I just bought a 2004 Phaeton V8. So far, it's great.
But I'm having trouble with programming the Homelink garage door opener. The instructions in the manual are the same as other cars I've owned - hold down buttons 1 & 3 until the light blinks, then press the button you want to program while also using the remote you want the car to learn. But when I press 1 & 3, no light begins blinking - I can't even find the light on the panel!
Programming the homelink feature? Apparently VW has issued an amendment to the manual for VINs greater than 11XXX. Unfortunately, mine is in the 5XXX range.
View 2 RepliesWould someone take a picture of your setup if your vehicle came from the factory with the auto dimming and home link. I am wanting to add the auto dim and home link to our car, but I am wanting it to look factory. I am just wondering what the difference in looks are?. I believe there is a factory black piece that fits over the wires.
View 5 RepliesPicked up my new T-Reg yesterday. V8, PPS, Winter, Park Assist, Rear Lock. White w/teak. Newer vehicle, VIN# 51XXX. You'll see the Conti's are gone now in favor of Pirelli Scorpion's. So far so good on the problems. I've discovered that HomeLink buttons 1 and 2 stick and won't come out after pressing and the carpeted cover beneath the driver's seat won't stay snapped shut - you can see a little crack.
View 19 RepliesI am one of the few that has ADC on my 2004 V10.
Occasionally, 3 times now. I press the ON button and the cruise control does not initialize properly. After a while it will say "Temporarily unavailable" . The problem is that then there is no power any more.
I stop on the hard shoulder of the motorway, engine off, engine on and all is reset, ADC works ok and full power is restored.
According to the navigation manual (attached), the navigation screen should go to the home screen within 5 seconds. But my IS never goes to the home screen without pressing the home button, but it always shows the full screen map. I tried many different things including "Auto Screen Change" setting but nothing seems to work.
2015 IS250 AWD
Nebula Gray/Stratus Gray
I just took delivery of my 2004 325i and forgot to ask the dealership to program the key so the car would make a sound and would flash turn signals when I arm/disarm the alarm.
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a 2007 w/ Nav and evidently the last owner only had one key/key fob so I ordered another from the Toyota Dealership. I took the car today to have it programmed and to make a long story short, they were not able to program the key.
View 9 RepliesWe have a IGN 50 amp Fusible link that keeps popping out!! If I pull it out and put it back in the car will start for about 5 seconds till the fusible link let's go then it dies!! Pull it back out and replace it, it will restart for 5 seconds again!! I unplugged about everything under the hood and still pops the fuse!! Replaced the CPU and does the same thing!! Can't hear the file pump running so I unplugged it and if you unplug the IGN 50 link, then replace I only get 4.7 volts to the pump but the link still let's go after about 5 seconds!!
View 28 RepliesI've been reading up on SHM. It sounds like I need to be able to see IGN to make the most of this technique. I have the Engine Link app (can't afford SCII) loaded with the Gen 2 presets that came with the app. I can't seem to find anything to indicate that I have an option for IGN for my display screen.
View 6 RepliesAbout 4 months I accidentally reversed the polarity when jumping my car and fried my 12V battery and blew the fusible link. I replaced it with an Optima yellow top but due to other issues I haven't driven the car since about that time.
Last week I got most of the other issues resolved and tried starting the car, nothing. It was reading less than a volt on the voltmeter. I used my portable jump starter and got the car started. I only drove it to the gas station (1 mile round trip) to fill my tires and back. I went to start it the next day and nothing again. I thought maybe I didn't charge the battery enough since I hadn't been driving it.
I charged it overnight using a wall charger and again the next day it wouldn't start. Yesterday I jumped it again and drove it about 20 minutes, about half at low speeds (<30 MPH) and half at higher speeds. I got home put the car in park, but still on, and checked the voltage again, about 13.8 V. Turned the car off and checked again and I could see the voltage dropping like a rock. Within about 30 seconds it was down to 6V and within another 30 seconds it was so low that I didn't have any interior lights or dash lights.
It seems to me like the battery is bad. However after I "fried" the original battery I had similar issues. In fact the reason I had to jump it in the first place is because the battery died a few times in the same day. Could something be killing the battery?
