Phaeton :: 2004 - Can't Get The Boot To Operate Electrically
Jan 20, 2013
I am a new Phaeton owner, 2004 v10 with the electric boot. I recently had the batteries run flat after leaving a charger in the 12v socket not realising it remained powered. After trickle charging the batteries for 3 days I cant get the boot to operate electrically.
I have scanned with VAG-COM and don't have any errors on the convenience module. The switch on the boot is not illuminated. If I press and hold the boot button on the keyfob the hazards flash but nothing happens. I have followed the reset procedure with no difference. Interestingly on the dash the car does not show the boot as open when it is up. It appears to be receiving no power but I can probe and have tried to reset the parameters of location 22 and 23 on the convenience controller and wouldn't expect access if there was no power. The boot mechanism was working perfectly before the battery ran flat.
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My Phaeton Gas cap wont open electrically. I can manually open it from inside the trunk.
Does the boot lid/trunk controller also regulate the gas cap? Or is the gas cap solenoid hard wired to the door switch?
My trunk controller is out as well (usual broken wires in the loom) but I wasn't sure if this would take out the gas cap too.
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Ok , how do you operate ' soft close doors" ??
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I have owned a Phaeton W12 for around a year and have got to know my local VW dealer extremely well. My latest woe is the hazard warning lights which refuse to operate. The dealer advises it is a fault with the J523 (?) unit.
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For a couple of weeks now, my boot keeps re-opening when I close it while the car is locked.
My usual workaround is to unlock the car, close the boot and only then, lock the car. However, yesterday evening, this did not work, i.e. I closed the boot then locked the car, but as the car locked, the boot decided to open on its own...
Tried it several times, and ended up leaving the car open (we were invited for dinner at friends of ours, so leaving the car unlocked was not problematic) as I preferred this to leaving the boot open...
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Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
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Just noticed something strange. Haven't opened the boot for a few days and We have had some really heavy rain but today, when I did open the boot water, poured out between the carpet on the inside of the boot and the metal. Has water in the actual boot or is there some drain holes I need to check.
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Just picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
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Twice this past fortnight I've come down in the morning to find my boot open while the car is on the drive, and as I normally store around 600 worth of golf kit in there this obviously isn't ideal !
Either someone else's transmissions are opening it or, more likely, I'm accidently pushing the button as I fumble around trying to get two small kids and associated baggage through the front door.
Is there any way of disabling the key fob boot release without disabling the switch function of the VW sign on the boot ? I'm considering opening up the remote and removing the switch unless can think of a better solution ?
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During swap over of winter to summer tires I noticed some holes in the drivers side (left) rear suspension boot (cover). I assume that it is the result of rubbing against the body during suspension compression.
Considering either outright replacement of the boot or a band aid (patch) solution, along with some relieving of the suspected contact area on the body.
Suspension is functioning well otherwise. Car has 170K kilometres.
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My Phaeton is approaching its 10th day at VW for a number of issues. Only the week before it was serviced and I was told everything was fine. At the service I asked them to look at the power boot and was told it was reset and working....
I took the car back as there was still a noise from the rear side under the car, sometimes when park was engaged the car did not sense it unless you fiddled with the lever whilst in park, the clock was slow and finally the boot would not open properly.
Specifically the boot issue was, When using either the button on the remote or the drivers boot release the boot tried to open around an inch and then immediately shut again. The only way to open it was to press open and then gently force it open. After fiddling for a while I realised that pressing the unlock then pressing the VW logo twice opened it sometimes! But not always.
Anyway VW cannot work out the problem and apparently their technical support has advised them to change the struts! I cant see how this is the issue .
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Phaeton w12 ... I put new inner and outter tie rods on and new dust boots (the accordion style ones).
I am getting popping noises when I turn from the boot. It's been going on for a couple months now. I tried swapping left to right, greasing them etc nothing works ...
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I'd noticed an oil leak drivers side and upon investigation it appears the rack has developed a leak. I lifted the car on the vehicle lift and when I did noticed oil pouring out of the boot surrounding the steering linkage coming from the steering rack. With the tires dropped the full amount this created a tilt of said boot allowing the oil that had filled the boot to drain out. My conclusion is the rack has developed a leak with the boot being full of oil.
I did a "steering rack" search but nothing of value appeared.
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I opened the boot via the door panel button. Loaded suitcases in and pressed button down on the boot lid.
The two hooks ( plastic and metal one ) directly came out and the boot lid did not move at all.
Tried a reset the whole procedure found on this excellent forum. but no result. I also tried to put my key in the boot lock and it doesnt want to lock or unlock.
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I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
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Sun roof in not closing. Fuse?. Is there a way to close it?
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OK so I know that my rear suspension no longer operates the way it should...with 230K miles and owned since 03....time has taken its toll. So I was wondering if any parts list to repair the rear air suspension so that I can take it directly to my toyota dealer to install. I can tell that the air suspension is trashed simply because I would normally hear the car lower when I parked in the garage etc...now it doesn't do anything.
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I can fully operate driver's side window with the master control located in the driver's side door. When I push the button to lower the passenger's windows or any of the rear windows nothing happens. The front passenger and rear passenger can fully operate the windows with the switch located in each door. Is there a setting that is preventing me from controlling the other 3 windows?.
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My trunk doesn't seem to open electrically any more - that is, the button on the driver's side nor the button on the key fob will open the trunk. All I hear when I attempt either of these methods is a click near the fuse box. I do not hear the actuator at all. It worked intermittently for a few months, but now it seems to be completely dead. My google searches led me down two paths - either the actuator itself is broken or the wiring going from the latch to the actuator is messed up.
I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.
I even re-soldered the wires where it tends to kink on the drivers side in the trunk (It looks like they have been previously DIYed so I thought something may have come loose there), but that doesn't seem to have worked. As far as I can tell, the wires seem to be working fine by testing through the multimeter, and the actuator seems to be fine by testing from an alternate supply.
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2009 Prius 36,000. Driven at least 30 miles per day. Two months ago, 12 volt battery wouldn’t boot up car. Crazy messages on MFD like “Park on level surface and apply parking brake.” Jump started and drove car to the dealer. No problems found. Three weeks later, same problem. Again, no problems found but dealer replaced the battery. About three weeks later same problem except this time got the friendly Triangle illuminated. Drove to dealer and left car. I have an extended warranty so Im not too worried about any costs. The next morning the triangle was NOT lit and the only error code was low voltage. No interior lights on and current draw is normal when car is parked.
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I'm trying to swap out the shift boot of my 2004 (B5.5) Passat 1.8T 4Motion and running into trouble. According to the instructions from the new Red Line shift boot, I should be able to separate the two collars that hold the boot to the knob. However, the white post that's part of the knob assembly has a piece that's bigger than the lower black collar, preventing it from being removed. Is there something I'm missing? How can I remove the boot without damaging the existing knob assembly?
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