Phaeton :: 2004 - CEL / ESP Lights Came On - At Start Up Idles Then Die
Nov 30, 2014
Filled the tank the other day. After driving 180 or so miles I got a check engine light and also the ESP "OFF" light. I also was getting some hesitation when starting from a complete stop. Now the car will start and idle for about 10-20 seconds then die. I'll turn it off and it will start again with the same result. Is there a main and secondary fuel pump? I'm guessing possible fuel pump or MAF sensor issues. I'm pulling the MAF sensors in the morning and cleaning them.
Codes are as follows.
P1130 Fuel Trim Bank 2 System too lean
P1128 Fuel Trim Bank 1 " "
P1009 MAF implausible Sig From Load
P1139 Bank 1 System too Rich
I prefer to work on my cares myself and have wrenched for years, Have had Audi for years and the Phaeton was a bucket list item.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
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One of my issues is a "level fault workshop" message and abs/ esp lights that only appear once I put the car in gear and start moving.
The car does seem to raise and lower normally and there doesn't seem to lose height over night.
To check if it's a particular wheel height sensor, what controller should I scan in vcds? Nothing related to suspension came up in my full auto scan.
I did have an intermittent brake light switch code, could that generate the level fault?.
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My 04 UK Phaeton V10 has developed the following problem. 1 rear parking distance sensor is faulty (awaiting new part) but all was well even so until 3 days ago. Fault is as follows:
In reverse gear, displays 2 red lights in each corner, no sound, at any distance from an object. Place in drive, I get 2 green lights in both front displays which go away as normal.
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Purchased a 2004 w12 several months ago , awesome cruiser.
The only fault it now has is the interior lights no longer come on when opening the drivers door and before putting the key in the ignition . I changed the comfort battery last month the old one being completely dead.
The dome interior lights will come on if the key IS in the ignition with door OPEN and go off when door is closed , the reading lights come on if you press the roof buttons but again only if ignition key in lock.
This is inconvenient as you cant find the ignition lock easily in the pitch dark. I searched the forum and one post was useful for resetting the interior light sequence ,but it didnt work when I tried it.
The procedure may have missed something out,as forum members know that the smallest step missed causes a problem.
Looking for the correct procedure to follow for the re sequencing of the interior lights. Trunk/boot light works as do puddle lights when door opened without key in ignition.
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Feb. 2, 2010, I had my '04 Phaeton in for service (88,997 mi) because it would not start. After diagnosis, found faulty brake switch and shifter mechanism. Removed and replaced brake switch, shifter assy, and PRNDL sensor. On Feb. 17, '10, after I started car, it sounded like it was in wrong gear and all drives were lit on dash. Turned off, started again and everything was OK. Called service tech to let him know; he said he would notify mechanic.
On Fri., 19 Mar. '10 at around 2:15 p.m., was driving and noticed again that all drive lights were lit on dash. Pulled off road, turned off motor, started again, and everything seemed OK. Went farther down road, entered super highway, pressed accel. to pass tractor-trailer, only to notice all gears were again lit, as well as a new engine outline (in orange). As I was passing the truck, car surged forward and then made a loud clunk, I drove at 60 on the 70 mph rd. to get to rest area. Turned off motor, looked in manual and it stated car should be taken to dealer. Since it was still "drivable" and I didn't need a tow, I tried calling the dealer 4 times, but only got through to an answering machine. I decided to take car to dealer.
When I arrived, I spoke to the only service writer at the desk, and he was new. Told me they were too busy to take my car that day. I asked to speak to VW service manager, and he said I should not drive car. Car now has 91,509 mi.
I was wondering, why all gear lights keep coming on at the same time, and why the car feels like it has to shift to the next gear. I am thinking the repairs on Feb.2 were not complete.
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2004 with 214000 miles. Brake pedal goes to the floor, red dash lights are flashing, I just added a container of brake fluid and still no pressure at the pedal. I'm guessing master cylinder.
My question is: Even though my brake pedal goes directly to the floor, how am I getting the car to stop at the very end of the push? Do the brakes somehow work as a fail-safe even the the hydrolics are basically toast? I know that's a long shot, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been shocked over systems in this car.
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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For A while my 04 Phaeton would not start on first try, turn off then it starts on second try. Lately its dwindled to 3rd or 4th try. Now dead, no start at all. Is it just the batteries most likely? with the key on, the voltage is down at about 11.5 volts. When it would start it would jump right up to about 13.5.
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So today I hop in my car to run a few quick errands. 2004 V8 4.2ltr. Turns over but does not start. Sounds odd as well. Call a buddy he comes over and plugs in his laptop, the only codes were maf and fuel rail. He turns it over and says, "sounds like no compression" we pull the left cam cover and sure enough the timing belt is loose. The tensioner appears to have failed. I am going to pull the front end off and replace the belt and tensioner.
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i have an 04 Phaeton and I've replaced the battery in the keyfob and now my car won't crank. The first message said the battery was empty and now it say system fault workshop with a key symbol.
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I got a 2004 phaeton v8 with a no start. Can unlock doors with key fob but when put key in ignition cluster states immo activ. Everything else on car is dead windows, unable to remove from park. My batteries are both new and charged. I can't even turn on accessory a, like the car isn't reading the key!
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Having an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
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I have a 1991 S10 with a 4.3L V6 TBI that recently began having trouble cold starting, meaning that at a mere 40F I can crank it over and over and it will not catch. If I plug the block heater in for at least an hour, it usually will start, but at a very low, very rough idle. Once it has about 30 seconds or so to warm up, it will then idle TOO FAST at 1500 rpm, and stay that way for the first few miles of driving, which makes it rather awkward to drive, being a 5-speed. Once its been driven awhile and fully warmed up, it runs normally. (I'm running a 180F t-stat.)
The IAC valve, block temp sensor, and TPS sensor, were all replaced last year, so I'd find it hard to believe that one of those could be the problem. I put Heet treatment (red bottle) in the fuel, changed fuel filter and reset the computer. (Although it's never given a trouble code.) The problem is still there.
My local mechanic says replace the ECM, but he hasn't actually diagnosed that as the problem, so I think he may just be taking a wild guess. (He hates OBD1 systems with a passion!).
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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I have a 99 Jeep Cherokee Limited, 4.0 inline 6 cyl. When you first start it up it idles fine but after a few min. it starts to act like it is starving for fuel. If you take off down the road it pops back through the intake (backfires). After a few mins it takes off and runs just fine and gives no more trouble until you shut it off and it sits for awhile. Then at the next restart it does it again. It acts like a fuel problem but the way it backfires through the intake makes me think it is a firing problem.
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Lately I have noticed when I start my car in the morning it idles around 800 for about 30 seconds then levels out. No smoke or anything from exhaust. Then after driving for a bit and coming to a stop it does te same thing. It's very intermittent but have noticed it seems to be getting worse. Timing belt n water pump was done about 5 k ago. All new coils done under recall. With new plugs. Air filter was done n oil changed every 3k.. It's a 1.8t aww by the way with 97k on it.
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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My 2012 idles after start up on a warm day at 1200rpm which seems high to me. Should it be lower?
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