I am one of the few that has ADC on my 2004 V10.
Occasionally, 3 times now. I press the ON button and the cruise control does not initialize properly. After a while it will say "Temporarily unavailable" . The problem is that then there is no power any more.
I stop on the hard shoulder of the motorway, engine off, engine on and all is reset, ADC works ok and full power is restored.
My transmission control module has gone bad, resulting in the car being in"limp" mode. I am advised not to drive the car in this condition as it starts out in 3rd and the transmission will be damaged. Thus far, my local dealer has, on a preliminary basis, been advised that there are none of these parts available anywhere in the world according to the computer and VW may have to manufacture one. This does not sound possible. Meanwhile, the dealer says no rental car will be offered so I am contacting VW North America to escalate. It could be up to a month to get a new part. Meanwhile, the car is in the garage just sitting.
View 7 RepliesA few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
I have a 1992 1500K extended cab 4WD with the 5.7L V8 engine (147,000 miles). It has been driving well since I bought it last winter. 2 days ago I took it on a longer road trip and it was doing great. Slowed down to take a 90 degree turn and the transmission suddenly hit "limp home" mode. It felt like it wasn't up-shifting out of 2nd , high RPMs while driving no more than 30mph on flat road. I have the proper amount of fluid and it is still red/pink and does not smell burnt.
Someone suggested that I check the transmission fuse but in looking through the fuse box I can't tell which is the tranny fuse. Also, I can only find one fuse box on my truck. Is there a 2nd?I feel like my next step is to take it to a transmission shop but I want to rule out whatever I can at home. I have zero experience with transmission work and don't want to get scammed into a rebuild if I don't need one. The transmission was working fine up until 2 days ago. No slipping, no hard shifting, and no noise...
Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
Happened once or twice where I tried to back up a hill and the car went into limp mode. Neither the dealer nor my mechanic could replicate it.
View 5 RepliesJust as the title says, is there any word on getting Adaptive Cruise with the Driver Assistance package? In all the literature I've seen the DA pack for US models only confirm collision warnings and rear parking sensors.
View 24 RepliesJust installed a debadged grill on my 08 Passat VR6 from ECS tuning. I didn't realize that the radar for the adaptive cruise was right behind the VW emblem on the original grill. The ACC still works but not like it should...seems like it works normally sometime and sometimes doesn't. Any solution besides putting the old grill back on??? I wouldn't think the few spokes in the badgeless one would affect the radar since the emblem used to be in front of it. My Park Assist sensors are not functioning properly either but I think I can resolve that issue by adjusting there location a bit...
View 4 RepliesMy previous cars with adaptive cruise control didn't do this, but when the vehicle brakes itself, there is a very loud click. I'm assuming it's normal operation, but figured I'd ask here anyways.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius and it will be my first car once I get my license. It has a bad traction control computer and is stuck in limp mode. I have a neighbor who has worked on these and will show me how to replace it. Right now I have two questions. I keep coming up with how to disable it not the actual part.
View 1 RepliesVery very odd thing happened. Driving up from Houston to Colorado yesterday. Snow tires mounted in preparation for the snow in NM and CO. Around 300 mi into the trip, the CEL (check engine light) came on. I was on cruise control, I did not notice the lack of power. Checking the battery, it was in the purple. I first opened the gas cap and screwed it back in. I figured the change in elevation or temperature may have had something to do with the CEL. Nothing. Gas tank was a quarter full.
At Lubbock, I pulled over and filled up. I played with the rubber gasket on the gas cap but decided it was going to be more trouble than I was prepared to deal with, without any tools. CEL stayed on for another 30minutes or so while I navigated through the city, covering another 20 miles or so. After a pitstop to pick up OJ, I started the car and the CEL was off.
Here are the variables:
Elevation delta - +3000 ft
Temp delta - -10F
The only thing I can think of is that the hybrid battery is getting long in the tooth (2008 MY, 103k mi), the wind in the high plains chewed through the battery power, and the long length of being in low charge got the ECU to confuse itself into thinking that the hybrid battery has bad cells, which it probably has a few weak cells.
Just to save you all some time.... If your car goes into limp mode, and/or cruise stops working, and the EPC light comes on..... We had over a week of downtime and hundreds of $ out to find out that the literally brake light switch broke - its apparently flimsy and triggers all kinds of electrical faults..
