Phaeton :: 2004 - Burning Oil At Alarming Rate
Sep 22, 2009
My 2004 V8 phaeton has been burning oil at what seems like an alarming rate. between services it uses 5-6 US quarts. at the last service (~45k miles) i mentioned this to the mechanic who took a look around and could not find any signs of leaks. since then i have put in 5-6 quarts of oil, one quart at a time when the check oil warning come on, usually after or during a long road trip and I just took it in for its 60k service ( since i was late on the 40k, and because i was living a stereotype by having my other car still in the shop, and yes its a jaguar, i decide to wait until 60k for its next service.) The service rep told me he had looked up the technical bulletin and it stated that the v8 phaetons can burn up to 0.2quarts/600miles, and this would be considered normal.
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I have a 2007 passat when I drive it constantly to turn the engine off immediately because the oil is low, it even did this right after having the oil changed. I had the oil pumped changed at the dealer per their recommendation and even after that the car still gave me warnings about low oil every time I drive it. it's to the point now that I am afraid to drive the car. I had the car chipped at 1500 miles there is now 77,000 on it so I've basically had it chipped since new.
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I have an '04 Saab and have been a little concerned about it's corrosive future. In the last year I've noticed many tiny rust specs all over my car. I've always kept up with washing it, especially in Winter but nonetheless the problem seems to be getting worse. What should I do? Is there a shop I should go to to have it coated with a rust treatment or get it painted? Is that sort of thing expensive? Is there a way I could have prevented this?
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So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
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I've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
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My 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
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Today the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
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My Phaeton had the typical burning oil smell so I suspected the Camshaft cover gasket. However when I looked at the service history the gaskets were only just changed in 2012.
When I inspected the car closely I found the RH EGR vacuum line was disconnected (pipe cracked through).
Unlike the Audi A8, the VW 4.2 looks like it has 2 EGR valves, and not one. So I reconnected it, and so far, the burning smell is now gone!!
I am a newbie on the VW 4.2 but is a disconnected EGR a likely cause of oil leaks? (ie positive crankcase pressure). It makes me wonder if all the people whom are changing their cam cover gaskets, should be checking their PCV/EGR's instead??
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I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
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My car smells like some plastic part is burning inside. The heat works just fine but for some reason i am getting this horrible smell. How to get to air filter of the fan.
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Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
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So I've noticed this alarming engine rattle when I first start car as if there is no oil? It only lasts a few seconds! Was it diagnosed with Hyundai? Maybe a quirk of the motor, but seems like over time would cause excessive wear on engine?
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So I use my sunroof pretty regularly and a week ago I opened it to an alarming creaking sound. It opened fine but when I closed it it sits. I called the dealer and even though I only have 20k miles the warranty expired 2 weeks ago. How screwed am I here?
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On Friday (outside temperature 2 degrees), my TPMS started alarming the usual (CHECK TYRE PRESSURE). So I looked at the display and all four "tyres" had an exclamation point. So I took out my $1 tire pressure gauge and all four tires were 44 psi. After re-setting the TPMS, all is back to normal.
I wonder what happened there?
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Been searching but can't find a clue. I replaced my steering gear box. Went fine, but after starting back up. My alarm goes off, my cruise or horn doesn't work and my air bag is giving a code 32.
Is there a ground wire or something I could of missed when installing the gear box?
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Van has 144k miles on it. It's been well maintained (see my other posts). I have had it since new (7 miles). The LIM was done preventively at about 75k miles (5 years ago).
Two to three years ago it started using/leaking etc coolant at a very slow rate. I would estimate somewhere in the 8-10 fl oz per 3-4 month range. As time has gone on it has been progressively using more. Now it is about 12-14 fl oz in about a month or 6 weeks. My "low coolant" indicator came on the other night. It had been a while since I added any coolant mix. 3-4 months anyway. It took about 1/2 gallon (US). There has been no "real" visible leak,up to now. I noticed yesterday when I was under it doing an oil change, that there was a "film" on the bottom of the trans pan. I followed the trail as best I could and it led me to the rear of the engine near the drivers front wheel. It was a small drop of coolant. (I tasted it). Don't try this at home... From the top of the engine looking in, I followed the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing "pipe". It is very difficult to see in there. I took a few pix. [URL] ....
It looks like there is a little pool of coolant sitting near or under the thermostat housing that pools on top of where the transaxle bell housing meets the engine block. It's very hard to to see in the pix. Some of what looks to be damp, is actually shadow. This pool I believe runs down the back of the engine/trans, and then is blown on top the trans pan and undercarriage.
The van runs great, I want to keep it for the next 9 years. There is no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Unless the fix is fairly easy, the leak is still small enough that I am not going to bother with it until it becomes a large leak. The car runs cool even in the hot summer pulling a load. The only issue is the leak and that I have to add coolant every once in a while.
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I have a 2001 Golf with a 2.0L motor. I've had this issue for a while now; the motor burns oil at an unreasonable rate - around a quart every 1200 miles. If I'm at a long traffic light and idling, a lot of white smoke will come out the back when I start moving. I don't notice smoke any other time. Also, the gas mileage is reduced by about 75 miles per tank when it's cold outside.
I have recently replaced:
temperature sensor
thermostat
plugs & wires
cleaned mass airflow sensor
The last mechanic I went to, who I will no longer be using, as he is incompetent, thought the cause for the lost cold weather mileage and burning oil is the PCV valve. A friend thought it would be a worn head gasket. I'm having trouble finding any info on PCV valves for this motor.
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I am throwing a code for long term fuel trim being out of whack (code 17560) and I am trying to determine whether the MAF is causing it.
I pulled several redline runs while logging flow rate in vagcom. According to Ross tech's site they suggest that your flow rate should be around 80% of the engines rated horsepower. So approximately 200 g/s. I did several runs and never broke 100 g/s so what I should be seeing or has run into this code before.
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I just bought a 2010 prius (26k miles..prior collision.. so no warranty) for my wife. The battery drains in just 3 days if left unused. I had Toyota install a new battery. Again 3 days left parked and battery was dead.
I locked myself in and measured the consumption. It drains at the rate of 1.1Amps when parked. That looks very high consumption. I want to measure with SKS turned off, but that's going to be tricky. I believe SKS resets when battery is reconnected.
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So as of late, I've noticed something strange while I accelerate at hwy speeds. I'll try my best to describe. Cruising on the hwy at 68 mph in 6th gear at about 3000 rpm. Without downshifting, I press on the accelerator to speed up and the tach (and subsequent engine noise) seems to outpace the actual rate of acceleration.
The tack needle about a second or 2 after pressing the gas pedal moves quickly to about 3300 rpm and then settles down to 3100 rpm.After that acceleration seems normal.I tried it again and same result happened.Later I was on surface streets and tried the same thing but at a lower speed and gear. It seemed to produce a similar result.
My question is, what the heck could be causing this? Clutch starting to go? Car has only 17800 miles. I have a UM Stage 1 tune w/ CTS Turbo intake that has been on for the last 3000 miles. Give or take. I remember burning the clutch 2 times in the past. I don't track or do any kind of hoonage with it.
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My mechanic just told me I have one of my six cylinders that has a compression rate of only 25. I am weeping as I continue to pay my car loan. Looking for info, if this can be repaired vs. putting in a replacement engine?
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