Cracked rear window from bottom center (on the driver's side just past the Dole light). Dealer says that they would have to sub out the install. That worries me a little, given antennae & other items hooked up on/near rear window.
View 4 RepliesDriving over the weekend, I randomly noticed that there was a large crack 3/4 of the way across the rear driver's side window. What caused it (there appears to be an impact mark on the outside and I guess it just spread from there). This morning, the crack was completely across the window.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2014 Prius and I just noticed that the window on the driver's side is broken/cracked on the edge. I noticed this last night but my wife drives it mostly so I'm not sure how long it's been like that because my wife never noticed it.
View 3 RepliesThe driver side track on the bottom of the window has rusted out on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup. Every place I've talked to that is supposed to handle glass repairs either doesn't fix this kind of thing or just plain doesn't want to attempt to fix it. The only advice one place would offer is to buy a new window with a good track on it, but how to get the old one out without breaking it or putting a new one in. I know they sell just the track for these windows, but I don't know how to remove the old one without breaking the glass.
View 24 RepliesAwhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
I just did timing belt and driver rear window wont go up. light flashing at switch. Rest all others nogo on this one. Disconnect battery and try again ?
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 2005 Prius a couple days ago and have spent the weekend discovering "hidden" little issues. One was that after a heavy night a rain there was a small pool of water in the very back of the car underneath the cargo area near the wire that runs from the traction battery. In fact the little prongs holding a slim white (electronic) box connecting to the battery were rusted out.
View 3 RepliesI have been getting a sound like a loud cpu fan on the driver's side of the console wall, just below the ignition port. Any other NAR cars have this problem? It will go away after awhile but will turn back on again.
View 9 RepliesWhat is involved in fixing TCM system and ECM (I could not start my '04 Phaeton, had it towed twice, only to find I needed a switch, frame, and a mechanism [shifter]).
Now I notice the center vent door that goes over the clock has two cracks in it and I also noticed some other scratches on the so-called wood area on the console. What is a TCM, and an ECM, and what would have to be removed to replace brake switch, PRNDL sensor, and shifter mechanism? Before work was done, service writer said the steering column and the center console would have to be removed. I know when I go back to the dealer Monday (2.8.10) there will probably be denial, so I would just like to know in advance what had to be removed.
My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
I was putting my rear driver window up yesterday, and I hear a crunching noise.....it struggled, but I was able to get it back up. What should I do? I'm thinking it's the regulator, or a clip came off of the window, etc.
View 11 RepliesI had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
View 4 RepliesHad window on drivers side all the way down. Went to push button to raise. Window gets gets half way up and I hear a loud snap! I continue to push button and raised window all the way up. Now I hear wind and whistle sound. Does not seem to be as tight? Afraid to lower window as it may not raise again... Does this sound like the typical window regulator failure? My warranty coverage "excludes " window regulators, go figure. Their brochure says window motors and regulators covered. The actual signed contract excludes regulators? 2004 V8......
View 6 RepliesJust got my 2012 Prius from the body shop. Got hit in the rear where the starting battery is.
Had window control problems since battery was replaced.
Problem is that the driver-side rear window can't be controlled by the driver. It works fine with its own control but not from up front. The light on that windows button is not lit like the others. When pressed it lights and when released it blinks a few times and goes out. I unhooked the starting batter to try and reset things with no luck.
It seems that someone hit my drivers side mirror on my 2004 gx and cracked the shell. The mirror works fine its just the outer plastic part is cracked. My question is i see on ebay some for sale but im not sure if they are glued together or clipped in. How to take off the cover and if so is it easy or not.
View 3 RepliesI'm slowly going through my (new to me) GX470 that I bought about a month ago. I live in the big mountains and many people would say that the road I live on is a 4x4 trail, although I'm often on real 4x4 trails. On an outing today I noticed that with the air bags raised there is a loud banging sound when I go over any significant bumps. I would tick the switch to lower the air bags while going over bumps and the sound would instantly stop.
Based on that info, I presumed that I had a problem with the height sensors, causing them to max out the suspension travel. So I looked underneath and sure enough I have a cracked bracket on the driver's side sensor. So basically the cracked bracket bends as the suspension is going up until the suspension travel is maxed out.
Noticed that my drivers side back up plastic cover is cracked with a small hole in the top. Would like to RTV the damaged area to seal it but I need to remove it to make the repair. I've pulled some of the inner plastic on the door but can't get at the back up plastic cover.
View 1 RepliesI'm pressing the button up on the drivers console and on the rear door but it won't go up. It went down no problem but it won't come back up. Checked all fuses and they're fine.
View 4 RepliesJust dropped the car off at the dealership with the driver's side rear window stuck down. My local dealer here was pretty good, had the car inside (is expected to rain today) and put me in a rental.
In addition, they are going to investigate my touchscreen, as I've been having some red/white flickering issues when it is?
My rear windows, driver's side mostly was stuck...on and off, mostly off...since I bought Kitacamry 2 years ago, and discovered this...(for search engine users the title identifies potential sources for the problem)...
The windows were so snug that they stuck to the rubber if not used much, and here in south Florida they're hardly used, and often would not roll down...sometimes they would but not always...dealers thought it was the motor, or the regulator or the switch...and who could blame them?
I've discovered that it's not the regulator, and that the motor was just not strong enough to "break the seal" of the rubber.
I recently had a regulator repaired (a screw was loose) and noticed that the shop sprayed the rubber with silicone and that made the window glide much more smoothly...soooo....
I sprayed the other windows' rubber seals...and WOW....all open and glide down and up smooth as silk...If your windows are stuck....give silicone spray a shot...
The rear most drivers side window, behind the spare, is not working. It has been intermittent since new but always worked at the dealer. Now its out of warranty.
View 14 Replies