42 mph, even when only running on battery power, it must waste a lot of energy overcoming ICE compression all the time. Or is there some kind of system to reduce compression in this situation – just curious....
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I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
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No indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
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I sea Foamed the truck today. I will be pulling my heads most likely and am doing a few things beforehand just in case. History: low compression and misfire on #2. Have changed plugs and swapped out cops. Paper against exhaust pipe sucks in and pops against the pipe intermittently. Seems like intake valve.
Anyways, poured in a whole damn bottle through the brake vacuum line. The engine sputtered a bit but never stalled. I saw almost no smoke after a whole bottle!! I thought with 156000 miles it would smoke like mad. I have taken very good care of this truck and changed oil every 3 to 5 with synthetic 5-20 since new. Could it be that clean???
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For A while my 04 Phaeton would not start on first try, turn off then it starts on second try. Lately its dwindled to 3rd or 4th try. Now dead, no start at all. Is it just the batteries most likely? with the key on, the voltage is down at about 11.5 volts. When it would start it would jump right up to about 13.5.
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Filled the tank the other day. After driving 180 or so miles I got a check engine light and also the ESP "OFF" light. I also was getting some hesitation when starting from a complete stop. Now the car will start and idle for about 10-20 seconds then die. I'll turn it off and it will start again with the same result. Is there a main and secondary fuel pump? I'm guessing possible fuel pump or MAF sensor issues. I'm pulling the MAF sensors in the morning and cleaning them.
Codes are as follows.
P1130 Fuel Trim Bank 2 System too lean
P1128 Fuel Trim Bank 1 " "
P1009 MAF implausible Sig From Load
P1139 Bank 1 System too Rich
I prefer to work on my cares myself and have wrenched for years, Have had Audi for years and the Phaeton was a bucket list item.
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Started having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
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My dad has a 04 f250 5.4 auto. The motor turns over but very slow and will not start. He's put two new starters on. I went and looked at it and figured it was loose cables or corrosion, but it was fairly clean, and tight. We decided to pull the battery out of his van that he drives everyday, and I cleaned everything very good. Same thing. Pulled the belt to make sure nothing was lockup, same thing. Truck was running and starting great, then just did this one morning on him.
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The timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo broke last week. I have it at a mechanic who got a new timing belt on to check the compression of the engine. Bad news: no compression. So far they haven't taken the head off to inspect the inside. This includes timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket removal and replacement, cylinder head check, some misc labor, lube, oil, and filter...
However, another mechanic is suggesting that I replace the engine instead with a used or refurbished engine with less miles. He says that it doesn't make much sense to put new parts on the top end of the engine. The engine itself has about 153k miles on it.
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i have an 04 Phaeton and I've replaced the battery in the keyfob and now my car won't crank. The first message said the battery was empty and now it say system fault workshop with a key symbol.
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I got a 2004 phaeton v8 with a no start. Can unlock doors with key fob but when put key in ignition cluster states immo activ. Everything else on car is dead windows, unable to remove from park. My batteries are both new and charged. I can't even turn on accessory a, like the car isn't reading the key!
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Our beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
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I have a 2005 Corolla with 78,000 miles. The other day it stalled at a stop sign and wouldn't start. I got it towed to the repair shop and they called me the next day with the following:
1. Under the back seat is a fuel compression module. This has gone bad. They need to take out the seat, order the part, install new.
2. The belt that drives the accessories motor (or something like that, don't recall the exact phrasing) is worn, cracking, and probably going to break. Needs replacing. Battery is corroding and needs replacing.
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I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
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