View 1 RepliesJust set off on a day out, got about 3 miles and the cars gone into limp mode (running smoothly but no power) with the glow plug light flashing. I got back to the caravan so we weren't stuck at the side of the road and tried restarting it. It starts off for about a minute before coming back on. I've noticed that revving it in neutral the revs linger for a second our so after taking my foot off as if its not recognizing that the throttle position has changed.
View 21 RepliesMy friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
View 5 RepliesI just bought a 2004 Phaeton V8. So far, it's great.
But I'm having trouble with programming the Homelink garage door opener. The instructions in the manual are the same as other cars I've owned - hold down buttons 1 & 3 until the light blinks, then press the button you want to program while also using the remote you want the car to learn. But when I press 1 & 3, no light begins blinking - I can't even find the light on the panel!
Today the roads were slushy. On my drive to work a strange parking brake fault happened twice. Each time I was driving at highway speeds, not engaging the parking brake. In each case, the parking brake fault light came on, and the car seemed to go into some kind of "limp home" mode: the car would not accelerate or upshift, although it appeared to be willing to maintain around 40mph or very mildly accelerate from 0-20 mph if I stopped all the way. This was not because the parking brake engaged itself and was slowing the car - the car still coasted freely. It was clearly because the computer was limiting the car's power/speed severely. In the first case, I think it came on when I was beginning to apply the regular brakes to slow down gradually for a light; and in the second I was not using the brakes at all but did hit a puddle of slush. In both cases, it's possible the traction control kicked in, although I did not see that indicator light flash. The ABS did not get used based on sound and pedal feel in the first place, and because I wasn't engaging the brakes at all in the second case.
In each case, I was able to pull off the road, shut off the engine/car entirely, and then restart the car to clear the fault and turn off the light. The car drove totally normally from there, as if nothing had ever been wrong. There was around two hours including 90 minutes of being parked in my garage between the two events. I've never had any parking brake malfunction of any kind before with this car. So now I'm wondering when this will happen again. This does not appear to be the common problem of the parking brake button, since it never involved actually applying or releasing the parking brake and never involved me touching the button. I don't like having to quickly go from the left lane of a freeway all the way to the right lane or shoulder when my car suddenly decides to slow down for no obvious reason.
My vehicle shows currently two awkward behaviors:
1) I can start the vehicle using the keyless start button without having to step on the brake pedal.
2) I can switch on cruise control. The green symbol appears, however, I cannot set a speed. The system simply seems to ignore that I press the set button.
So the problem occurs while I am driving with cruise control on . Suppose I am driving at the speed of 80mph with 1300rpm, few seconds after I come downhill the rpm shifts to 2000 and comes back to 1300. Now I understand that the rpm will increase as I go up in order to maintain the speed but this problem occurs once I come downhill
And today also while driving without cruise control on I experienced the similar problem. I got a SE V6.
About 2 months ago, I was driving and my cruise control wouldn't engage on the highway ... I happened to be right near the dealership so I immediately returned there .... didn't turn off the car, but the tech put it in P while I was waiting. I was so ticked off because I thought that may have 'reset' things, and of course when the tech took the car for a drive (in D) the cruise worked fine. We of course never confirmed that the cruise control didn't work.
Today, the same thing happened at the same place, so I returned to the dealership, calling them on the phone, and informing them that I would not turn the car off, or allow the car to be put in park. The service manager met me out front and we went for a quick ride so I could 'prove' that the cruise was inoperative. He confirmed that it was not working, and why. For some reason, I glanced at the dashboard and noticed that the car was in 'B' mode. I mentioned that to the manager and he noted it as well. I must have bumped it somehow while driving as I NEVER use B mode for anything ... ever. I said I wondered if that was the reason, and put it in D, and lo and behold, the cruise worked again.
I haven't checked the manual yet to see if this is stated there, but the cruise control is inoperative if the car is in B mode. Or at least it seems that that is the case. Other than the car being in B mode, it acted just like it always does, and since I was on the highway, I never noticed the braking effect that B mode gives you.
I own a 2013 C-Max hybrid and I notice that during long drives if i engage the cruise control, I don't get as many EV miles as I do when I have my foot on the gas pedal and take it off when i have reached my desired speed. Does EV mode not work in cruise control? My feet start to ache a bit with constantly having to press and release the gas pedal just so that I can generate some EV miles.
View 3 RepliesWe have 2 trips coming up this summer (600 miles and 1400 miles), these will be my first long distance with the Prius.
Did anyone tested fuel economy using the cruise control in ECO vs NORMAL vs PWR ?