Phaeton :: 2004 - Jumps While Driving
Nov 18, 2011
After I have used my Phaeton for a few miles it seems like the transmission is jumping - like when the older cars were low on transmission fluid. I thought the Phaeton had a closed transmission system and fluid can not be added. I have 124,000 miles on the car.
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For A while my 04 Phaeton would not start on first try, turn off then it starts on second try. Lately its dwindled to 3rd or 4th try. Now dead, no start at all. Is it just the batteries most likely? with the key on, the voltage is down at about 11.5 volts. When it would start it would jump right up to about 13.5.
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Oh and also the OD light would come on also. I just need my truck.
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Car now unexpectedly jumps to high fan speed when first started. Doenst matter what the temp is set to or if it was previsouly on Auto or Manual when last shut off. Did I change some custom setting? or has a gremlin appeared after so many years and care free miles? (05, 78K)
Its not a big deal but rather is annoying to get in and hear that immediate rush before I can turn the dial down.
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Not sure if this is called "sputtering" or something else. But essentially today all of the sudden my car would sort of jump ahead, as if I when revving it back and fourth on the pedal aggressively. Not sure what could have caused this. Today was an essentially cold day so that may have something to do with it. Also my car overheats so I have to put anti-freeze in it most days. For the last few days I've been just using plain water, could this be the culprit? Why is my car jerking around like this?
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Screen go black, radio shut off, then reset itself while driving over and over again. Have the car parked and radio stays on after you pull the key and set the alarm. And the final piece, the alarm goes off three times no lights flashing then stops sitting in a garage, not outside. Is this a short ? I have two brand new batteries, new starter new altenator.
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Background: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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It has been so effective to add diesel injector cleaner to my 2004 Honda (all of 62,000 miles on it), that it is scaring me. Am I damaging anything? I add about an ounce/gallon every once in a while. Mileage drops back in between.
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I bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.
When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.
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This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
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Have a system lean code popping up. long term fuel trim at idle is 14. No misfire counts. adjusted fuel trim from full rich to lean still no misfire counts. When on test drive and found after accelerating on the freeway soon as i take my foot off the gas pedal long term fuel trim jumps to 29 and multiple cylinder misfires start to occur. I take car off freeway and at stop light can feel misfire and fuel trim still at 29. coast it into the shop and at idle LTFT down to 10-14. Sprayed brake clean all over intake manifold but wasn't able to register any change in fuel trim. Fuel pressure is within spec. Cleaned MAF and Replaced with known good. LTFT still high
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2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
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My 04 v8 decided to stall and cut off while driving today. Doesn't appear to be an electrical issue, and no dash light lights up.
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My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
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I have an annoying vibration regardless whether I am driving or in idle. Slight difference if in Drive or N mode.
Dealer balanced tires(!) and said all is OK... Which area to look at?
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Today I had been driving about ten minutes when I got a "Check Gas Cap" warning, inclusive of beep and appropriate icon. Pulled over, switched off but left key in (this is equivalent to a warm boot in my experience), opened gas cap and closed again (it was fine). Turned engine on, got same message, remained on until destination (approximately 20 minute drive). Parked and locked car for approximately 2 hours (equivalent to a cold boot). When I turned on the engine again, the message was gone, and remained off for the rest of the day.
The car had been sitting unused in a heated garage for a little over two weeks, and the weather today was nice, sunny, a few degrees above freezing.
In my view, it clearly was not related to the classic "fuel cap not tight enough" problem of modern cars: for one, I had not just refueled (in fact, I have a little over half a tank). Also, I always tighten the cap until I hear at least a few clicks. SO I wonder if it might be an early warning that my maintenance battery is getting weak, i.e. spurious error message triggered by low voltage?
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I have recently purchased a 2006 V6 diesel with only 20,000 miles! Best car I ever had! I am driving it in France in August and want to know how to adjust the headlights (the bi-xeon), as nothing in manual. I am assuming there are some levers, screws to adjust behind lights?
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I was out late last night driving the car on a local freeway, and my friend wanted a better look around the interior of the car. So, I turned on the two front interior dome lights, the round ones next to the sunroof controls? Anyway, we both noticed right away that they were pulsing in intensity. It was very slow, may from high to low once a second or so...just like in a sci-fi show when you have a living machine?
Anyway, is that a sign of the alternator going? I've never seen this behvior in the car before. It went away at idle. The car was travelling 100km/hr in 6th gear. Headlights were on low beam, as were dash lights. No other electrics on. Just not sure if it is normal or if I should be concerned.
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A few days ago I got an Airbag Fault Warning while driving, since then the orange airbag light has remained on and at start up it gives me a "Airbag Fault" warning. Any remedies? The manual states to just take it in to the dealer.
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So, I just hopped in my car ready to go to work, and my "exhaust" light came on. I drove it a block, and it seems very "jittery". I decided not to risk driving it, and am getting a lift with my wife.
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On Friday the engine in my V8 stalled while driving at approx 40 mph. I shut it off and restarted, and it idled very rough and stalled again. I had it towed home. Tried starting it at home. started and idled fine. Just went out this AM, started it and drove it around the neighborhood, ran fine. The check engine light never came on at any time. I had noticed one of the variable intake linkage arms as being busted and thought that was the cause. I now understand that that is most likely not related.
So, where does this leave me? As I was listing too it running, I noticed a faint humming coming from this thing on top of the motor. Underneath the VW logo cover is a round black plastic piece with a large hose attached to the side, and a hose coming out the bottom. If I tilt this slightly, the humming stops. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the stalling, but I'm fishing.
Why the car stalled, and/or if this crankcase ventilation/emissions device should be humming.
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