I just purchased a 2004 rx330. I purchased a set of keys off amazon and tried to program them using Techstream. It will not allow me what so ever to program. it always gets to programming the key step and then says error between key and ecu. I have programmed tons of toyota keys using techstream and never had any issue with aftermarket keys so I bought another set from another vendor and they will not program either. I was able to manually program the remote for keyless entry so they will communicate with the car and are the right FCC ID number. I used to be a service advisor at Toyota so I do know more than the average person when it comes to these.
Also the power window master switch will not roll down the drivers side rear window or do auto for the drivers window. I have tried every combination to reset (we used to do them on the driver sometimes) and it still wont work. Drivers and drivers rear window buttons are flashing.
I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
Ac issue. The climatronic system is blowing hot air, when I turn the temp down to low it gets hotter and when I turn it up it blows a little cooler (not much the air is still very hot). The issue is also the same when I am using the Econ function.
Is there a quick fix for this? Or could it be caused by many different things? Also is there a fuse I can pull that'll turn the system off to prevent it from blowing hot air the whole way home? It's 99 degrees in SC.
My navigation system on '05 Avalon XLS is frozen in the home screen. I'm curious how I'm going to be able to change the clock and stuff like that if I can't get it to work again.
View 1 RepliesAny setting that would cause it. Light switch in auto position. Parked Tig at night. Coming home lights were on. When I came out an hour later they were still on. Tried a number of things to turn them off but no luck. Next day in daylight, after I boosted my battery, the coming home lights were off. This was on a 2009 Tig that I was test driving and am thinking of purchasing. It is currently back at the car dealer to be checked out, along with a few other issues that need to be addressed. Hoping it is not a sign of bigger problems.
View 3 RepliesCan you customize the Navigation Home Screen? Is it possible to do it on the 2015 Lexus LS 460 ?
I find it strange that my navigation home screen has the dealership name and logo on starting up the car so I figure that it could be set or change.
Is there a video or guide on how to do it? I want to put my family picture as the start up home screen.
I have a 2011 Prius with DVD Navigation, and now a 2012 Prius V. I cannot believe there is no "Go Home" command for voice navigation on the new system. This makes no sense whatsoever.
Does this system can be updated either on the fly or at the dealer in the future? The voice recognition is not nearly as good as on the 2011 system.
Today the roads were slushy. On my drive to work a strange parking brake fault happened twice. Each time I was driving at highway speeds, not engaging the parking brake. In each case, the parking brake fault light came on, and the car seemed to go into some kind of "limp home" mode: the car would not accelerate or upshift, although it appeared to be willing to maintain around 40mph or very mildly accelerate from 0-20 mph if I stopped all the way. This was not because the parking brake engaged itself and was slowing the car - the car still coasted freely. It was clearly because the computer was limiting the car's power/speed severely. In the first case, I think it came on when I was beginning to apply the regular brakes to slow down gradually for a light; and in the second I was not using the brakes at all but did hit a puddle of slush. In both cases, it's possible the traction control kicked in, although I did not see that indicator light flash. The ABS did not get used based on sound and pedal feel in the first place, and because I wasn't engaging the brakes at all in the second case.
In each case, I was able to pull off the road, shut off the engine/car entirely, and then restart the car to clear the fault and turn off the light. The car drove totally normally from there, as if nothing had ever been wrong. There was around two hours including 90 minutes of being parked in my garage between the two events. I've never had any parking brake malfunction of any kind before with this car. So now I'm wondering when this will happen again. This does not appear to be the common problem of the parking brake button, since it never involved actually applying or releasing the parking brake and never involved me touching the button. I don't like having to quickly go from the left lane of a freeway all the way to the right lane or shoulder when my car suddenly decides to slow down for no obvious reason.
Used the Nav for the first time this morning and it worked great - only problem was after about 1 minute it would automatically revert to the HOME screen on its own.
Only way to get back to Nav was APPS then NAV - but then only stays for a minute then back to the HOME screen.
For over 2 years, but much more frequently and lenghtier recently, my 2000 Chevy Prizm, with a used 07 Corolla engine with 75,000 mile on it now, has seemed like it wants to die but then will eventually kick in and you would never know anything had happened. Started out as a maybe 50 yard slowing down but is now up to about a quarter mile with some occasional noise like misfiring on the last two times it acted up. Have had it in to a couple of mechanics and no one can seem to determine what it is. Had a mass air flow sensor put in about a year ago and was told if that doesn't fix it I would need a catalytic converter (shows up in engine codes) but second mechanic told me my problems would not be the result of a bad catalytic converter. If that was it, the car would die not keep on going.
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