My check engine light came on over the weekend. It was not blinking so I am hoping for just a sensor fault or some other inexpensive issue. I am trying to remain hopeful but after having to replace 2 coils and both catalytic converters about 40K miles ago I am really nervous...
I took the car to the shop this morning for diags but what might be causing the problem? It is a 2004 V8 with about 142K miles.
I recently bought my new (For me) R32, the first owner of the car remove the 2 catalyst from the car and now I have the check engine light on. When my friend put the vagcom on the car it shows an oxygen sensor fault. What can I do to fix this? can I just buy a MagnaFlow exhaust?
View 11 RepliesI recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
View 9 RepliesI just got the Air Bag Fault light and warning on my display for my 2006 Phaeton. I have not seen any posts on this topic doing a keyword search. This happened the day after I got back to my car at the airport parking and found a cracked windshield that is $825 for the glass alone. Not a good week so far.
View 9 RepliesJust reporting following problem that seems to affect most VW TDI engines with DPF - I have just experienced it on my Phaeton - basically as you accelerate you get the engine fault - workshop warning with a flashing coil (glow plug heater lamp) - this is accompanied with reduced performance (no Turbo) in a protect mode, stopping and restarting the engine clears this temporarily. the MIL eventually stays on (performance unaffected until next time the dreaded engine fault appears) - It's a bit scary and if you go to the dealership, they will try to convince you that you need a new sensor and DPF and estimate a cost of 1.5k plus)
I can recommend RD garage services in Shepperton (Richard is an ex VW Phaeton and Touareg Specialist) Richard changed the sensor and performed a forced regen cleared all of the fault codes (the gearbox had even gone into a performance limiting mode due to the faulty exist pressure sensor). All is now well car back to pulling like a train and back to mid 40's mpg on a run.
I was queuing for the Dartford Bridge yesterday, and had been about 20 minutes in crawling traffic, when for the first time ever the DPF indicator came up on the dashboard with a message to check the manual. Then moments later I got the engine fault, workshop alarm which was quite insistent. Reaching the tolls I pulled away and then 'booted' it for a while in sport mode and both indicators disappeared...so I thought I had cleared the problem.
I reached work without incident, but then when I came to restart the car later in the morning, I had the engine fault come up again with a very insistent chime. I phoned my dealer and took it in...the DPF indicator coming up again while in traffic on the way there. The fault has been diagnosed as a faulty diesel particulate sensor, which is now being changed on Monday when the part arrives.
I have owned a Phaeton W12 for around a year and have got to know my local VW dealer extremely well. My latest woe is the hazard warning lights which refuse to operate. The dealer advises it is a fault with the J523 (?) unit.
View 4 RepliesI have just had what I feel like is a big problem. It started raining tonight( I don't know if it's related) and I got back into my car, after putting the baby in the rear passenger seat, and started it up and the "System Fault Workshop" warning came on, with a warning symbol next to my tpms symbol that is shaped like a key, and the "car outline icon" in the center had the rear passenger door light blink open. I hope that made sense.
I tried to restart the car to see if it would go off, and it won't. The infotainment doesn't light up, and the blinkers don't work, and neither would the high beams. So the steering wheel lights/controls are dead. Also my keyless entry doesn't lock/unlock the car. I couldn't find anything in the manual, and the only online I could find that might be related is the following: " the actual issue is/are leaky seals on the front latch solenoids/actuators, period.
I just tried to go start the car again, and the alarm started going off. Then I started the car to try and stop the alarm, and it kept going off...Then I thought the battery might have something to do with it so I opened the trunk with the key since the button in the drivers door wouldn't open it, and the alarm when off when I manually opened the trunk.....What am I going to do now?
The rear seat footwell lights are on, and you can see a youtube video of the warning lights at: [URL] ...
Because the battery gauge in the dash showed the battery being completely dead with no charge, I tried to "jump" the car with another car using jumper cables hooked up to the battery in the trunk on the drivers side. Again the alarm went off when opening the trunk, and when starting the vehicle, and the battery gauge was still completely dead.
Problem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
To make a long story short. I had a "low input temp sensor" fault on the transmission. I replaced the three solenoids and temp sensor in the bottom of the transmission and added new fluid. I'm still getting the "trans error" code. Everything is working/shifting like it should, just tired of the beeping and code on the dash.
View 3 RepliesMy V6 3.0 TDI 2007 car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hiccup in accelerator response from standstill. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recently maintained by VW dealer.
View 11 RepliesWhat the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
At the end of my first week of ownership, I encountered problems with the rear cabin light in my car not working properly - sometimes it came on when the doors were opened, and sometimes it did not. I mentioned it to the Phaeton technician at my dealership, and we agreed to just defer investigation and rectification until the car was due to come in for its first oil change.
After I finished putting the start button in, I ran a diagnostic scan on the car, and the problem with the rear cabin dome light was the only remaining fault code. So - I kind of figured "gee, this can't be rocket science to fix", and I removed the rear cabin light assembly from the roof of the car.
I had a close look at it, and found the cause of the problem pretty quickly. When the assembly was put together, the tiny black wire that carries power to the rear cabin interior light button became trapped between the large bus bar that serves as a ground for all the switches and some foam insulation that protects the circuit board from the ground bus bar. The entire assembly would have tested out just fine when it was manufactured, but over time, the vibration encountered in transporting the car from Germany to Canada, and the vibration caused when I drove the car around during my first week of ownership caused the bus bar to cut through the insulation on the wire - hence the short circuit. All I had to do to fix it was just poke the wire out from under the bus bar. Everything works great now.
The fault code that was generated - "Rear Interior Lamp Button - Short to Earth" was absolutely dead-on, and took me directly to the problem. I really doubt if I ever would have found this problem if the car did not have such a competent self-diagnostic system.
We have an 04 v8 phaeton. Hubby just changed timing belt with the blauparts top kit. He rented their tools. When he went to attach the bar it didnt line up. He finally got it all back together and it runs fine. The vag com scares me, though.
Those codes say...
- 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil
on and the other
- 16395 Bank 1 p0011-002 retard setpoint not reached over advanced mil on.
He just ran the scan today and we are leaving on a 1500 mile trip tomorrow. He says he knows it lined up right...im doubting it. We have driven it about 500 miles since he changed it...no problem. I don't want to risk damaging something. Would you take it on a trip with that code?
I was plowing and when I put it in reverse it felt like it slipped, but then the dash message trans malfunction came up. I checked the codes and I got P0722 output shaft speed sensor.
Code P0720 (oss) sensor circuit fault
Then the truck went into safe mods. Is it just the sensor or is my reverse going out...
The warning in the title has been appearing for months. Push reset and the display message goes away but the orange light stays on. No rhyme or reason. Sometimes it's gone after a restart for a day or two. Sometimes it stays on no matter how many times the truck is shut down and restarted in a day.
So I finally took it into Ford for service today because the truck is still under warranty. They ask if the tires have been replaced. Obviously they have because I've got BFG KO2s that are a size or two bigger than stock. But I explained that the tires have been on for several months and that the issued did not present itself when the truck came out of the tire shop. It didn't happen until a couple of months later.
So they tell me that their tool can't even detect that any sensors are present and that they'll break down a tire to check and see that a sensor is there. Two & a half hours later they tell me that they've ordered a body control module and cut me loose with the truck. They'll call when the part is here.
What can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
I have an 04 gx with a check engine light on I had the code read at auto zone. That tells me o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1. I have already changed the sensor they said it was and still have the code. What is the correct location of this sensor?
View 2 RepliesAre these easily accessible? I have to replace both sensors in my 04 4.2 and was curious if they are easy to replace. I could not find and detailed info. Also any tips when replacing these and purchasing 2 sensors?
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with the TPMS of my '04 Phaeton.
Sensors have already been exchanged, still the car seems to have a problem with the tires of one axis. It displays a number in the middle reflecting the tire's pressure, but there is no "OK" or caution label in the boxes right and left to the car symbol.
This problem can also not be solved by (proper) calibration.